Corza's 2.3L Evo 8 motor into Evo 6 build thread
Mar 10, 2013, 08:36 PM
#61
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ive been following this build here and over on the evo oz page and you sir have done an amazing job..
im interested in this RS Kit. Can you tell me more about it please
im interested in this RS Kit. Can you tell me more about it please
May 9, 2014, 05:43 PM
#62
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Been a long time since an update in here.
Car now looks like this.
One of the only shots from the weekend with the new wheels.
<img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1470185_731694566860517_2105455670_n.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />
Late last year as I mentioned earlier in the thread, Benny tuned the car and made 328kws @ 30psi. The tune was not 100% finished. The spark was breaking down and we were actually running out of fuel that night haha! I went away and he made some recommendations to get a COP kit on the car and a new turbo actuator to help with the spool.
I made my own COP kit using the Toyota yaris coils and my own plate. That seems to be a great little mod. Seems much smoother up top with that in. I installed a Turbosmart actuator on the turbo and also changed my turbo drain. There was a slight leak of oil out the turbo V band clamp so I emailed FP turbos about it. They highlighted two things, one, the turbo drain I had was also a braided item I made but had a straight fitting off the sump, so I changed that to a 45 degree as it is gravity fed back to the sump, second, my catch can was routed back to the intake to suck the fumes back through. FP said that if it vents to atmosphere (which was the way I had it setup) the vapours can find a path of least resistance and sometimes this can be out of the turbo seals. This issue seems to be fixed after those two items were addressed.
I havent been able to really drive it since then as it needs a tune for the new actuator, but I have driven it without boosting it. The last item to fix up was my fuel pump overheating issue. I have had many dramas with the fuel system. It has been a recurring issue. I have definitely fixed all the major ones, but the final was the bosch pumps constantly running at 100% even at idle, heating the fuel up, then getting very loud and you could hear the fuel "bubbling" away in the surge tank. I knew I needed to do something. I looked into a new fuel pump that was "smarter" but the stock ecu could not provide the signal needed, luckily Aeromotive make a fuel pump speed controller that works with the bosch pumps. This seems to work a treat! It grabs a signal off the tacho and you set it to where you want it to start running the pump at 100%. So now on idle it runs enough to keep the car going, but will not overheat the fuel. It also increases voltage as rpm rises until it hits the rpm where you have set it to run at 100%. For example I have it set to run at 100% at 3000rpm, so at say 2500rpm it will run at say 70% flow. Also the second bosch pump I have now turns on at 10psi boost as I wired in a hobbs switch to it. The car should have enough fuel to keep the AFRs in check!
Now the fuel system is sorted, it gets tuned tomorrow again and also having some dyno time Saturday to fine tune anything. The car will get an SD tune, I modified my intake pipe to get rid of the AFM. Fingers crossed it all goes well, but I don't think the motor or setup has ever been stronger. Might see if 32psi is safe on it and leave it at that. I also recently clicked over 5000kms on the 2.3L motor.
On another note I have another rear RS diff coming from the US to put under my car. It will be rebuilt with new bearings and tightened up. I will then swap out my current RS diff and have been working on a new designed mustache bar for it. I'm just doing this to keep downtime to a minimum and will sell my current RS diff once the new one is in and I will also have it rebuilt again. So if anyone is looking for an RS diff hit me up, I will have it out of the car in maybe 4-8 weeks time.
There has been no issues with the current mustache bar design, however as with many products, there are haters and people who think they know more than guys who actually put in the time to understand how everything works. This will be the third revision we have made. It has a half tube through it for strength and crush tubes where the bolts go. It won't be released for sometime but there will be two cars running this design in a few weeks time. So this design should stop people questioning strength of the product. The current bar design has around ten evos in Aus running it, but I felt it necessary to stay one step ahead.
Tune has been done and the car drives very well now. The difference with the speed density tune is unreal. Very smooth compared to with the AFM in place. Yesterday we started the tune on the road, Ben got all the drivablity stuff out of the way, making 274kw@24psi in the process.
Last Saturday it went on the dyno and the boost and timing were played with, getting a final result of 310kws@30psi. This is all on the UNited 100 octance fuel. It rips much harder now thanks to the actuator and the aeromotive fuel pump speed controller has kept the fuel nice and cool.
Short video of the car on the dyno from Saturday.
New mustache bar was picked up today. We have been making these in Australia for some time now.
Also the new RS diff for the car. Nothing wrong with the one in their now but this one will be rebuilt with new bearings for peice of mind. I bought it for stock, but no buyers for it so may as well use it in my car then sell the current on I have.
Overall I couldn't be happier. Now I can move on from tinkering with with motor.
Graph from the weekend
Car now looks like this.
