razorlab's simple build(s)
#286
Was wondering if you could help me out. I'm installing a surge tank next month and I have a AEM 320lph pump. If I keep the oem pump in the tank, and put that in the surge tank, would that suffice? I figured with the OEM pump feeding the surge tank and the fuel return going to the surge tank, it shouldn't ever go dry, correct?
#288
Did some work on the car today.
I wanted to upgrade my current engine bay fuel feed line (BLAQ OPS line), which was normal rubber fuel line and plastic quick disconnect fittings to a -6AN PTFE braided line and metal fittings.
Turns out all the parts you need to do this are available individually and you don't have to pay some of the crazy prices some sell these for, if you are handy and just want to put it together yourself.
Here is the parts list:
As you can see, parts wise it comes out to $91.94 before shipping. Great price for all the high quality parts.
Here it is all assembled. Note this is showing the optional 1/8" NPT gauge port fitting I added for my fuel pressure sensor. This fitting is NOT needed. (Unless you want a place to put a fuel pressure sensor.)
The filter side that connects to the OEM fuel hard line coming into the engine bay:
Here you can see the Continental Ethanol sensor plumbed into the return line and how the feed line and return line live with each other in the engine bay.
The side that connects to the OEM fuel rail inlet:
You'll notice that in order for the Russell metal quick disconnect fitting to fit, I had to bend back the OEM retaining tab and I also had to grind down the Russell screw fitting so it would clear. This would have to be done on any aftermarket feed line that uses the same fitting.
Also of note, these metal retainer screw type (instead of plastic clips) quick disconnect fittings are a pain in the *** to make sure the metal retainer screw is tightened down when there is little room in the engine bay. Choose your tool wisely!
I also ended up wrapping the part of the feed line that travels past the exhaust manifold with heat wrap.
I wanted to upgrade my current engine bay fuel feed line (BLAQ OPS line), which was normal rubber fuel line and plastic quick disconnect fittings to a -6AN PTFE braided line and metal fittings.
Turns out all the parts you need to do this are available individually and you don't have to pay some of the crazy prices some sell these for, if you are handy and just want to put it together yourself.
Here is the parts list:
Code:
Radium PTFE -6AN Hose Assembly 20.0” - $27.95 Straight -6AN / 90* -6AN JEGS Compact Billet In-Line Fuel Filter #15031 - $27.99 -6AN Male/Female Russell Push-On Fitting #644113 - $18.00 (x2) -6AN to 5/16 Optional: Russell #670343 $15.57 -6AN to 1/8” NPT Gauge Port (I added this for my fuel pressure sensor fitting)
Here it is all assembled. Note this is showing the optional 1/8" NPT gauge port fitting I added for my fuel pressure sensor. This fitting is NOT needed. (Unless you want a place to put a fuel pressure sensor.)
The filter side that connects to the OEM fuel hard line coming into the engine bay:
Here you can see the Continental Ethanol sensor plumbed into the return line and how the feed line and return line live with each other in the engine bay.
The side that connects to the OEM fuel rail inlet:
You'll notice that in order for the Russell metal quick disconnect fitting to fit, I had to bend back the OEM retaining tab and I also had to grind down the Russell screw fitting so it would clear. This would have to be done on any aftermarket feed line that uses the same fitting.
Also of note, these metal retainer screw type (instead of plastic clips) quick disconnect fittings are a pain in the *** to make sure the metal retainer screw is tightened down when there is little room in the engine bay. Choose your tool wisely!
I also ended up wrapping the part of the feed line that travels past the exhaust manifold with heat wrap.
#289
Evolved Member
Did some work on the car today.
I wanted to upgrade my current engine bay fuel feed line (BLAQ OPS line), which was normal rubber fuel line and plastic quick disconnect fittings to a -6AN PTFE braided line and metal fittings.
Turns out all the parts you need to do this are available individually and you don't have to pay some of the crazy prices some sell these for, if you are handy and just want to put it together yourself.
Here is the parts list:
As you can see, parts wise it comes out to $91.94 before shipping. Great price for all the high quality parts.
Here it is all assembled. Note this is showing the optional 1/8" NPT gauge port fitting I added for my fuel pressure sensor. This fitting is NOT needed. (Unless you want a place to put a fuel pressure sensor.)
The filter side that connects to the OEM fuel hard line coming into the engine bay:
Here you can see the Continental Ethanol sensor plumbed into the return line and how the feed line and return line live with each other in the engine bay.
The side that connects to the OEM fuel rail inlet:
You'll notice that in order for the Russell metal quick disconnect fitting to fit, I had to bend back the OEM retaining tab and I also had to grind down the Russell screw fitting so it would clear. This would have to be done on any aftermarket feed line that uses the same fitting.
Also of note, these metal retainer screw type (instead of plastic clips) quick disconnect fittings are a pain in the *** to make sure the metal retainer screw is tightened down when there is little room in the engine bay. Choose your tool wisely!
I also ended up wrapping the part of the feed line that travels past the exhaust manifold with heat wrap.
I wanted to upgrade my current engine bay fuel feed line (BLAQ OPS line), which was normal rubber fuel line and plastic quick disconnect fittings to a -6AN PTFE braided line and metal fittings.
