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Old Jan 17, 2016, 02:21 PM
  #286  
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Originally Posted by Evo_AK
Was wondering if you could help me out. I'm installing a surge tank next month and I have a AEM 320lph pump. If I keep the oem pump in the tank, and put that in the surge tank, would that suffice? I figured with the OEM pump feeding the surge tank and the fuel return going to the surge tank, it shouldn't ever go dry, correct?
I would assume a AEM 320lph pump is more than enough to feed stock turbo power, until the pump fails. The AEM's haven't been the most reliable pumps.
Old Jan 17, 2016, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
I would assume a AEM 320lph pump is more than enough to feed stock turbo power, until the pump fails. The AEM's haven't been the most reliable pumps.
Even the new green top E-85 compatible ones? If not, what is a better pump, that flows around the same?
Old Jan 24, 2016, 06:49 PM
  #288  
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Did some work on the car today.

I wanted to upgrade my current engine bay fuel feed line (BLAQ OPS line), which was normal rubber fuel line and plastic quick disconnect fittings to a -6AN PTFE braided line and metal fittings.

Turns out all the parts you need to do this are available individually and you don't have to pay some of the crazy prices some sell these for, if you are handy and just want to put it together yourself.

Here is the parts list:

Code:
Radium PTFE -6AN Hose Assembly 20.0”  - $27.95
Straight -6AN / 90* -6AN

JEGS Compact Billet In-Line Fuel Filter #15031 - $27.99
-6AN Male/Female

Russell Push-On Fitting #644113 - $18.00 (x2)
-6AN to 5/16 

Optional:
Russell #670343 $15.57
-6AN to 1/8” NPT Gauge Port (I added this for my fuel pressure sensor fitting)
As you can see, parts wise it comes out to $91.94 before shipping. Great price for all the high quality parts.

Here it is all assembled. Note this is showing the optional 1/8" NPT gauge port fitting I added for my fuel pressure sensor. This fitting is NOT needed. (Unless you want a place to put a fuel pressure sensor.)



The filter side that connects to the OEM fuel hard line coming into the engine bay:



Here you can see the Continental Ethanol sensor plumbed into the return line and how the feed line and return line live with each other in the engine bay.



The side that connects to the OEM fuel rail inlet:



You'll notice that in order for the Russell metal quick disconnect fitting to fit, I had to bend back the OEM retaining tab and I also had to grind down the Russell screw fitting so it would clear. This would have to be done on any aftermarket feed line that uses the same fitting.

Also of note, these metal retainer screw type (instead of plastic clips) quick disconnect fittings are a pain in the *** to make sure the metal retainer screw is tightened down when there is little room in the engine bay. Choose your tool wisely!

I also ended up wrapping the part of the feed line that travels past the exhaust manifold with heat wrap.



Old Jan 30, 2016, 09:03 AM
  #289  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Did some work on the car today.

I wanted to upgrade my current engine bay fuel feed line (BLAQ OPS line), which was normal rubber fuel line and plastic quick disconnect fittings to a -6AN PTFE braided line and metal fittings.

Turns out all the parts you need to do this are available individually and you don't have to pay some of the crazy prices some sell these for, if you are handy and just want to put it together yourself.

Here is the parts list:

Code:
Radium PTFE -6AN Hose Assembly 20.0”  - $27.95
Straight -6AN / 90* -6AN

JEGS Compact Billet In-Line Fuel Filter #15031 - $27.99
-6AN Male/Female

Russell Push-On Fitting #644113 - $18.00 (x2)
-6AN to 5/16 

Optional:
Russell #670343 $15.57
-6AN to 1/8” NPT Gauge Port (I added this for my fuel pressure sensor fitting)
As you can see, parts wise it comes out to $91.94 before shipping. Great price for all the high quality parts.

Here it is all assembled. Note this is showing the optional 1/8" NPT gauge port fitting I added for my fuel pressure sensor. This fitting is NOT needed. (Unless you want a place to put a fuel pressure sensor.)



The filter side that connects to the OEM fuel hard line coming into the engine bay:



Here you can see the Continental Ethanol sensor plumbed into the return line and how the feed line and return line live with each other in the engine bay.



The side that connects to the OEM fuel rail inlet:



You'll notice that in order for the Russell metal quick disconnect fitting to fit, I had to bend back the OEM retaining tab and I also had to grind down the Russell screw fitting so it would clear. This would have to be done on any aftermarket feed line that uses the same fitting.

Also of note, these metal retainer screw type (instead of plastic clips) quick disconnect fittings are a pain in the *** to make sure the metal retainer screw is tightened down when there is little room in the engine bay. Choose your tool wisely!

I also ended up wrapping the part of the feed line that travels past the exhaust manifold with heat wrap.



Thanks for breaking this list out! I had actually started to create the same parts list from JEGS. However, the radium hose assembly was a quicker and cheaper path to making that 90deg turn (even with the radium shipping charge).
I liked it so much I just ordered your parts list.

