razorlab's simple build(s)
#859
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
MAP and MAF follow pretty close at WOT:
https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/rcptri...24&zoom=54-319
Pretty close at idle, could probably get it even closer:
https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/rcpidl...ta=10-27-29-30
Almost spot on at cruise:
https://datazap.me/u/razorlab/rcpidl...zoom=2159-4688
I might do that... however if the car is really running lean with trims out of the equation, aka not even using front 02 sensor, then I don't think it's the 02 sensor.
#861
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
One interesting tidbit, with trims on and reset, the first 10 minutes or so the car idles really high when coming up to a stop, like the idle flares up and sits there. I'm assuming it's because it's drenching the cylinders with fuel.
With trims OFF, it does not exhibit that characteristic.
I did try to richen up idle in open loop but if I got it to idle closer to stoich, it would then go really rich on tip in like it did when it was in closed loop with trims compensating.
#862
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Also, on the Evo 8/9, if you disable the fuel trims, the ECU switches to another routine to attempt to control AFR at idle. Stopping this alternative routine requires tweaking one table. I wouldn't be surprised if the Evo 10 also has this alternative routine. If my memory serves me correctly, its pretty obvious when its working because AFR will exhibit periodic cycling.
#863
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
How are you attempting to richen it?
Also, on the Evo 8/9, if you disable the fuel trims, the ECU switches to another routine to attempt to control AFR at idle. Stopping this alternative routine requires tweaking one table. I wouldn't be surprised if the Evo 10 also has this alternative routine. If my memory serves me correctly, its pretty obvious when its working because AFR will exhibit periodic cycling.
Also, on the Evo 8/9, if you disable the fuel trims, the ECU switches to another routine to attempt to control AFR at idle. Stopping this alternative routine requires tweaking one table. I wouldn't be surprised if the Evo 10 also has this alternative routine. If my memory serves me correctly, its pretty obvious when its working because AFR will exhibit periodic cycling.
Do tell about about the alternative routine and table...
#868
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
Code:
<table name="Calibration Fuel Map" address="57713" category="Fuel" type="3D" swapxy="true" scaling="Percent128"><table name="Load" address="621bc" type="X Axis" elements="41" scaling="Load"/><table name="RPM" address="62190" type="Y Axis" elements="19" scaling="RPM"/></table>
Code:
<table name="Calibration Fuel Map" address="576d3" category="Fuel" type="3D" swapxy="true" scaling="Percent128"><table name="Load" address="617d6" type="X Axis" elements="41" scaling="Load"/><table name="RPM" address="617aa" type="Y Axis" elements="19" scaling="RPM"/></table>
#869
The fuel Cal table is basically 3D speed density since the X runs off of a mix of the MAF and speed density. So, adjusting fuel cal table is like play with MAP/VE and RPM/VE tables in an 8/9 rom, Mychailo.
#870
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From: Mid-Hudson, NY
I took the car out yesterday for about two hours and it's still totally sensitive. Some pulls are semi clean (2 counts or less) and some are just knock city, 8+ and that is where I have the ECU pull throttle. This is also with like no timing (3* to 9*) and 24-25psi. It's driving me insane.
So... I tried doing another boost leak test today. I cannot get this damn thing to hold any air. I have no idea wtf the problem is. I even bumped the motor over a couple times and tried to fill the system with air each time. The air goes in and the couplers get firm but as soon as I stop feeding it air, it all comes out as fast as it goes in. The problem is I cannot hear it leave. I can hear a VERY faint air sound towards the back of the motor.
Can I get a sanity check here? Did I forget how to do a boost leak test? Am I forgetting something totally stupid?
Here is what the engine bay looked like during the test (I put a 4" boost leak testor on the compressor housing).
Here is what it looks like all together:
So... I tried doing another boost leak test today. I cannot get this damn thing to hold any air. I have no idea wtf the problem is. I even bumped the motor over a couple times and tried to fill the system with air each time. The air goes in and the couplers get firm but as soon as I stop feeding it air, it all comes out as fast as it goes in. The problem is I cannot hear it leave. I can hear a VERY faint air sound towards the back of the motor.
Can I get a sanity check here? Did I forget how to do a boost leak test? Am I forgetting something totally stupid?
Here is what the engine bay looked like during the test (I put a 4" boost leak testor on the compressor housing).
Here is what it looks like all together: