wow nice really good post with alot of info looks like your build is headed in the right direction

 

Subscribed... Im gonna have to do more research on the Evo X LCA swap. That looks like it will save the hassle of "What wheel combo will fit my evo thread" hahaha

Good stuff man...

 

^^^This...EvoX LCA swap sounds like a great idea...


Also, reasoning behind that gear setup you picked for your trans??

 

wow looks great! Lots of love and time put into this evo.

 

This is just awesome. Cant wait to see results for the 7064 or 7670 both seem like they will be an excellent choice.

 

definitely agree ernie - I almost ordered the ams delrin ones, but this robispec spherical is just such a nice part I couldnt resist. The evox lca will not improve brake caliper clearance - it still uses the evo8/9 steering knuckle upright and evo 8/9 hub. I am hoping to fit my 18x10.5 +15 however if that is just too much the ARK designs 18x9.5 +22 will stay. Ill know on friday once i have some time to work on the car again. all these darn customers are keeping me from doing what actually matters

you may not realize it, but the stock evo is loaded with multiple rubber encapsulated sphericals bearings already, as well as some really soft rubber bushings (trailing arm and front LCA). These get worn over time and then you really get harshness in the ride quality! As long as you use high-quality spherical bearings that does not have "slop" in them, there is very little noise/vibrations/harshness and the ride quality improves substantially. For example the rear lower shock mount is often "pounded out" by aftermarket stiffly sprung coilovers, and most people do not replace them. it is a source of much ride harshness once it is worn

Cool to hear you are on the same track, you can just press out the PSRS to use evoX front lca's later on. btw the IX rack is the same, just newer!

give him a call at Robispec, very knowledgeable and easy to talk to!!

when a factory assembles a modern unibody car, they use a combination of seam-glue and spot welds to hold all the different pieces of sheet metal together. The spot welds + glue is cheap, holds the chassis panels together for a long time, and allows those panels to flex and move around a little bit without stressing the metal and causing cracks over time.

However - In a high performance application, the engine/driveline are putting so much energy thru the chassis that it's actually twisting the chassis into what is called "Chassis Bind". This is something that is easily apparent with an experienced driver on a race track - you can actually feel the chassis twisting. On a public road with an average driver it happens often but you might not notice it much. A great way to feel this while driving most crappy cars or trucks is to put your fingers between the door and the roof line, you can feel the gap getting bigger and smaller as you hit bumps or take turns.

By stitch welding all the panels, the seams are actually welded together so all three attachments work together to stiffen the entire structure up substantially. Also - where the rear suspension components attach to the chassis these are very poor spot welds known to pull away from the frame. Going over them with stitch welds makes everything underneath more rigid.


thanks for the props - i like your screen name, check out the R34 GT-R builds we just finished:






YES this is honestly going to be my daily driver. I will drive this car every day in arizona, for many years to come. My other cars are just too crazy, or too boring for daily-duty

there is not much more info you can find on the LCA swap, im pretty sure this thread is about it but if there are any new threads LMK

Give Jon@TRE a call for gearing recommendations, i just told him what size tire i will run - 275-35-18 and what i will rev my engine to (2.0L so 8500+rpm) and he works the magic

 

Good to know I'm not the only guy who built that same tool mid-teardown. Lots of cool stuff going on for sure - in for updates!

 

Looks like an interesting build so far, can't wait for updates..you going to do exterior work as-well or just engine?

 

cant wait to see how this turns out!! love the rr

 

Interested to see more updates. Really looking forward to the new BW turbo. May have to stop by your shop, I am local.

 

Cool thanks for the info. Im debating putting mine up on the rack here in the near future to finish the rest of the car setup in it. Might as well stitch it up. Are you making this more of a twisty setup or a straight line setup? By the rims and tires im assuming a twisty setup.

 

Arizona desert roads are straight epic as they head up into the mountains. Living out here you can go 1 hour in either direction and if youknow where to look and go at the right time of day you can find completely desolate roads like this:




and:



of course you have to be responsible/intelligent and dont push if alone but really makes the drag strip seem meh. it might go to the drag strip once or twice a year at most, but its really intended to be my daily driver. I am not out to set dyno records or quarter mile records, and definitely dont need more material for my sig

i have no idea what i will do to the exterior, i really dont want the car to be too flashy



heres 3 more RR evo's i found lookin on evom that i like:

 

Geoff, for exterior if you don't have this yet, do a front lip, side skirt extensions and rear lip if you want? Maybe even do a nose chop?

Just like the last RR Evo you posted!

 

what is a nose chop, removing the mitsu emblem? i have a scrap bumper i can try that on. which non-flashy oe looking front lip/rear lip and side skirt extensions do you recommend?

 

You going wingless, Geoff?

I drove w/out my wing for a couple of weeks last year, and even with a rear diffuser on the car, it got a little more squirrely than I liked (3rd gear pulls @ ~450whp). No such issues once I put the wing back on after it came back from the paint shop.

l8r)