Evo IX 2.3 Liter Build FP Black Build
#691
Thanks! Here are some more helpful pictures and progress shots.
This is the M18 x 1.5 banjo bolt. It looks almost too long in the picture but it fits perfect with the barbed fitting in place.
Barbed Banjo fitting. Don't want to overtighten or undertighten the clamp. They should be more than snug but less than the point where you can see hose material come out of the slots in the clamp.
Some wiring from the relay. The yellow wire powers the oil pump while the white and blue go to battery +12v
This is what you will find inside your car next to the clutch pedal to receive the wire that gets pushed through the grommet on the driver side inner fender well.
Where I choose to mount my relay. (Driver side shock tower using pre-existing holes). Do not drill a hole in your shock tower just to mount a relay.
Here is the optional oil return line location on top of the trans. I will probably be using this to fill the trans once I am done.
This is the M18 x 1.5 banjo bolt. It looks almost too long in the picture but it fits perfect with the barbed fitting in place.
Barbed Banjo fitting. Don't want to overtighten or undertighten the clamp. They should be more than snug but less than the point where you can see hose material come out of the slots in the clamp.
Some wiring from the relay. The yellow wire powers the oil pump while the white and blue go to battery +12v
This is what you will find inside your car next to the clutch pedal to receive the wire that gets pushed through the grommet on the driver side inner fender well.
Where I choose to mount my relay. (Driver side shock tower using pre-existing holes). Do not drill a hole in your shock tower just to mount a relay.
Here is the optional oil return line location on top of the trans. I will probably be using this to fill the trans once I am done.
Last edited by Pal215; Sep 14, 2024 at 11:00 AM.
#693
Ok Gents,
I am ready to reveal my proof of concept and more general instructions. My goals with the setup of this transmission cooler is such that it be durable, easy to service, safe, weather proof, and cleanly installed to look like it is supposed to be there. The last thing you want is for a major component to fall off in the middle of the highway and leave your trans gears cooking. You must be very careful and overbuild your installation. I take no responsibility if something goes wrong.
Finished system minus plugging in the final lines.
Close up of oil drain banjo fitting installed
Here you can see where the smoothing of the outside of the fill hole comes in handy.
I decided to mount the pump itself to the back side of my ACD pump carrier. This would position the pump towards the inside of the car, keeping it farther away from the elements and debris. The electrical connections (+ -) were tucked into the OEM wire looms and brought up to there final connections (i.e. to the switched side of the relay with a fuse and the chassis ground). The mounting screws that the pump came with were too small for my liking so I took the pump apart and drilled/tapped the mounting holes for some 10mm bolts I had lying around, making sure they were not too long and did not hit the rotor. I also used a lock washer/flat washer combo to keep vibrations from rattling loose the pump. I don't think it would anyway because the threads I tapped were damn tight.
This is very good mounting point for the pump as it puts it in perfect line up with the oil drain hole of the transmission. In addition to this, you are placing the pump on part of the cars body that was specifically engineered to carry pumps. This could have design advantages of noise and vibration dampening. The earls in line filter was mounted in a perpendicular fashion to make up the distance between the transmission drain plug and inlet side of the pump. It ended up looking pretty clean.
Finally, there was a 10mm bolt hole right next to one of the radiator feet that I plan to mount the hose to to keep it tucked close to the underside of the chassis before terminating both ends at the heat exchanger. All of these components will be protected by my APR front splitter as it doubles as a robust undertray. All what is left to do now is overfill the trans, prime the pump, fill again, and let her rip!
That's it for now guys. Let me know if you have any questions about the install. There are many different ways to do this.
I am ready to reveal my proof of concept and more general instructions. My goals with the setup of this transmission cooler is such that it be durable, easy to service, safe, weather proof, and cleanly installed to look like it is supposed to be there. The last thing you want is for a major component to fall off in the middle of the highway and leave your trans gears cooking. You must be very careful and overbuild your installation. I take no responsibility if something goes wrong.
Finished system minus plugging in the final lines.
