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EVOLUTION VIII - 2.3 Stroker Project

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Old May 15, 2016 | 12:49 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by JRally
Be careful with that Manley crank. They're a bit weak. I cracked one at about 9000 miles making 430whp.

But my setup is about the same as yours. 2.3 with an fp black.

the same "knife edge" crank?

yea, now I see, you had the 190120 crank, the basic one
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/pr...#&gid=1&pid=41

Last edited by Kevin Troy; May 15, 2016 at 01:01 AM.
Old May 16, 2016 | 05:46 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by JRally
Be careful with that Manley crank. They're a bit weak. I cracked one at about 9000 miles making 430whp.

But my setup is about the same as yours. 2.3 with an fp black.

Manley Cranks are weak? I'm building a 2.3 Stroker with a 100mm Crank. It's not a track/completion car...
Old May 16, 2016 | 06:02 AM
  #78  
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Nice write up, just want to ask you how did you spray your block? Just over with black spray or did something else?



EVOLUTION VIII - 2.3 Stroker Project-image-3847012005.jpg

this is my engine bay, so I have to work with my block to
Old May 16, 2016 | 08:42 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by NJ9MR
Manley Cranks are weak? I'm building a 2.3 Stroker with a 100mm Crank. It's not a track/completion car...
Just don't use the one mentioned in the comment directly above yours. That's the one several people have broken. I've seen their billet one crack too.
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Old May 16, 2016 | 10:11 AM
  #80  
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2 Lukelis;
Thanks, It's regular thermal resistant black paint for the block.
Bit the Rocker cover (valve cover) is powder-coated in black which gives you this gloss fancy look

Your engine bay looks nice to. Where can I read the spec of it?
Old May 16, 2016 | 02:31 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Kevin Troy
2 Lukelis;
Thanks, It's regular thermal resistant black paint for the block.
Bit the Rocker cover (valve cover) is powder-coated in black which gives you this gloss fancy look

Your engine bay looks nice to. Where can I read the spec of it?
Europe, where are you from dude?
Old May 17, 2016 | 12:12 AM
  #82  
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Croatia :-)
Old May 17, 2016 | 03:36 AM
  #83  
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nice do you have like an evo club in Croatia? why Im asking? I have my own bussines with evos and Im parting them out, so I have a lot of parts
Old May 17, 2016 | 08:39 AM
  #84  
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The details in this build are just amazing. Can't wait to see it running.

- Renato
Old May 17, 2016 | 10:02 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Lukelis
nice do you have like an evo club in Croatia? why Im asking? I have my own bussines with evos and Im parting them out, so I have a lot of parts
We are a small Country, most of the evo drivers know each other but we have our MTC (Mitsubishi Team Croatia) http://www.mitsubishi.hr/
You can PM me details of parts you sell. We always need parts & upgrades


Originally Posted by TWM Performance
The details in this build are just amazing. Can't wait to see it running.

- Renato
Thanks for the support
And you can imagine how anxious I am to see/hear it fire up for the first time...
Old May 18, 2016 | 05:17 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by JRally
Be careful with that Manley crank. They're a bit weak. I cracked one at about 9000 miles making 430whp.

But my setup is about the same as yours. 2.3 with an fp black.
But it's better than the oem 100mm crank, correct?
I have crack my oem 4g64 at 500hp fully built motor.
I just built a brand new 4g64 block with the basic Manley 100mm crank now with the Manley TT 150mm rods and Wisco hd 9.0:1 Pistons.
So far it's running great with just 500 miles break in.

Hopefully with the good tune, it will last me for awhile
Old May 18, 2016 | 07:43 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Howulikemyevo
But it's better than the oem 100mm crank, correct?
I have crack my oem 4g64 at 500hp fully built motor.
I just built a brand new 4g64 block with the basic Manley 100mm crank now with the Manley TT 150mm rods and Wisco hd 9.0:1 Pistons.
So far it's running great with just 500 miles break in.

Hopefully with the good tune, it will last me for awhile
I broke the Manley forged at 431whp/376lb-ft wtq
Old May 18, 2016 | 01:03 PM
  #88  
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Why did you galvanize the coolant pipe? Just curious. Below is pulled from the Internets.

"Galvanised (as in hot dip) steel is not so good - zinc's galvanic voltage is 1.2V. Being hot dipped, the inside of the pipes is likely to be zinc plated, as well as the outside."
Old May 18, 2016 | 01:30 PM
  #89  
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I galvanized it because of several rost spots.
The process took several bath steps but the first AFAIR acidic bath to remove impurity, rost etc and final step is galvanization and cooling.
And it looks more nice then before
Old May 18, 2016 | 01:35 PM
  #90  
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Yes. Just be aware the zinc can cause current to run through the pipe.

(I just learned this too).


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