R/TErnie's Evo 9 2.2L 4G64 EFR7670
Mar 23, 2012, 08:37 AM
#18
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Switzerland
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Brilliant setup and great engineering!
This is the master plan of a multipurpose high-end Evo which will work in every discipline:
RoadRacing, Hillclimb, Autox, 1/4mile, road
The only thing I would add if it would be used for road racing or hill climb is a weld-in cage...
This is the master plan of a multipurpose high-end Evo which will work in every discipline:
RoadRacing, Hillclimb, Autox, 1/4mile, road
The only thing I would add if it would be used for road racing or hill climb is a weld-in cage...
Mar 23, 2012, 09:44 AM
#22
During my engine assembly (just have to upload pics) I deleted the balance shafts and put in an 1/16" internal hex pipe plug (NPT) in the oil passage from the main oil galley. I then also put an 1/8" NPT pipe plug in the access hole in the block. You COULD drill these out larger and put a single or 2 -6AN breather ports on the backside of the block. The nice part about this location is it's quite high on the block and it's somewhat baffled by how the balance shaft area is cast into the block.
Emery from STM also puts a 12mm x 1.5 to -6AN fitting on the front of the block in the balance shaft inspection hole and uses it as a breather. As I stated in Emery's build thread it would be more compact if he used a 12mm x 1.5 Banjo fitting to -6AN. Only problem with using this location is that it is very close to the turbocharger and I'll already have several oil and coolant lines running to and from the turbo and gates. I'll wait until I have finished my manifold setup before committing and using this port as a catch can feed line. The more ventilation the better. I kind of look at it like post turbine exhaust sizing... No backpressure is the goal.
Mar 23, 2012, 09:49 AM
#23
Not ideal. The dip stick is IN the sump. You would be blowing oil and pressure out of the crankcase, not keeping the oil in the sump.
During my engine assembly (just have to upload pics) I deleted the balance shafts and put in an 1/16" internal hex pipe plug (NPT) in the oil passage from the main oil galley. I then also put an 1/8" NPT pipe plug in the access hole in the block. You COULD drill these out larger and put a single or 2 -6AN breather ports on the backside of the block. The nice part about this location is it's quite high on the block and it's somewhat baffled by how the balance shaft area is cast into the block.
Emery from STM also puts a 12mm x 1.5 to -6AN fitting on the front of the block in the balance shaft inspection hole and uses it as a breather. As I stated in Emery's build thread it would be more compact if he used a 12mm x 1.5 Banjo fitting to -6AN. Only problem with using this location is that it is very close to the turbocharger and I'll already have several oil and coolant lines running to and from the turbo and gates. I'll wait until I have finished my manifold setup before committing and using this port as a catch can feed line. The more ventilation the better. I kind of look at it like post turbine exhaust sizing... No backpressure is the goal.
During my engine assembly (just have to upload pics) I deleted the balance shafts and put in an 1/16" internal hex pipe plug (NPT) in the oil passage from the main oil galley. I then also put an 1/8" NPT pipe plug in the access hole in the block. You COULD drill these out larger and put a single or 2 -6AN breather ports on the backside of the block. The nice part about this location is it's quite high on the block and it's somewhat baffled by how the balance shaft area is cast into the block.
Emery from STM also puts a 12mm x 1.5 to -6AN fitting on the front of the block in the balance shaft inspection hole and uses it as a breather. As I stated in Emery's build thread it would be more compact if he used a 12mm x 1.5 Banjo fitting to -6AN. Only problem with using this location is that it is very close to the turbocharger and I'll already have several oil and coolant lines running to and from the turbo and gates. I'll wait until I have finished my manifold setup before committing and using this port as a catch can feed line. The more ventilation the better. I kind of look at it like post turbine exhaust sizing... No backpressure is the goal.
Mar 23, 2012, 10:21 AM
#25
Ernie I like your idea of using a 12x1.5 banjo in the hole emery uses the -6 fitting in normally.... One question is the hole in the front of the block for the inspection plug already 12x1.5 already or is that something that will need to be drilled this just seems much larger then I remember it being, thanks for the info and great build!
Mar 23, 2012, 10:36 AM
#26
Originally Posted by n2oiroc
on mine, there is a good amount of room behind the turbo. i have a pair of 90* 1/4npt to -8's im drilling and tapping my block for. ill have 2 -8's from the block to one catch can and 2 -8's from the valve cover to another catch can.
But yes I hope to have lots of room, but I don't think I'll change my manifold design considerably to accomodate the additional breather... I just hope it works out
Originally Posted by uvambo
excellent post Ernie!
Just to be clear on your catch can, are you running your Pvc valve line straight to the can and then on the driver side breather line straight to the can too?
Just to be clear on your catch can, are you running your Pvc valve line straight to the can and then on the driver side breather line straight to the can too?
Originally Posted by stanlsha
Ernie I like your idea of using a 12x1.5 banjo in the hole emery uses the -6 fitting in normally.... One question is the hole in the front of the block for the inspection plug already 12x1.5 already or is that something that will need to be drilled this just seems much larger then I remember it being, thanks for the info and great build!
