R/TErnie's Evo 9 2.2L 4G64 EFR7670
May 10, 2012, 09:52 PM
#346
Update!
I routed the coolant lines the proper way. Checked to make sure the inlet is going in the bottom and the outlet is going out the top! Kind of important right?
Oil cooler -8 Lines made and routed.
Here's the intake I made w/out any brackets and a rough locate.
Here's where the filter sits... and I turned the wheel full lock to see how much room I have... NOT MUCH. This is a picture of before moving.
Awesome.... I found some pre-welded in nuts for bolting my intake to the chassis! I have two too! As it turns out I cut the bracket I made the wrong way so I ended up using the OTHER bolt hole shown here, AND it fit perfectly. I got lucky.
This is what I started with (it's not what I used for aluminum!) But I used a rubber grommet that came off the fuel system hardlines or the ACD hardlines....or something else that I removed. I kept the little rubber isolator and I'm stoked I did. Turned out nice in the end.
Version 2 for placement of air filter. You can see I have a bit more room. It gets better later!
2 pictures of the bracket. I rolled 2 beads down the length of the bracket to improve it's stiffness. IIRC this was .080" 6061. Much thinner (and matches the grommet/isolator better) than the original .125" aluminum stock. And lighter :P
welded on.
Intake picture with bracket on it.
Intake installed and bolted in place. Great success.
Bling!
Placed the driver's side wastegate flange...did a lot of porting to make it nice. Backpurged it and layed down a fatty bead.
Here's the progress I have for today. Somewhat lackluster compared to the amount of time I spent looking at this. Note the area made for the LICP to go around the dumptube and clear the front cross member. That was the whole point of all this crap and routing it on this side.
Front shot shows how things are roughly laid out.
The area between the dumptube and the downpipe will be where the 2nd dumptube goes.
I backpurged and welded the start of the downpipe. I may put a v-band in there somewhere so I can remove the downpipe from the car. It's quite a pain to get it in there now in 1 piece. It will only get worse as REAL parts start filling voids.
You can see the room I made for the LICP really well here.
Random shot of how the downpipe clears the P/S pump. Lots of room for a heat shield there.
You can see my lone wideband o2 sensor back there. My FMM fell over
and you can see how level and square the downpipe is. Nice work Ernie. Why thank you! I might put my flex pipe under the oil pan segment as it appears I have the room. Thank you AMS for making a pan with more clearance for my bigger downpipe!
Here's a shot of the front cross member. I thought my way was cooler. The foam on the ground is what I use for spacing stuff from time to time. they're the foam inserts that come in TiAL boxes.
3" on left, 3.5" on right.
who has room for 11's? I do! I do! Maybe I'll make another set that gives more clearance to fit 11.5's? After I make my set of lateral links.
My mustache bar that I made. .065 Moly 1" tubing and uses OEM bushings. So it's uber light weight and doesn't kill my NVH. Win WIN WIN!
Here lies my garden instruments and the Titanium sheet I got. w00t!
I would also like to wish the WWU FSAE team luck. They're at competition right now and I hope they do well...and of course beat UW and WSU for good measure! I'm going to eat some brownies and go to bed.
I routed the coolant lines the proper way. Checked to make sure the inlet is going in the bottom and the outlet is going out the top! Kind of important right?
Oil cooler -8 Lines made and routed.
Here's the intake I made w/out any brackets and a rough locate.
Here's where the filter sits... and I turned the wheel full lock to see how much room I have... NOT MUCH. This is a picture of before moving.
Awesome.... I found some pre-welded in nuts for bolting my intake to the chassis! I have two too! As it turns out I cut the bracket I made the wrong way so I ended up using the OTHER bolt hole shown here, AND it fit perfectly. I got lucky.
This is what I started with (it's not what I used for aluminum!) But I used a rubber grommet that came off the fuel system hardlines or the ACD hardlines....or something else that I removed. I kept the little rubber isolator and I'm stoked I did. Turned out nice in the end.
Version 2 for placement of air filter. You can see I have a bit more room. It gets better later!
2 pictures of the bracket. I rolled 2 beads down the length of the bracket to improve it's stiffness. IIRC this was .080" 6061. Much thinner (and matches the grommet/isolator better) than the original .125" aluminum stock. And lighter :P
welded on.
Intake picture with bracket on it.
Intake installed and bolted in place. Great success.
Bling!
Placed the driver's side wastegate flange...did a lot of porting to make it nice. Backpurged it and layed down a fatty bead.
Here's the progress I have for today. Somewhat lackluster compared to the amount of time I spent looking at this. Note the area made for the LICP to go around the dumptube and clear the front cross member. That was the whole point of all this crap and routing it on this side.
Front shot shows how things are roughly laid out.
The area between the dumptube and the downpipe will be where the 2nd dumptube goes.
I backpurged and welded the start of the downpipe. I may put a v-band in there somewhere so I can remove the downpipe from the car. It's quite a pain to get it in there now in 1 piece. It will only get worse as REAL parts start filling voids.
You can see the room I made for the LICP really well here.
Random shot of how the downpipe clears the P/S pump. Lots of room for a heat shield there.
You can see my lone wideband o2 sensor back there. My FMM fell over
and you can see how level and square the downpipe is. Nice work Ernie. Why thank you! I might put my flex pipe under the oil pan segment as it appears I have the room. Thank you AMS for making a pan with more clearance for my bigger downpipe!Here's a shot of the front cross member. I thought my way was cooler. The foam on the ground is what I use for spacing stuff from time to time. they're the foam inserts that come in TiAL boxes.
3" on left, 3.5" on right.
who has room for 11's? I do! I do! Maybe I'll make another set that gives more clearance to fit 11.5's? After I make my set of lateral links.
My mustache bar that I made. .065 Moly 1" tubing and uses OEM bushings. So it's uber light weight and doesn't kill my NVH. Win WIN WIN!
Here lies my garden instruments and the Titanium sheet I got. w00t!
I would also like to wish the WWU FSAE team luck. They're at competition right now and I hope they do well...and of course beat UW and WSU for good measure! I'm going to eat some brownies and go to bed.
Last edited by R/TErnie; May 11, 2012 at 07:23 AM.
May 10, 2012, 11:19 PM
#348
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just read back a couple of pages must be snug down in there with 2 gates you must have put some thought into it. Ive got a top mounted 3540 but got a radiator made that fits between the cross members
must be snug down in there with 2 gates you must have put some thought into it. Ive got a top mounted 3540 but got a radiator made that fits between the cross members
May 11, 2012, 07:04 AM
#354
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Are you gonna do open dump on the wastegates? I might actually work on my car tomorrow, one of this years projects might be recirculating the wastegate so I can run my car on Monday or Tuesday at Pacific. With open dump it is too loud/awesome for those days.
May 11, 2012, 11:26 AM
#360
I do know this... when drag racing, loud cars mess with your head and your timing. If my car is louder... then I don't hear their cars, and I can focus. If their car is louder than mine, then I have a problem. Solution? Make it REAL loud.
Launch Control + gear cut = deaf people at the track.
I think with 600whp it'll be acceptable to be unreasonably loud. It's not like it's a 175whp Neon right?
Launch Control + gear cut = deaf people at the track.
I think with 600whp it'll be acceptable to be unreasonably loud. It's not like it's a 175whp Neon right?
Last edited by R/TErnie; May 11, 2012 at 04:04 PM.