Notices
Project Cars / Build Threads Please post your build threads here.

1998 Evolution V: "The Classroom"

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 14, 2020, 09:09 AM
  #1  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
1998 Evolution V: "The Classroom"

Believe Mark Twain said something like "Don't let the classroom get in the way of learning". This project takes a pointer from that advice...

We purchased a 1998 Mitsubishi Evolution V GSR, (JDM model) to educate my young assistant on how to plan, execute, and reap the fruits of one's labor as one brings an automobile back from the dead.

It is a 50,000 mile chassis that has been sitting for some duration with a failed powerplant. Tree sap and mold was the external color...but appeared to be solid underneath - no rust other than an area of surface corrosion on the trunk floor.


We know nothing about Mitsubishis, but do have some mechanical experience (not much!) and will look to the forum and google to get us thru the restoration of this 22 year old machine...little more challenging that we are located in Germany-not our native country.


My assistant is not of driving age, but the plan is for her to understand the challenges and enjoyment/satisfaction of seeing it come alive and then even learning to drive it (autocross first!). Maybe they will learn to take care of equipment, able to throw some redline shifts, and...not desire an electric car!

Of course if you read between the lines...I've had an interest at owning a Mitsubishi version of the great fun ralley-car-for-the-street, I just had to sell it a bit differently to the Chief Financial Officer to gain approval!

Wish us good luck!

Last edited by Tim M; Nov 16, 2020 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Spelling!
The following 10 users liked this post by Tim M:
codgi (Nov 23, 2020), ctfpevoVIII (Nov 15, 2020), EVO196 (Nov 16, 2020), Jahtoot (Jan 8, 2024), jetjockeyjosh (Apr 24, 2021), Nicolas (Nov 14, 2020), osetsky (Nov 14, 2020), Puppet (Apr 18, 2021), Rico Alonzo (Nov 27, 2020), uzumaki (Aug 19, 2021) and 5 others liked this post. (Show less...)
Old Nov 14, 2020, 09:31 AM
  #2  
EvoM Staff Alumni
iTrader: (3)
 
MinusPrevious's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: So.Cal
Posts: 7,704
Received 1,384 Likes on 1,317 Posts
Alright. Thanks for posting your story

Look fwd to seeing this V come back to life

Cheers, Joe
Old Nov 14, 2020, 12:14 PM
  #3  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
MinusPrevious: Thanks! We will see if we can get it running...the 500 piece puzzle will be a challenge.

The forum has already confirmed the turbo that came with the car is indeed an Evo 9...ideal for our plan:

Evo 9 Turbo


Also included was a Evo 6 engine block. Our machinist confirmed an 85.50 mm bore, gave a .1 mm deck cut to the block surface and gave it a clean bill of health.

The forum came to the rescue again with suggestions of a Mahle low expansion piston (4032 material) as we don't expect to exceed 450 CHP in top form. Compression will be near OEM depending how the cylinder head cleans up.

Mahle Piston

Parts backorders seem to be typical...
The following users liked this post:
Puppet (Apr 18, 2021)
Old Nov 15, 2020, 10:21 AM
  #4  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
Shot of the freshly decked Evo 6 block:


Lots of cleaning and polishing is taking place:


Wax on / Wax off:


As a baseline, we will likely send in the - appears to be original - fuel injectors for cleaning and new o-rings:


Admittedly, I hope to exceed their capacity ultimately, but will be a good set for the inspection/emissions review, if required:

We also pulled a wheel to inspect and investigate what we have...she does pretty good on the impact wrench!


A bit crusty...even with a bit of clean up:


Can anyone tell us what Bilstein coil over variant this might be? Hopefully they are usable:


We are planning on new wheel bearings, rotors, pads, brake lines (SS currently installed) and possibly some new ball joints, at least in the rear. We are also considering having the calipers rebuilt and recoated...brakes are a good investment!
The following users liked this post:
Puppet (Apr 18, 2021)
Old Nov 15, 2020, 03:43 PM
  #5  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (4)
 
ctfpevoVIII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: connecticut
Posts: 1,006
Received 66 Likes on 58 Posts
Originally Posted by Tim M
Believe Mark Twain said something like "Don't let the classroom get in the way of learning". This project takes a pointer from that advice...

We purchased a 1998 Mitsubishi Evolution V GSR, (JDM model) to educate my young assistant on how to plan, execute, and reap the fruits of one's labor as one brings an automobile back from the dead.