Turns out all the parts you need to do this are available individually and you don't have to pay some of the crazy prices some sell these for, if you are handy and just want to put it together yourself.
Here is the parts list:
Code:
Radium PTFE -6AN Hose Assembly 20.0” - $27.95 Straight -6AN / 90* -6AN JEGS Compact Billet In-Line Fuel Filter #15031 - $27.99 -6AN Male/Female Russell Push-On Fitting #644113 - $18.00 (x2) -6AN to 5/16 Optional: Russell #670343 $15.57 -6AN to 1/8” NPT Gauge Port (I added this for my fuel pressure sensor fitting)
Here it is all assembled. Note this is showing the optional 1/8" NPT gauge port fitting I added for my fuel pressure sensor. This fitting is NOT needed. (Unless you want a place to put a fuel pressure sensor.)
The filter side that connects to the OEM fuel hard line coming into the engine bay:
Here you can see the Continental Ethanol sensor plumbed into the return line and how the feed line and return line live with each other in the engine bay.
The side that connects to the OEM fuel rail inlet:
You'll notice that in order for the Russell metal quick disconnect fitting to fit, I had to bend back the OEM retaining tab and I also had to grind down the Russell screw fitting so it would clear. This would have to be done on any aftermarket feed line that uses the same fitting.
Also of note, these metal retainer screw type (instead of plastic clips) quick disconnect fittings are a pain in the *** to make sure the metal retainer screw is tightened down when there is little room in the engine bay. Choose your tool wisely!
I also ended up wrapping the part of the feed line that travels past the exhaust manifold with heat wrap.
I liked it so much I just ordered your parts list.
I know in tank that the sock and the pump must be E85 safe, but I cannot seem to get a clear picture on what hoses in the tank area need changing for E85. Any pointers on that would be appreciated.
~Jaraxle
Last edited by Jaraxle; Jan 30, 2016 at 11:49 AM. Reason: left out info
#290
Evolving Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: florida
Posts: 104
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Great pictures !!
I understand more when u can see it in pictures ..
That's why I have asked in other post on pictures on where you tapped the FlexFuel sensor into the ECU .. Pictures are great !
I understand more when u can see it in pictures ..
That's why I have asked in other post on pictures on where you tapped the FlexFuel sensor into the ECU .. Pictures are great !
#291
Newbie
iTrader: (1)
Have you installed the Ohlins and mounted the NT03s? I'm wanting a set up similar (if not same) as yours and want to know if there will be any kind of issues without modifying the fenders (roll, pull, etc.).
You are using 265 tires. Would 275 tires fit without fender modifications?
Thanks! Subscribed to your thread!
You are using 265 tires. Would 275 tires fit without fender modifications?
Thanks! Subscribed to your thread!
#292
Have you installed the Ohlins and mounted the NT03s? I'm wanting a set up similar (if not same) as yours and want to know if there will be any kind of issues without modifying the fenders (roll, pull, etc.).
You are using 265 tires. Would 275 tires fit without fender modifications?
Thanks! Subscribed to your thread!
You are using 265 tires. Would 275 tires fit without fender modifications?
Thanks! Subscribed to your thread!
They fit the car just fine, I have not rolled the fenders are there is no rub on the street or the track.
I'm moving to 18x10.5 +30 NT03+M's with 275/35/18 Nitto NT01's so will be having to roll the rear fenders.
#293
Newbie
iTrader: (1)
I have not installed the Ohlins yet but I have been using the 18x9.5 +27 NT03+M's with +5mm front spacer with the 255/35/18 AD08R tires which measure more like a 265.
They fit the car just fine, I have not rolled the fenders are there is no rub on the street or the track.
I'm moving to 18x10.5 +30 NT03+M's with 275/35/18 Nitto NT01's so will be having to roll the rear fenders.
They fit the car just fine, I have not rolled the fenders are there is no rub on the street or the track.
I'm moving to 18x10.5 +30 NT03+M's with 275/35/18 Nitto NT01's so will be having to roll the rear fenders.
Let me know if you are putting up the 9.5s on the market. I'm looking~
edit: oh dang, nevermind, you live all the way on the other side of the country... lol
Last edited by SoloSpeed101; Feb 5, 2016 at 11:41 AM.
#299
Today I rolled my rear fenders to get ready for my set of track wheels/tires.
I found out they hit the coilover spring perch in the front with even a +5mm spacer. So time for +10mm spacers and extended studs
Enkei NT03+M 18x10.5 +30 wheels
Nitto NT01 275/35/18 tires
The NT01's are wide as hell, they are even square, not stretched, on the 10.5 wheel. Which is causing my clearance issues.
Good news is that they clear the front brembos no problem, even without a spacer:
Spring perch hitting tire even with +5mm spacer:
The wheel and tire combo:
I found out they hit the coilover spring perch in the front with even a +5mm spacer. So time for +10mm spacers and extended studs
Enkei NT03+M 18x10.5 +30 wheels
Nitto NT01 275/35/18 tires
The NT01's are wide as hell, they are even square, not stretched, on the 10.5 wheel. Which is causing my clearance issues.
Good news is that they clear the front brembos no problem, even without a spacer:
Spring perch hitting tire even with +5mm spacer:
The wheel and tire combo: