2008 Evo x gsr (build thread attempt)
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2008 Evo x gsr (build thread attempt)
So to start.. I'm 24 years old and just got out of the corps. I picked up an 08 gsr a few months back and I'm just now getting to "touch" it! Super excited! So my plan it to do this right... I don't have a ton of money so I know it's going to take time...I do have patience and willing to learn and take advice!!! Please give me your advice!!! I found a post I feel is very helpful and is going to be the guidance for my build....
The very first thing I would do at this point is;
1. Put on the Rally Armor mud flaps I pre-ordered knowing how thin the paint was. “I really really wish this was my first mod”
2. Pull into the garage and change the oil in the car because I have no idea how long its been sitting in the car. While I am at it I check every other fluid level from transmission all the way back to the rear ASC container.
3. Since I pre ordered my new fuel relay I get it slapped into place for a little added security and then put the spare in the good old glove box.
4. I marry my AP (AccessPort) to the car and flash on stage 2 map LWG (YES you heard me right). – Maps can be found HERE
5. I drive pretty easy for about 3000 miles and change my oil again.
6. Install a down pipe with an extra bung for my wide band O2 sensor.
7. Install Wide band and gauge as well as boost gauge.
8. Install cat back exhaust (If you self tune you can install test pipe at this point as well).
9. Add drop in filter or intake and flash appropriate map on. (Intake dependent on future goals, if you want to do a larger turbo I suggest getting an intake thats 3″ all the way to the turbo that includes a 3″ MAF housing)
10. Drive like I stole the car for 3000 miles and change oil as well as tranny fluid.
11. Install Intercooler and upper / lower piping
12. One step colder plugs
13. Custom tune (If you want a test pipe install just before this tune if you don’t self tune, I don’t recommend running a test pipe with an OTS map unless you know how to log or tune) You may also think about having a Meth kit at this point as well depending on your end goals and available octane grade.
14. Go another 3000 miles driving like a retard / hitting the track / launching several times at the drags etc. Time to change oil again and clutch is starting to smell funny.
15. Install clutch appropriate for future mods, don’t skimp you will regret it. Twin clutch for the big power guys and a good full face clutch with an upgraded pressure plate for the daily driver / spirited drivers.
Drive for a bit and start craving more power and since I have a good clutch I start to put my power upgrades together. If your a self tuner its a good idea to start with a little at a time. Depending on your goals for the future lets drop in a part or 2 at a time and start dialing them in looking for issues. Its better to do this than dump a bunch of parts in all at once and then start back tracking for whats causing this or that to happen. So that being said;
16. Injectors (Get them dialed in with the right scale and latency)
17. 3 port boost control solenoid
18. Fuel pump (If going with 1000cc or larger injectors on a 60 lb/min turbo or if you are going with E85) since your injectors are dialed in you can now see if this new pump is causing you to run different fuel trims and adjust for them.
19. Turbo & upgraded actuator (Before you get to this point you probably should have planned your other mods based on this decision. Items like exhaust flow, and injector size may have to be changed if you didn’t plan right. For choosing a turbo you need to understand what you want your car to do. Are you just chasing a dyno # or is there a purpose in mind like a specific type of racing.) Turbo selection can be an entire thread all its own but it comes down to what you want or need for goal / target.
20. Cams & springs
Now if your not a self tuner you will probably have to just drop your car off at a shop and have them do 16-20 for you all at once or send you basic maps as you install each. As for the turbo and cams I would do both at the same time since it would make sense to get it all done while your there and have it all apart. Its also a good time to do a header if your going that direction.
21. Stroker kit (Because at this point your going to need stronger rods and internals anyways)
-original poster unknown
Now obviously I'm not going to follow this to the "T" so here we go!
The very first thing I would do at this point is;
1. Put on the Rally Armor mud flaps I pre-ordered knowing how thin the paint was. “I really really wish this was my first mod”
2. Pull into the garage and change the oil in the car because I have no idea how long its been sitting in the car. While I am at it I check every other fluid level from transmission all the way back to the rear ASC container.