It is a 50,000 mile chassis that has been sitting for some duration with a failed powerplant. Tree sap and mold was the external color...but appeared to be solid underneath - no rust other than an area of surface corrosion on the truck floor.


We know nothing about Mitsubishis, but do have some experience (not much!) and will look to the forum and google to get us thru the restoration of this 22 year old machine...little more challenging that we are located in Germany-not our native country.



My assistant is not of driving age, but the plan is for her to understand the challenges and enjoyment/satisfaction of seeing it come alive and then even learning to drive it (autocross first!). Maybe they will learn to take care of equipment, able to throw some redline shifts, and...not desire an electric car!

Of course if you read between the lines...I've had an interest at owning a Mitsubishi version of the great fun ralley-car-for-the-street, I just had to sell it a bit differently to the Chief Financial Officer to gain approval!

Wish us good luck!
Beautiful car man best of luck with it!!
Old Nov 18, 2020, 12:59 PM
  #6  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
ctfpevoVIII: Thanks!

Nearly entire car has been waxed...overall, quite pleased at the lack of damage, etc. Some blended paint, few minor dents, so looks pretty good from 3 meters!

Ordered a number of internal parts to get the engine build going. We did elect to go with GSC I cams to replace the undetermined current Cosworth's and to make the car a bit more docile. A set of middle of the road GSC valve springs were included and will hopefully allow some 8000 rpm shifts, when needed.

Tonight was another big step - motor is nearly mounted on the stand (and off the dirty floor):


We also splurged on a bit of warmth as the days get colder:

The following users liked this post:
Puppet (Apr 18, 2021)
Old Nov 19, 2020, 12:16 PM
  #7  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
Contacted Oliver who was quite confident these connecting rods were theirs (no markings except the ARP bolt!).


I believe this is a very good rod that shouldn't require any machine work. Just pop in new bearing shells. We went one step further with a new set of bolts. $14 a piece! Yes they are quite specific and has one of the most critical jobs of an engine. One of these lets go...complete engine loss!

Oliver did state the conservative rpm limit is only 7500 rpm...I think we are quite safe with light weight pistons at 8000 rpm.
The following users liked this post:
Puppet (Apr 18, 2021)
Old Nov 19, 2020, 12:40 PM
  #8  
Evolving Member
 
german_evoVII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wiesbaden, germany
Posts: 184
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
Originally Posted by Tim M
Oliver did state the conservative rpm limit is only 7500 rpm...I think we are quite safe with light weight pistons at 8000 rpm.
Dont worry Tim, i using these rods in almost Engine build with no problems..
They are safe for 8500 in 2.0 and 7800 for 2.3 100mm strokers... long term Highway use or Racetrack / Timeattack.
I used them for many engines with classic JE´s, Woessner and CP pistons.
never had any problems with these.
There are 2 versions 9of the rods. The standard one is the beefier one, but from the looks i would say these are the Ultra lights.
Will check them tomorrow when i am back in the Workshop, i can post the weights of the 2 Versions.
Standard ones are good for 800 FWHP max, the UL´s for around 700 FWHP.
Above these limits i am using the Crowers...

BTW: Do not use race bearings for the engine if it isnt going ridicules horsepower. Use the OEM ones and blueprint it !!!
If you want any assistance, call or PM me. I have ANYTHING for these engines on stock ( TOP to BOTTOM ). I am located 30 KM north of Frankfurt / Main.
Also any instruments needed for blueprinting the engine. You can do the work by your own, but i will assist when needed.

Old Nov 21, 2020, 12:24 PM
  #9  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
german_evoVII: Great to hear! They do look and feel like quality units. We don't expect to exceed 450 CHP in this application...new driver will have limits! We do hope for 8000 rpm redline to keep things interesting.