I know in tank that the sock and the pump must be E85 safe, but I cannot seem to get a clear picture on what hoses in the tank area need changing for E85. Any pointers on that would be appreciated.


~Jaraxle

Last edited by Jaraxle; Jan 30, 2016 at 11:49 AM. Reason: left out info
Old Jan 30, 2016, 12:22 PM
  #290  
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Great pictures !!
I understand more when u can see it in pictures ..
That's why I have asked in other post on pictures on where you tapped the FlexFuel sensor into the ECU .. Pictures are great !
Old Feb 4, 2016, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
New year, new suspension setup:

Have you installed the Ohlins and mounted the NT03s? I'm wanting a set up similar (if not same) as yours and want to know if there will be any kind of issues without modifying the fenders (roll, pull, etc.).

You are using 265 tires. Would 275 tires fit without fender modifications?

Thanks! Subscribed to your thread!
Old Feb 4, 2016, 04:23 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by SoloSpeed101
Have you installed the Ohlins and mounted the NT03s? I'm wanting a set up similar (if not same) as yours and want to know if there will be any kind of issues without modifying the fenders (roll, pull, etc.).

You are using 265 tires. Would 275 tires fit without fender modifications?

Thanks! Subscribed to your thread!
I have not installed the Ohlins yet but I have been using the 18x9.5 +27 NT03+M's with +5mm front spacer with the 255/35/18 AD08R tires which measure more like a 265.

They fit the car just fine, I have not rolled the fenders are there is no rub on the street or the track.

I'm moving to 18x10.5 +30 NT03+M's with 275/35/18 Nitto NT01's so will be having to roll the rear fenders.
Old Feb 5, 2016, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
I have not installed the Ohlins yet but I have been using the 18x9.5 +27 NT03+M's with +5mm front spacer with the 255/35/18 AD08R tires which measure more like a 265.

They fit the car just fine, I have not rolled the fenders are there is no rub on the street or the track.

I'm moving to 18x10.5 +30 NT03+M's with 275/35/18 Nitto NT01's so will be having to roll the rear fenders.
Oh wow, so with the 10.5s, you will only have to roll the rear fenders? So other than clearing the Brembo calipers and the front fender tabs, the rear ones are the troubling fenders for fitting larger wheels and tires on Evo Xs?

Let me know if you are putting up the 9.5s on the market. I'm looking~

edit: oh dang, nevermind, you live all the way on the other side of the country... lol

Last edited by SoloSpeed101; Feb 5, 2016 at 11:41 AM.
Old Feb 7, 2016, 09:28 AM
  #294  
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Awesome thread razorlab. Quick question, did sway bar made a night and day different? I find my self that stock X gsr handling isnt even close to Evo 9 MR that i had (just swift spring). Do you think sway bar or center roll kit will help much? Thanks
Old Feb 7, 2016, 10:01 AM
  #295  
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Originally Posted by Chef-j
Awesome thread razorlab. Quick question, did sway bar made a night and day different? I find my self that stock X gsr handling isnt even close to Evo 9 MR that i had (just swift spring). Do you think sway bar or center roll kit will help much? Thanks
I hated the handling with bilsteins and swift springs. As soon as I went to coilovers I started enjoying the car again.

The X is heavy, needs some proper dampening, spring rates and some negative camber in the front.
Old Feb 7, 2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by razorlab
I hated the handling with bilsteins and swift springs. As soon as I went to coilovers I started enjoying the car again.

The X is heavy, needs some proper dampening, spring rates and some negative camber in the front.
Ok so you felt coilover helped than sway bar?
Old Feb 7, 2016, 12:32 PM
  #297  
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Originally Posted by Chef-j
Ok so you felt coilover helped than sway bar?
Depends on you car setup preference.

I prefer rear swaybar and lower spring rates. Some people prefer oem rear swaybar and higher spring rates.

Current coilovers are 8k/8k with Whiteline rear sway on middle setting.

Ohlins that are going on are 10k/10k.
Old Feb 7, 2016, 12:55 PM
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Gotcha. Thanks!
Old Feb 15, 2016, 07:10 PM
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Today I rolled my rear fenders to get ready for my set of track wheels/tires.

I found out they hit the coilover spring perch in the front with even a +5mm spacer. So time for +10mm spacers and extended studs

Enkei NT03+M 18x10.5 +30 wheels
Nitto NT01 275/35/18 tires

The NT01's are wide as hell, they are even square, not stretched, on the 10.5 wheel. Which is causing my clearance issues.

Good news is that they clear the front brembos no problem, even without a spacer:




Spring perch hitting tire even with +5mm spacer:



The wheel and tire combo:



Old Feb 16, 2016, 03:39 AM
  #300  
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Why don't you try shorter front springs? 7" (perhaps 6") should clear your tires, IMO


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