One of the only shots from the weekend with the new wheels.
<img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1470185_731694566860517_2105455670_n.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" />
Late last year as I mentioned earlier in the thread, Benny tuned the car and made 328kws @ 30psi. The tune was not 100% finished. The spark was breaking down and we were actually running out of fuel that night haha! I went away and he made some recommendations to get a COP kit on the car and a new turbo actuator to help with the spool.
I made my own COP kit using the Toyota yaris coils and my own plate. That seems to be a great little mod. Seems much smoother up top with that in. I installed a Turbosmart actuator on the turbo and also changed my turbo drain. There was a slight leak of oil out the turbo V band clamp so I emailed FP turbos about it. They highlighted two things, one, the turbo drain I had was also a braided item I made but had a straight fitting off the sump, so I changed that to a 45 degree as it is gravity fed back to the sump, second, my catch can was routed back to the intake to suck the fumes back through. FP said that if it vents to atmosphere (which was the way I had it setup) the vapours can find a path of least resistance and sometimes this can be out of the turbo seals. This issue seems to be fixed after those two items were addressed.
I havent been able to really drive it since then as it needs a tune for the new actuator, but I have driven it without boosting it. The last item to fix up was my fuel pump overheating issue. I have had many dramas with the fuel system. It has been a recurring issue. I have definitely fixed all the major ones, but the final was the bosch pumps constantly running at 100% even at idle, heating the fuel up, then getting very loud and you could hear the fuel "bubbling" away in the surge tank. I knew I needed to do something. I looked into a new fuel pump that was "smarter" but the stock ecu could not provide the signal needed, luckily Aeromotive make a fuel pump speed controller that works with the bosch pumps. This seems to work a treat! It grabs a signal off the tacho and you set it to where you want it to start running the pump at 100%. So now on idle it runs enough to keep the car going, but will not overheat the fuel. It also increases voltage as rpm rises until it hits the rpm where you have set it to run at 100%. For example I have it set to run at 100% at 3000rpm, so at say 2500rpm it will run at say 70% flow. Also the second bosch pump I have now turns on at 10psi boost as I wired in a hobbs switch to it. The car should have enough fuel to keep the AFRs in check!
Now the fuel system is sorted, it gets tuned tomorrow again and also having some dyno time Saturday to fine tune anything. The car will get an SD tune, I modified my intake pipe to get rid of the AFM. Fingers crossed it all goes well, but I don't think the motor or setup has ever been stronger. Might see if 32psi is safe on it and leave it at that. I also recently clicked over 5000kms on the 2.3L motor.
On another note I have another rear RS diff coming from the US to put under my car. It will be rebuilt with new bearings and tightened up. I will then swap out my current RS diff and have been working on a new designed mustache bar for it. I'm just doing this to keep downtime to a minimum and will sell my current RS diff once the new one is in and I will also have it rebuilt again. So if anyone is looking for an RS diff hit me up, I will have it out of the car in maybe 4-8 weeks time.
There has been no issues with the current mustache bar design, however as with many products, there are haters and people who think they know more than guys who actually put in the time to understand how everything works. This will be the third revision we have made. It has a half tube through it for strength and crush tubes where the bolts go. It won't be released for sometime but there will be two cars running this design in a few weeks time. So this design should stop people questioning strength of the product. The current bar design has around ten evos in Aus running it, but I felt it necessary to stay one step ahead.
Tune has been done and the car drives very well now. The difference with the speed density tune is unreal. Very smooth compared to with the AFM in place. Yesterday we started the tune on the road, Ben got all the drivablity stuff out of the way, making 274kw@24psi in the process.
Last Saturday it went on the dyno and the boost and timing were played with, getting a final result of 310kws@30psi. This is all on the UNited 100 octance fuel. It rips much harder now thanks to the actuator and the aeromotive fuel pump speed controller has kept the fuel nice and cool.
Short video of the car on the dyno from Saturday.
New mustache bar was picked up today. We have been making these in Australia for some time now.
Also the new RS diff for the car. Nothing wrong with the one in their now but this one will be rebuilt with new bearings for peice of mind. I bought it for stock, but no buyers for it so may as well use it in my car then sell the current on I have.
Overall I couldn't be happier. Now I can move on from tinkering with with motor.
Graph from the weekend
May 9, 2014, 09:04 PM
#63
Evolved Member
What modifications did you have to do to those engine mounts to make them fit the cp9a chassis?
At a guess a little bit of machining but curious on the exact mods.
At a guess a little bit of machining but curious on the exact mods.
Jun 18, 2015, 11:39 PM
#65
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Few different posts coming from last few months
Been a tough year on this car. It was running really well for ages, then I decided I would do a track day and a bolt came loose, fell behind the idler pulley, timing belt exploded and all 16 valves needed repalcing. Luckily the bottom end lived on!!