Appreciate the offer - we may defer to the machinist for the blueprinting aspects. I only trust myself to bolt together the hard parts. :-)

Bearings: we selected King XP's for both rod and mains. They seem to be a quality bearing...this car will live on the street with a few Nurburgring laps if we succeed.
Old Nov 22, 2020, 03:30 AM
  #10  
Evolving Member
 
german_evoVII's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Wiesbaden, germany
Posts: 184
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
With the Race bearings you cant get an propper Oil clearance for Street and Track use without doing an mains bore and grinding the crank to spec!
They only come in STD size which is almost every time too much on the loose site. ( they have also an "looser" one with more clearance which will not apply for any used crank )
The stock OEM ones come in 5 different sizes for the mains and 3 for the rods, so you can adjust these almost perfect. ( STD and with LESS clearance )

Many Shops here use the race bearings only because its the easy going way... because you CANT adjust them in any way...( but charge the customer with " blue printing ")
Thats the reason i can offer you to come in and do the work by yourself... if your bearings will not fit.. you dont have to buy other ones in all different combinations.
You have the choice.. and only have to pay for the parts you actually use. ( i have all sizes on stock.. app 250 bearings )
Old Nov 26, 2020, 01:49 PM
  #11  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
german_evoVII: Ah - understand now! Quite an offer you have extended...some challenges with the distance and COVID restrictions may negate our acceptance. You do have a great point - likely our local machinist can accommodate as we don't need a loose engine...our low HP level should be on the long-life expectancy side with tighter clearances preferred. We will give this more thought.

Necessary, but most unpleasant is the fun of cleaning and cleaning. She is a good sport if not exactly detail orientated...yet!


The project came with a few nice parts - an Evo 9 turbo (appears relatively fresh):


Also Cosworth cams of unknown model (well exhaust is an M2, the intake it unknown...nonetheless, switching to a milder set of GSC 1 cams for a docile idle/tune:


We did locate a powdercoater north of Stuttgart...not sure how many speed camera fines I got today (speeds vary terribly in the city)...in hopes to return the spray painted valve cover to its original 'red-head' glory:


Hopefully once new/restored part arrive the enthusiasm will gain steam. The winter hibernation doesn't help either.
The following users liked this post:
Rico Alonzo (Nov 27, 2020)
Old Nov 27, 2020, 05:33 AM
  #12  
Newbie
 
Rico Alonzo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Japan
Posts: 1
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Just found your post. Good luck on bringing her back. I recently bought a V as well and I’ll be following your post and build.
Old Nov 28, 2020, 11:05 AM
  #13  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
Rico: Thanks...we will need all the help we can get!

Ordered some new front control arms (aluminum jobs) since they come with a new ball joint and two OEM bushings...tighten up the front end a bit.

We also took advantage of the above-freezing-day and attempted a cleaning of the floor mats - look OEM. Unfortunately, didn't realize we are missing the driverside! Oh well, assistants first foray into power washing...not easy for the little lady - they did turn out quite well:


Love the seats...nice tight bolsters and pretty darn good condition:


The trunk mounted AYC reservoir (there was fluid present!):


Before cleaning:


And this craziness...:


Have no idea what happened here..
The following users liked this post:
EVO196 (Dec 3, 2020)
Old Dec 2, 2020, 12:01 PM
  #14  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
Life getting in the way a bit...shiny parts beginning to arrive...very quick ship from Rossport!

Decided to splurge on the front arms - new bushings/ball joint replacing the current questionables:



Last edited by Tim M; Dec 2, 2020 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Spelling!
The following 2 users liked this post by Tim M:
EVO196 (Dec 3, 2020), huzzle101 (Dec 3, 2020)
Old Dec 6, 2020, 01:26 AM
  #15  
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
 
Tim M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Stuttgart
Posts: 249
Received 140 Likes on 93 Posts
Gainfully employed selling Christmas trees for the Boy Scouts...finally got a few minutes in the garage.

Inspection of the Evo 6 block highlighted more missing parts - piston oil squirters. Factory equipped in 1998...now missing on this replacement block. Unfortunately, not easily sourced (no longer available). Many say not required with forged pistons, but seems only logical to employ to reduce piston temps/knock resistance...or not if we can't find any:


One outfit offers high quality ball joints for the rear suspension. Car uses 3 per side on 3 different arms! This Evo 5 only has one rear suspension arm as aluminum with the other 2 as cast iron. We were tempted to just buy new OEM from the Evo 6 for all alloy suspension (and will probably regret it when no longer available), but th eprice was ~$250 each! We have access to a full press so another teaching moment in the manner of big forces...these were sure packaged nicely...


Oliver Rods came thru with a replacement set of ARP 2000/Oliver rod bolts. They made a special trip to get these to us - thanks!


Finally, new Brembo caliper bolts - originals are unknown in condition and after planned professionally refinishing the calipers...desired no hassle install:



Quick Reply: 1998 Evolution V: "The Classroom"



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:31 AM.