Close up of oil drain banjo fitting installed
Here you can see where the smoothing of the outside of the fill hole comes in handy.
I decided to mount the pump itself to the back side of my ACD pump carrier. This would position the pump towards the inside of the car, keeping it farther away from the elements and debris. The electrical connections (+ -) were tucked into the OEM wire looms and brought up to there final connections (i.e. to the switched side of the relay with a fuse and the chassis ground). The mounting screws that the pump came with were too small for my liking so I took the pump apart and drilled/tapped the mounting holes for some 10mm bolts I had lying around, making sure they were not too long and did not hit the rotor. I also used a lock washer/flat washer combo to keep vibrations from rattling loose the pump. I don't think it would anyway because the threads I tapped were damn tight.
This is very good mounting point for the pump as it puts it in perfect line up with the oil drain hole of the transmission. In addition to this, you are placing the pump on part of the cars body that was specifically engineered to carry pumps. This could have design advantages of noise and vibration dampening. The earls in line filter was mounted in a perpendicular fashion to make up the distance between the transmission drain plug and inlet side of the pump. It ended up looking pretty clean.
Finally, there was a 10mm bolt hole right next to one of the radiator feet that I plan to mount the hose to to keep it tucked close to the underside of the chassis before terminating both ends at the heat exchanger. All of these components will be protected by my APR front splitter as it doubles as a robust undertray. All what is left to do now is overfill the trans, prime the pump, fill again, and let her rip!
That's it for now guys. Let me know if you have any questions about the install. There are many different ways to do this.
The following users liked this post:
SoSoEVO (Jan 14, 2019)
#697
After driving the 5 speed IX GSR for many years, the 6 speed makes me feel like i'm driving another car and cruising at 75mph with the tach just a hair over 3k is pretty awesome. I may do a 4.0 final drive upgrade when I send in the trans for the Albins 3-5, but for now I think that the 3k cruise is good.
A much quieter trans cooler pump is on the way. I can't bare driving around with a can opener bolted to the car.
A much quieter trans cooler pump is on the way. I can't bare driving around with a can opener bolted to the car.
#698
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Pal - A few of my customers cars have this pump. Its pretty quiet. Not sure how much you paid for your new one but it may be cheaper?
https://www.kartek.com/parts/tilton-...buna-pump.html
https://www.kartek.com/parts/tilton-...buna-pump.html
#699
Pal - A few of my customers cars have this pump. Its pretty quiet. Not sure how much you paid for your new one but it may be cheaper?
https://www.kartek.com/parts/tilton-...buna-pump.html
https://www.kartek.com/parts/tilton-...buna-pump.html
Last edited by Pal215; Jan 16, 2019 at 01:41 PM.
#700
I just sent off my less than 3 year old JB Black to FP for a rebuild. Recently the car began to smoke blue between shifts and randomly at idle, indicating that it is once again burning oil. Looks like the turbo crunched something because there is some excessive shaft play and you can hear the turbine side rubbing on something when you turn the compressor wheel. I hope to have it back before the end of Feb.
#702
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Should have popped the housing off to see what was going on in there.
#703
Newbie
After driving the 5 speed IX GSR for many years, the 6 speed makes me feel like i'm driving another car and cruising at 75mph with the tach just a hair over 3k is pretty awesome. I may do a 4.0 final drive upgrade when I send in the trans for the Albins 3-5, but for now I think that the 3k cruise is good.
A much quieter trans cooler pump is on the way. I can't bare driving around with a can opener bolted to the car.
A much quieter trans cooler pump is on the way. I can't bare driving around with a can opener bolted to the car.
#705
I agree 100%. I can't wait to one day install the Albins gear set. The 5 speed was nice for a long time, but after having the 6 speed for a few weeks I can honestly say that this was the transmission Mitsubishi should have focused on beefing up. It's a nicer daily driver trans and I think that with this trans cooler setup, the long term investment of the Albins gear set will pay off. I really hope that it will be good for the occasional high power goofing off.