killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

im beginning to think i need to move out to WA....just so i can be your friend.

zertek2k

Loving this build!

Dont spose you want to knock me up one of those dump pipes and send it over to Aus do you?

94AWDcoupe

iTrader: (125)

you are an amazing fabricator/welder. really looking forward to the results this setup produces.

Pirana

iTrader: (43)

Hell, the intercooler, manifold, engine!!

Spec-Ops1

iTrader: (38)

Looking good buddy, and was good talking with you this weekend! Hope Gigi is doine good and the Stig Fetus is doing good as well! I will get back to you about our conversation, I have been super busy lately as I found an issue with the car I need to get it sorted...

nollij

iTrader: (21)

If you are going to get a Lithium battery, then why mount it in the trunk if it is so light? If you leave it in the stock location, you save a couple pounds of wiring and the hassle of doing the wiring.

FathouseFab

iTrader: (5)

Very nice fab work!!

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

It's still 5 pounds on the worst corner of the car... I will move anything I can off the LF corner or make it lighter.

Without going into a terrible amount of detail. Tires generate more relative grip when they're less loaded. (Grip increases at a decreasing rate as you increase the normal force on the tire) Normal force is comprised of Aero downforce in the z-axis and the weight that is on that particular corner... and don't forget about weight transfer right... it will make your weight on that corner go up. So if I make the load on all 4 tires the same and reduce the load on the fronts... I will increase my front end grip. And if I do that at 5 pounds a whack... I'll eventually get to a reasonable amount of weight on the fronts and I'll be making a lot of grip.

I will be doing some aero on the front of the car. I've got my carbon/aero guy lined up. It will be very nice I think

Thanks for the compliments guys.

Front engine mount is coming well. I took a ton of pictures of the fab process for no particular reason. You'll get to see how I make parts with simple garage tools... no fancy machinery (which I would love to have).

nollij

iTrader: (21)

15' of #2/0AWG THHN conductor will be about 2.5lbs. I don't know if that is the correct sizing of conductor to use but it looks like that is what is running to the starter stock. Voltage drop during starting may be a consideration as well depending on the current draw of the starter but I highly doubt it (just something I would double check).


Pros:

• 5lbs weight off of front driver side corner of the car

Cons

• Time to route/install wiring, makeup terminations, secure/isolate terminals to prevent shorting: ~3 hours
• 2.5lbs extra car weight distributed in the front and passenger side of the car (unless you go down the driver side)
• cost of 15' of wire (if you can buy it in that length)

Personally, does not seem worth it but you may have done everything else to squeeze the performance out of the car (without sacrificing that which you do not want to) and this may be worth the time.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

any more info on this new front bumper support you made? i dont have the ***** to just delete mine...

griceiv

iTrader: (2)

double aught wire is way overkill. I ran 2 AWG and the kit weighed 5lbs, including the tray. Voltage drop is not an issue with the size i used.

I think it's a good idea to relocate the battery to somewhere other than the factory location. A good compromise is to mount the battery to the firewall under the abs unit. There is still a good case for moving it to the trunk though.

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

What Marshall said.

What has not been mentioned yet is mounting it lower in the car to reduce the CoG of the car which is just as important if not more important as the weight balance. The OEM location for the battery is at the top of the shock tower. I think under the passenger seat would be the best location (zero yaw moment, super low cog, located on the right side of the car, and maybe more towards the back.) Only problem with it is that it's not legal for NHRA. So meh.

The cable I'm running will be at the lowest points of the car rather than mounted high in the car, so while I may increase the overall weight, the weight is in the proper place. Not to mention that the gross reduction of weight versus mounting the battery in the OEM location with a mini-battery as before... was about 18pounds. I'll have no more than 10 pounds of weight now, and the majority of that weight will be on the RR corner of the car.

In other cooler news, I think I figured out how I'm going to make my camber and toe links...and I think I've come up with a cool way to make my trailing arm lighter yet.

Chef-j

iTrader: (16)

Amazing!

R/TErnie

iTrader: (32)

I'll take some more pics. I figure that my 24x12x4 FMIC is a good crash structure in lieu of the crash beam and the OEM intercooler.

I saw that CBRE tied each side of the frame railes together with a thin tube. I liked that, but I'll wait until I see how much extra chromoly I have laying around before I start making parts that aren't necessary for the car to drive.

zertek2k

I've got all that covered my turbo is in about the same spot I reckon just need to get a dump made!

Cant wait to see how this all comes together mate your doing an awesome job!