It's already tapped. From the factory you have a bolt that is threaded into the hole. Simply remove and insert fitting! Remember you'll need an aluminum or copper crush washer to seal. Straight metric/SAE threads seal on the face of the fitting and therefore need a crush washer. If you order from anplumbing I think they have a section dedicated to crush washers etc. You could also use a "stat-o-seal" They use a corrosion resistant elastomer bonded to an aluminum washer.
Titanium Prop Rod IIRC it's .020" wall 5/16" tubing. Thanks Titanium Joe!
Someone asked for more engine bay shots... I need to do a compilations of the different revisions
Last edited by R/TErnie; Mar 23, 2012 at 11:25 AM.
Mar 23, 2012, 10:42 AM
#27
Sounds great man I've been away from my build/ block for a bit as I'm away from school but I now recall the bolt lol I was just thinkin I remember doin that plugs on the back side and they were super small I believe I'll do a -6 w the 12x1.5 banjo in that hole and then run two -10s off the head for my 2.4 as I do not have the dual dynamic seals like you sir lol but the efr's are a nice line of turbos!
Mar 23, 2012, 10:54 AM
#28
So I'll post some more random pictures and thoughts.
Because I love fat tire... the beer and literally. (don't mind that the wheel is mounted on the wrong side)
245/45/17 vs 295/30/18
Steve Iishi's shop in Seattle. The green Supra and R35 are Stu Hagen's cars. I tuned his Supra on v88 Vipec. Sequential Twin 28r...makes 623whp The car is a BEAST. We went down to TX2K12 with it. I had a great time.
Here's a video of it on the dyno. You can skip to 1:15. We left the Racelogic Traction Control on...and we fiddle with it to turn it off for a minute. I'm holding the laptop logging. The guy video taping gets a pretty good shot of the screen. 31psi You can see my ugly mug in the passenger seat of the Supra. That was slightly before my stage VI sunburn.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXZ9zaV5Bx8
Here's when I removed my rear window wiper assembly. Thanks to Jeeves (Evom login) for helping. Thanks to Aaron and Myles at English Racing for finding me and RS rear speaker deck. Thanks to Louis Auto Glass in Bellingham for doing a great job on the tint match and window replacement. These guys are awesome. I use them for all my glass and windshield work. Thanks to the guys at AMS for giving me direction on what car had the right glass (was easy, but I asked...)
I think it weighed like 5-6 pounds. I remember I was disappointed. This is a good reason for you guys to write out the best pound per dollar weight reduction available and start at the top. Don't be stupid like me and make a titanium prop rod to save 187 grams of weight. DUMB!
I don't have a good picture of it completed... but here's one that is close.
Cleaning up the oil passages. By porting and polishing these passages I'll reduce the pressure loss and therefore the amount of work the oil pump has to do to provide oil everywhere. You can see I taped off the rest of the block. I sent it back and had it hot tanked twice... so don't think I left the shavings in there. The radius into the main galley was of particular interest to me since it was SOOO crappy from the factory.
Because I love fat tire... the beer and literally. (don't mind that the wheel is mounted on the wrong side)
245/45/17 vs 295/30/18
Steve Iishi's shop in Seattle. The green Supra and R35 are Stu Hagen's cars. I tuned his Supra on v88 Vipec. Sequential Twin 28r...makes 623whp
The car is a BEAST. We went down to TX2K12 with it. I had a great time. Here's a video of it on the dyno. You can skip to 1:15. We left the Racelogic Traction Control on...and we fiddle with it to turn it off for a minute. I'm holding the laptop logging. The guy video taping gets a pretty good shot of the screen. 31psi
You can see my ugly mug in the passenger seat of the Supra. That was slightly before my stage VI sunburn. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXZ9zaV5Bx8
Here's when I removed my rear window wiper assembly. Thanks to Jeeves (Evom login) for helping. Thanks to Aaron and Myles at English Racing for finding me and RS rear speaker deck. Thanks to Louis Auto Glass in Bellingham for doing a great job on the tint match and window replacement. These guys are awesome. I use them for all my glass and windshield work. Thanks to the guys at AMS for giving me direction on what car had the right glass (was easy, but I asked...)
I think it weighed like 5-6 pounds. I remember I was disappointed. This is a good reason for you guys to write out the best pound per dollar weight reduction available and start at the top. Don't be stupid like me and make a titanium prop rod to save 187 grams of weight. DUMB!
I don't have a good picture of it completed... but here's one that is close.
Cleaning up the oil passages. By porting and polishing these passages I'll reduce the pressure loss and therefore the amount of work the oil pump has to do to provide oil everywhere. You can see I taped off the rest of the block. I sent it back and had it hot tanked twice... so don't think I left the shavings in there. The radius into the main galley was of particular interest to me since it was SOOO crappy from the factory.
Last edited by R/TErnie; Mar 23, 2012 at 01:28 PM.
Mar 23, 2012, 12:01 PM
#30
Be weary of oversizing your AN fitting relative to the NPT adapter it's coming from. The inner diameter (flow orifice) of the fitting may be very small, negating the use of the -8, as the flow area of the -6 would be just as much. Food for thought.
But yes I hope to have lots of room, but I don't think I'll change my manifold design considerably to accomodate the additional breather... I just hope it works out
But yes I hope to have lots of room, but I don't think I'll change my manifold design considerably to accomodate the additional breather... I just hope it works out
i just drilled and tapped my block in the rear. pics are in the crankcase ventilation thread.