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Sweet! I'll go ahead and give this advice a try with the 91 timing map. I'll be switching back and forth fuel types between tanks until I have dialed my FreeFuel flexfuel rom. I just switched over to this lesser known rom and I am pretty happy with it as a replacement for the exclusive Fitronics flexfuel rom.
Today I was able to retune the E85 fuel map and turn up the boost. I would have liked to stay out on my tuning road longer tonight to free up more top end hp, but it started raining and it cut my time short . I still need to take fuel out of some areas and perhaps richen a few, but the VD numbers are close to what I got on the Dynapack hub dyno. The difference is now the car REALLY get's up and goes early. More torque and much earlier. In fact, i'm not even sure it's safe haha.
Results on E85:
My goal is to lower the boost spike of 33.8 psi at 4250 rpm to 31 and raise the boost between 5000 and 5500 to keep the boost taper nice and uniform. This factory turbo hits 20 psi by about 3300 rpm and keeps pulling hard up to 6500 rpm where it can be seen losing steam. Below is the current timing map. I smoothed it out a bit using the smoothing excel sheet. Please let me know if you think it's too conservative or too aggressive and i'll make some changes.
Thanks for your help gents!
Starting to look like fun down low but that turbo is still too small for that engine. FWIW, the red around 4000 at 30+ makes about 500wtq+. I would consider 80% duty as maxing the boost controller/turbo out. Being maxed out over 5500 is showing the backpressure situation. You may want to shift the car at 7000-7500 or less. Timing is in the ballpark, you may not want to add timing as cylinder pressure is increasing .
Thanks man, as you can see i'm still trying to find my sweet spot for this car. I overshot it with that first turbo.
Originally Posted by Abacus
Starting to look like fun down low but that turbo is still too small for that engine. FWIW, the red around 4000 at 30+ makes about 500wtq+. I would consider 80% duty as maxing the boost controller/turbo out. Being maxed out over 5500 is showing the backpressure situation. You may want to shift the car at 7000-7500 or less. Timing is in the ballpark, you may not want to add timing as cylinder pressure is increasing .
Thank you for your feedback Abacus,
Believe me my friend, it is a blast to drive. It is even more fun to drive now than it was when it left the dyno thanks to bringing on the boost earlier. I understand that I could have gone with a bigger turbo, but thinking ahead, with this turbo I don't have to swap it out for smog and I still get all the power I need for a car driven 3 x a week. It will be much faster and far less messy to swap in the factory intake, UICP, downpipe, and cat, than it is to also swap in a manifold and turbo.
As far as the 80% duty cycle, I agree, it's maxed out and there is backpressure present as expected. I will likely back the 90 WGDC down and work within the realm of 80s and below to smooth out the power band. I usually shift the car between 6500 to 7000rpm to keep the 2.3L happy since the rod ratio is worse than stock. The 91 map is pretty much finalized and drives great. For E85, I might make a few changes just to experiment with timing a bit and polish the FlexFuel behaviors. A new clutch is on the way and I plan to do the first review of it on here . I just hope my replacement diff drive ring gear comes in from Jacks Trans this month so I can get my 5 speed back together.
I took the trans off today. After a quick inspection I found my disk had a metal strip broken off above a spring. It explains the pulsations and weird double engagement I was feeling.
The ACT 6 puck sprung is a good clutch, but even better for track cars or cars that are taken out once a week. It did not rattle embarrassingly like my Exedy twin or triple disks did and held good power. So, I have to give credit where credit is due. However, it really doesn't like to be slipped and doesn't last very long. ( 2 disks in about 30,000 miles at 650whp.) It wears out quicker when pushed to it's limits, but these puck disks seem to just fall apart around the rivets.
I really like my ACT tiwn. It drives nice and it feels stockish when driving. It holds up so far to the power I make so far although I am not beating on it all the time. I like it way more then my Exedy triple and it doesn't chatter.
I really like my ACT tiwn. It drives nice and it feels stockish when driving. It holds up so far to the power I make so far although I am not beating on it all the time. I like it way more then my Exedy triple and it doesn't chatter.
I hear and read very good things about that clutch! I'm never going to run an exedy triple again unless I have to because the center spline hub likes to wear into the friction disks over time. When I pulled mine a few years ago, it had just started to do that. The ACT twin mod does everything we need it to do and more. The only negative I've read about it is that for some, a metal tab on one of the floating disks can break off and cause problems. I don't think it's a common problem yet.
My current plan is to be a evom test mule for the Australian X Clutch, which is VERY similar to the ACT mod twin, but doesn't appear to have the metal tabs (could be noisier as a result). I'll do a full review of it on here.
Now that I'm switching back to the 5 speed, I get to put my short shifter back in. Not gonna lie, I missed it.
I see you pulled out the transmission without taking off the subframe. Whats the quickest way to separate the transfercase from the transmission?
Yup! I find it much easier to do this work by first removing the stupid radiator. Once you unbolt 3 of the 4 motor/trans mounts you can rock everything forward to give you space ( leave the driver side mount bolted up and support engine and trans with two jacks). The quickest way to separate the TC from the trans, once you have pulled the trans half shaft and removed the 6 bolts (+ banjo if ACD), is to go under the car and push up against it then up towards the passenger side. You will have to shake it off the trans, but use a pry bar to get it started. Once it's off, collect the small o-ring between the TC and trans and put it somewhere safe. After that, I use a ratchet strap to tie the TC to the passenger lower control arm to keep it from falling back against the trans and engine block.
