Spazm

Like most engine builds, i imagine, mine started with a couple holes in my once complete engine block.

With Autocross and a local time attack series in mind i started to plan out what i wanted.... should be obvious. MORE POWAH!

This was at the same time i was helping a friend drop his version of a GM L76 (6.0L LS block topped with LS3 heads) into a P.O.S. BMW 325 from craigslist. He dyno'd to 450/420 roughly. My goal was and still is to top that.

so, the list started to grow. The stuff i have assembled/completed is:

• For fuel i chose E85 (big shocker there) fed by a radium surge tank kit from MAP. See below for injectors.
• For now the head was checked and new valves installed. I was advised the OE head flows really well and porting should not be a priority. Looking into the ports i saw no reason to doubt that advice. It is held in place with ARP head studs
• Cams are OE. Looking to keep good idle and drivability. Potential for change if results are underwhelming.
• The Block is a used core that was sent to ERL for sleeves. Oh so pretty.
• Pistons are Wiseco. Pretty standard. Oil squirter modifications were needed. I left some fairly large clearances hoping they wont try to give a piston a hug.
• Rods are Manley turbo tuff I-beams. I was fairly pleased to be able to get each piston/rod assembly balanced to under 1 gram difference.
• OE crank. Mains got ARP stud treatment as well.
• Oil pan is a fairly new MAP in-house production. 1.5L extra capacity as well as baffles
• Clutch master cylinder conversion. As far as i can tell the AMS, MAP, and Magnus all seem to be the same thing. Uses avo 8/9 master with an adapter plate. I got mine from MAP. The pain in the *** factor was a lot higher than i expected. Not so much what needed to be done as where it needed to be done. I think most people bust out a grinder of some sort and get to work. I did that for the first of 2 studs to be removed. On the second deeper stud i figured i would try something else. I sharpened up a chisel for my air hammer and was able to cut out out fairly quickly without much effort. It did dig into the sheet metal a little bit but nothing too terrible. I smoothed both spots out with a sanding disk before sealing the bare metal with some primer. After that it was easy. I am so happy i was able to just plop myself in the engine bay (since it is still empty) and go to work. I would probably still be cursing that task if the engine was in its normal place.

A few things are still unpurchased.

• Turbo. Front runner is MHI based on cost and spool. However doubtful it will be able to reach my goals. Next up is a stock location EFR 7670 that Boost Resource seems to be dragging their feet with. (dropping a few thousand on a product not even available yet is not something i want to do.) Rounding up my turbo dilemma is the EFR 7163. Better spool than 7670 and should put out more than MHI. Would require a different manifold and downpipe solution than i currently have. (Info about these turbos on built blocks is sporadic at best. If anyone has dyno sheets or input about these turbos on built blocks please chime in.)
• Clutch. Comp stage 3 is what i have written down. Will be the last thing to bolt up. Dont want it in the way when i am not ready for it. May change
• Injectors. 1100 seems to be the largest option for the extended nozzle design same as the original injectors. With the choices being FIC or DW. The extended nozzle gives better atomization. Easy to change if needed. Same story as clutch, dont need them cluttering my work space until i need them.

After the car is driving again and any bugs are worked out i will move on to tires. With the engine mods ruining my car classing (was classed as BS for SCCA) I very badly want to run 275/35R18 hoosiers. We'll see where that goes.

Spazm

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Jmills

iTrader: (7)

Should be a fun build! Good luck!

bosoup

Hoping that thing makes the power you want! Looks like it is going to be a monster.