3. Since I pre ordered my new fuel relay I get it slapped into place for a little added security and then put the spare in the good old glove box.
4. I marry my AP (AccessPort) to the car and flash on stage 2 map LWG (YES you heard me right). – Maps can be found HERE
5. I drive pretty easy for about 3000 miles and change my oil again.
6. Install a down pipe with an extra bung for my wide band O2 sensor.
7. Install Wide band and gauge as well as boost gauge.
8. Install cat back exhaust (If you self tune you can install test pipe at this point as well).
9. Add drop in filter or intake and flash appropriate map on. (Intake dependent on future goals, if you want to do a larger turbo I suggest getting an intake thats 3″ all the way to the turbo that includes a 3″ MAF housing)
10. Drive like I stole the car for 3000 miles and change oil as well as tranny fluid.
11. Install Intercooler and upper / lower piping
12. One step colder plugs
13. Custom tune (If you want a test pipe install just before this tune if you don’t self tune, I don’t recommend running a test pipe with an OTS map unless you know how to log or tune) You may also think about having a Meth kit at this point as well depending on your end goals and available octane grade.
14. Go another 3000 miles driving like a retard / hitting the track / launching several times at the drags etc. Time to change oil again and clutch is starting to smell funny.
15. Install clutch appropriate for future mods, don’t skimp you will regret it. Twin clutch for the big power guys and a good full face clutch with an upgraded pressure plate for the daily driver / spirited drivers.
Drive for a bit and start craving more power and since I have a good clutch I start to put my power upgrades together. If your a self tuner its a good idea to start with a little at a time. Depending on your goals for the future lets drop in a part or 2 at a time and start dialing them in looking for issues. Its better to do this than dump a bunch of parts in all at once and then start back tracking for whats causing this or that to happen. So that being said;
16. Injectors (Get them dialed in with the right scale and latency)
17. 3 port boost control solenoid
18. Fuel pump (If going with 1000cc or larger injectors on a 60 lb/min turbo or if you are going with E85) since your injectors are dialed in you can now see if this new pump is causing you to run different fuel trims and adjust for them.
19. Turbo & upgraded actuator (Before you get to this point you probably should have planned your other mods based on this decision. Items like exhaust flow, and injector size may have to be changed if you didn’t plan right. For choosing a turbo you need to understand what you want your car to do. Are you just chasing a dyno # or is there a purpose in mind like a specific type of racing.) Turbo selection can be an entire thread all its own but it comes down to what you want or need for goal / target.
20. Cams & springs
Now if your not a self tuner you will probably have to just drop your car off at a shop and have them do 16-20 for you all at once or send you basic maps as you install each. As for the turbo and cams I would do both at the same time since it would make sense to get it all done while your there and have it all apart. Its also a good time to do a header if your going that direction.
21. Stroker kit (Because at this point your going to need stronger rods and internals anyways)
-original poster unknown
Now obviously I'm not going to follow this to the "T" so here we go!
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So things I've already done... I've installed an ARK DESIGN simple turbo timer, it came with TEIN lowering spring, I installed a GPS to get rid of that basic BS lol I'll be posting pics tomorrow
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The day I got my car... instant love! Hahah don't know why it's upside down lol
Last edited by Knorm; Oct 10, 2014 at 02:20 AM. Reason: photo upside down
#4
I've read that a turbo timer isn't all that necessary but since you already installed it added security. And as far as power my plans are full bolt ons+e85. Not a fan of mud flaps. So i opted without them for my car and the paint is okay @ 12k miles.
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Yeah I opted out of the mud flaps as well... I might get them later on and only use them for snow trips or really long distance. As far as the turbo timer I got it for just that added insurance... Nothing wrong with a little cool down. It is my DD so it's gotta be as reliable as possible too.
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So I'm getting ready to order some parts... Thinking maybe the Cobb access port, a testpipe (debating to use cobs or not), and the Cobb intake... Any thoughts or advice?
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