Had a few minutes before a meeting so thought I would update this.
At the first track day in a long time for the car, it decided it wanted to have some time off the road and broke. A small bolt that holds the cover behind the cam gear has come out and then fallen behind the tensioner pulley, binding it up and consequently the timing belt has gave way. It was a mess. In the end all 16 valves needed replacing. Head came off and I took it back to JHH for repair and it is now fixed. Should pick it up next week. Oversized valves aren't cheap unfortunately either. Luckily for me nothing else was broken in the head. While I am here the lifters will be replaced to evo 9 OEM items and the rockers will be changed from evo 6 to evo 8 items as well. The bottom end all looks ok too. Accusump did its job when the motor failed and emptied its 3L of oil into the motor to keep the bearings all lubed. Hopefully no issues surface down there once its back together.
I should say on the day the car felt very strong before that. Rob (ROBB0E) had done a great job on the wheel alignment with nothing but grip. Very disappointing to go home on a tow truck.
I am going to change a few things on the catch can setup, mainly routing the lines to back where the PCV valve was originally. My power steering can has a small leak so I will take that out and weld up again re powdercoat etc.
What it looked like
Inside
Bolt from cover. Been there five years. You can see where the pulley was rubbing on it.
Other pulley was blown apart
Will take me the next few weeks to get it all sorted, but that's life!
Been a tough year on this car. It was running really well for ages, then I decided I would do a track day and a bolt came loose, fell behind the idler pulley, timing belt exploded and all 16 valves needed repalcing. Luckily the bottom end lived on!!
Had a few minutes before a meeting so thought I would update this.
At the first track day in a long time for the car, it decided it wanted to have some time off the road and broke. A small bolt that holds the cover behind the cam gear has come out and then fallen behind the tensioner pulley, binding it up and consequently the timing belt has gave way. It was a mess. In the end all 16 valves needed replacing. Head came off and I took it back to JHH for repair and it is now fixed. Should pick it up next week. Oversized valves aren't cheap unfortunately either. Luckily for me nothing else was broken in the head. While I am here the lifters will be replaced to evo 9 OEM items and the rockers will be changed from evo 6 to evo 8 items as well. The bottom end all looks ok too. Accusump did its job when the motor failed and emptied its 3L of oil into the motor to keep the bearings all lubed. Hopefully no issues surface down there once its back together.
I should say on the day the car felt very strong before that. Rob (ROBB0E) had done a great job on the wheel alignment with nothing but grip. Very disappointing to go home on a tow truck.
I am going to change a few things on the catch can setup, mainly routing the lines to back where the PCV valve was originally. My power steering can has a small leak so I will take that out and weld up again re powdercoat etc.
What it looked like
Inside
Bolt from cover. Been there five years. You can see where the pulley was rubbing on it.
Other pulley was blown apart
Will take me the next few weeks to get it all sorted, but that's life!
Jun 18, 2015, 11:42 PM
#66
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Old setup had:
10An from inlet and exhaust camshaft sides of rocker cover
8AN from the catch can to the intake.
Problems: It worked fine on the street, driving around with the odd pull here and there, I would get a small amount of fluid in the can but right hand corners when pushing out around roundabouts or at the track it would fill. So after talking with people and looking around the net, I decided to change to a 12AN from can to intake to really let it breathe, as two 10AN hoses coming in were then trying to get out an 8AN. This seemed to help a bit and I was pretty happy with it. But then before the last trackday I took the line off the inlet side and you could see the oil pooled in the fitting. So it was clear that this was filling the can. The exhaust side was nice and dry. So I plugged it for the day and then the car broke.
That side of the cover lets oil through because of the baffling inside (here is a pic) left hand side is inlet side and you can see there is a slot from factory there just near the fitting.
So now I have the following
10AN from where PCV valve was, with an aeroflow check valve in the line.
10AN from exhaust camshaft side of rocker cover.
12AN from catch can to intake.
Hopefully this solves my issues. I know some people have modified the baffles to stop oil going out the inlet side at the end, but they would have to explain it.
I took the car for a 40km drive today and it felt good. Gave it a nice wash too and she is clean.
Last edited by CORZA; Jun 18, 2015 at 11:46 PM.
Jun 18, 2015, 11:44 PM
#67
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Added evo rear garnishes. Always liked the look and finally took the plunge. Happy with how they turned out, but cutting the boot was not fun. Requires commitment haha!!
Jun 18, 2015, 11:45 PM
#68
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Put on a Zakelcorp clear cam cover to finish up the bay. Now just needs another good clean as there it is still dirty from a skid pan day I did late last year in some spots.
And a really Beauty 
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