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I know that many people will take on a build like this and when things start to get frustrating, expensive, or hopeless they will give up on it and sell the whole thing. The thing is, I already know how extraordinary the evo is when it is actually working properly. I'm addicted to that and I want that back. I will stop at nothing until I get there because I actually had that for 5 years until I blew the oem IX motor .
Back then, it was incredible. I would jump on the road with a stock block, stock cams, stock turbo, MAF tuned, E85 evo 9, still destroy nearly everything in site, drive to Vegas from San Diego and back, do the same thing again, and no harm was done. Not a even a quart of oil burned.
The car is far from perfect, but I've come too far to turn back now.
-pal215
To bad your post is to long to be but in forum signature.
I agree with everything you said
I know what you mean. I've owned mine for 12 years. Love the car and potential too much to give it up. Shoot probably pass it on to my son when I get too old!
To bad your post is to long to be but in forum signature.
I agree with everything you said
Originally Posted by V.8MR
I know what you mean. I've owned mine for 12 years. Love the car and potential too much to give it up. Shoot probably pass it on to my son when I get too old!
Thanks guys, I appreciate that. I know that there are people on here who are just as obsessed as I am. V.8MR I think that your son would gladly accept the car. My Dad was going to give me his 5 speed, 4 wheel drive, 1991 Toyota 4-runner as my first car and I was very happy about it. The motor blew a few months prior to my license and so that never happened. Instead, I drove the family minivan for a couple of years haha.
Update:
New tires have arrived in the oem size! Looking forward to converting from slotted rotors back to blanks as I'm tired of the braking noise and roughness that comes with them. Will be replacing my SS brake lines with a fresh set as well. For the record they are Goodridge lines and have lasted more than 6 years so far on the car with lots of street action. I've also accidentally left tension on them when removing the coilovers for other installs OVERNIGHT. It was a stupid mistake, but that's how you know they are damn strong lines.
For the love of having good brakes, DO NOT install those EBC red stuff pads. They suck. No matter what you do, they leave uneven deposits on the rotor and shake the car to death. They also fade very quickly.
For the love of having good brakes, DO NOT install those EBC red stuff pads. They suck. No matter what you do, they leave uneven deposits on the rotor and shake the car to death. They also fade very quickly.
What about strictly for daily driving? I've had a set on the car for a while now and they brake quietly with more bite than oem. You're right that the car does shake a little under heavy braking and they do fade..
In the past I tried Girodisk "magic pads" and they were awful. They shrieked to high heaven and dusted like crazy. I just don't want to throw those XP10's into the car until my first track day (If that day ever comes Lol)
I used the red's for dd for 2 months, then threw them away...lol. The Girodisc SS pads are really good. Have them on my GF's X MR.
I'll check those out! I wish I could get my gf into an evo. She'll sometimes complain about how I drive, but when she's behind the wheel in my car she realizes why I drive like that and does the same thing XD
Absolutely guys, if it's not one thing it's another. I know that many people will take on a build like this and when things start to get frustrating, expensive, or hopeless they will give up on it and sell the whole thing. The thing is, I already know how extraordinary the evo is when it is actually working properly.
I know EXACTLY what your talking about here. Glad you were able to figure it out.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was always told that the FPR doesn't need to be touched. The OEM unit is very capable of handling big power. It's only necessary on huge power build. I rock my OEM unit and well into the 650hp range.
I know EXACTLY what your talking about here. Glad you were able to figure it out.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was always told that the FPR doesn't need to be touched. The OEM unit is very capable of handling big power. It's only necessary on huge power build. I rock my OEM unit and well into the 650hp range.
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
How much power you make doesn't effect what FPR you need, it's how much your fuel pump(s) flow..
Exactly! In short if your fuel setup flows too high you can overrun the stock FPR even after drilling the siphon tube in the tank leading to exceedingly high fuel pressures. You can be making 250hp and still have this problem. People just associated this rule with high hp numbers because higher hp cars typically need crazy fuel setups.
The aftermarket FPR is just to turn down the fuel pressure to 43.5psi.
Well gentlemen, it looks like i'm going the whole 9 yards with this build. I am officially loosing oil and I don't know why, but i'm going to find out. This is the difference in my dipstick after just 100 miles of aggressive driving. Looks like more than half a quart just vanished and there is already about 3000 miles on this motor.
Before
80 Miles later
Scenario:
-Oil is Valvoline VR1 20w50
-Car drives normally
-Catch can has very little fluid in it, but lot's of vapors are coming out of its top filter at idle.
-No blue or white smoke at idle from exhaust. I can't tell while driving/in boost until I get someone to drive behind me to record for me.
-Oil pressure is 90 psi during cruise and 30 psi at idle.
-No visible oil leaks anywhere
-I am NOT using the recommended valve springs and retainers for my GSC R2 cams because I was told by BP that their cylinder head which comes with supertech dual valve springs and retainers is safe to use with these R2 cams. GSC states "With the lift of this profile it is suggested to only use the 5041/5040 Ti retainer and spring kits do to valve seal to retainer clearance. "
So if that's not just a sales pitch by GSC, one problem right off the bat is I could have torn into the top of my valve stem seals using these cams with that setup causing oil to seep into my valve guides and then the combustion chambers. As such, replacing the valve stem seals, springs, and retainers will be the first thing I do after testing.
It's time we come up with a plan:
1. Compression and leak down test
2. Check to see if the turbo feed or return lines are leaking (again there are no leaks on the ground)
3. Check to see if oil is dripping on top of the downpipe and burning off before I can see it where the turbo return line terminates into the oil pan. (has happened before)
4. Check to see if the turbo blew a seal and is blowing oil into my intercooler piping or my downpipe. (How would I check this on the downpipe side if the oil burns off before I can see it?)
5. Check inside bell housing to see if all hell has broken loose behind the flywheel at the rear main seal? Wouldn't it be leaking on the ground?
6. Is there anything I missed that I should check before I tear this thing apart again?
If engine tear down is necessary i'll start from the turbo and downpipe.
If nothing is found there even after replacing the springs and retainers with the GSC kit as well as new valve stem seals, I may have to remove the head for the 3rd time and have it resurfaced. I'll probably need to pick up a fresh set of head studs at that point as I don't think it's safe to reuse L19's for the 3rd time.
Am I wrong in assuming that it's not the shortblock? I just can't imagine oil climbing up the cylinder walls. Only oil coming down from the head.
Any time I have had valve stem seals go bad it has smoked at least a little at idle (you'd definitely smell it a bit) and then plume huge when revved after it sat idle for a while. If it's not burning oil I'd say next thing to do is look for leaks. Clean it really well if its oily (I can't imagine your car being oily lol) drive it around the block and check for seepage.
My oil pan bolt currently leaks and even being that low still manages to soak everything behind it pretty good. If its leaking you'll see it.
How aggressive of driving? My car goes through around 3/4 of quart in a 30 minute track session. It's a new motor, so verifying proper assembly and break in with comp and leak down tests is a good idea.
You have an FP journal bearing turbo, so I doubt it's the turbo. Also, once a turbo starts smoking, it's pretty noticeable.
Mar 20, 2017, 12:31 PM
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What about strictly for daily driving? I've had a set on the car for a while now and they brake quietly with more bite than oem. You're right that the car does shake a little under heavy braking and they do fade..