I hear and read very good things about that clutch! I'm never going to run an exedy triple again unless I have to because the center spline hub likes to wear into the friction disks over time. When I pulled mine a few years ago, it had just started to do that. The ACT twin mod does everything we need it to do and more. The only negative I've read about it is that for some, a metal tab on one of the floating disks can break off and cause problems. I don't think it's a common problem yet.
My current plan is to be a evom test mule for the Australian X Clutch, which is VERY similar to the ACT mod twin, but doesn't appear to have the metal tabs (could be noisier as a result). I'll do a full review of it on here.
Now that I'm switching back to the 5 speed, I get to put my short shifter back in. Not gonna lie, I missed it.
I'm looking forward to your comments on this clutch setup. I looked at these before I went with the ACT
Last night I removed my center diff ring gear in order to replace it as it had a chipped tooth. 9/10 bolts came out stripped and galled to hell. I thought I was going to button this thing up this week and now I have to order new bolts. I don't want to play the blame game, but I had this 5 speed built by Shep trans between 2013 and 2016 so they were the last people who opened it. Could it be possible that somebody drove the bolts in with an impact and red loctite instead of starting the threads by hand? Perhaps they were not torqued to spec (98 ft lbs) and the diff housing itself wore the threads off by shifting back and forth? The strange part is that the threads in the diff housing were not bad at all. I chased them with a tap to clean out any remaining threadlocker. I'll likely install new carbon synchros and reshim for proper clearance while I am in there.
Last night I removed my center diff ring gear in order to replace it as it had a chipped tooth. 9/10 bolts came out stripped and galled to hell. I thought I was going to button this thing up this week and now I have to order new bolts. I don't want to play the blame game, but I had this 5 speed built by Shep trans between 2013 and 2016 so they were the last people who opened it. Could it be possible that somebody drove the bolts in with an impact and red loctite instead of starting the threads by hand? Perhaps they were not torqued to spec (98 ft lbs) and the diff housing itself wore the threads off by shifting back and forth? The strange part is that the threads in the diff housing were not bad at all. I chased them with a tap to clean out any remaining threadlocker. I'll likely install new carbon synchros and reshim for proper clearance while I am in there.
You have to break all of those loose, so the ring gear can float, then fully remove them.
The gear usually shifts on the housing. So if you zip them out one at a time with an impact, they get ****ed up.
Do not use carbon synchros. They tend to have issues. Get OEM stuff
You have to break all of those loose, so the ring gear can float, then fully remove them.
The gear usually shifts on the housing. So if you zip them out one at a time with an impact, they get ****ed up.
Do not use carbon synchros. They tend to have issues. Get OEM stuff
That just explained my entire night. Thank you for that lmao. Knowing now that the bolts could have been saved makes me feel so stupid that I deserved it.
The new center diff ring gear bolts came in and I got to continue reassembly of the 5 speed transmission! Its all back together without any more issues so far. Parts are now in the car and ready for a chill 500 mile break in.
The first 200 miles of break in are done and things are going well so far. The car is quiet enough now that I thought I heard some lifter tick taking place. I decided to install some GSC zero tick lifters as I've had only OEM up until this point (about 120,000 miles on them). I saw the old threads about problems with the GSC zero tick lifters keeping valves slightly open. However, if you buy them today, it seems they have remedied the issue. I read somewhere that they fixed this a while back actually, but they are still shown to be a bit risky on this forum. I will need to see for myself if they are any good.
The big problem was that the GSC lifters compressed height was higher than stock. The new version of their lifters are made such that the compressed range is slightly more lenient than stock. This not only helps people who's heads are out of spec (valve stem height and valve seat issues), but it makes sure the valves do not stay slightly open once the lifter is pumped full and solid. Here is a side by side measurement of the OEM lifter fully compressed vs the new version of the GSC lifters fully compressed. GSCs lifters will actually arrive soft from the packaging, but you should still bleed them anyway. After a loud startup and a nice drive to quiet them down, I don't see any AFR differences. I'll do a compression test sometime this week to verify that it is the same as before.
OEM LIFTER:
GSC "Zero Tick" LIFTER
Anyway, I thought this would help sooth the nerves of those looking to buy a set of these. They should work as well as OEM now, but i'll check compression soon.
Did a compression test today to verify that everything is cool with these GSC zero tick lifters. No compression was lost. I actually picked up about 4 psi compression in cylinder 2
So this confirms it. GSCs lifters are safe to use.
I recently picked up the Spoolin up/ Mrfred Speed Density harness for optional IAT sensor and factory map sensor. It plugs into the existing MAF connector on our cars.
The factory map sensor portion allows for active barometric adjustment when running speed density, as we have eliminated the factory MAF which automatically compensates for elevation.
All I need now is the Speed Density Active Barometric patch. If anybody out there has it, please do share. I already bought the harness and I'm willing to throw some paypal your way for a 6 pack of beer.
Jan 4, 2023, 10:03 AM
. I still need to take fuel out of some areas and perhaps richen a few, but the VD numbers are close to what I got on the Dynapack hub dyno. The difference is now the car REALLY get's up and goes early. More torque and much earlier. In fact, i'm not even sure it's safe haha.
factory turbo hits 20 psi by about 3300 rpm and keeps pulling hard up to 6500 rpm where it can be seen losing steam. Below is the current timing map. I smoothed it out a bit using the smoothing excel sheet. Please let me know if you think it's too conservative or too aggressive and i'll make some changes.
. I just hope my replacement diff drive ring gear comes in from Jacks Trans this month so I can get my 5 speed back together.
