Mark this thread as Unsold
FS: Evo IX 2.1L BR 56k miles
Nov 22, 2010, 10:46 AM
#1
FS: Evo IX 2.1L BR 56k miles
Regrettably I am putting my AS 2006 IX up for sale. She has just over 56,000 miles on the clock, and believe it or not still still has the warranty in tact. I just had the ACD pump replaced a month back, and the papers to prove it. I recently got a new job, with more responsibility and traveling so I don't have the time or money to play around with her anymore, my loss is your gain.
I have been the sole owner of this car, so it has never been neglected, and has always received the best parts and labor possible. I drove it off the lot in early 2007 with 30 miles on it. After adding up all of the money invested I am over 30,000 just in parts alone. Trust me when I say this, that there was not a dollar spared during this entire build.
As the car sits, it is making 550/500 on a Dyno Dynamics with a FP Red @ 32psi on E-85 and Speed Density. I am confident I could hit 600whp if motivated, but never wanted to abuse the car or turbo. It could rev to the moon, but has only seen 9,000 rpm a few times this was on the dyno. I never take it over 7500-8000 on the street. It has never been launched.
This Buschur Racing 2.1L is a hell of a motor, and could take anything you can throw at it. David Buschur himself used this motor/head in the BadBish for quite some time, and is capable of 700+whp. All you would need is a different turbo and tune and you could make this as fast as you want. Everything is in place. My goal was just a fast as hell street car that maintained daily drivability and I believe I achieved that goal.
The mods list is as follows:
Buschur Racing 2.1L 4G64 (Manley I-beam rods, BR Manley Pistons, ARP Main, L19 studs, Fluidampr)
Buschur Racing Stage 3 Head (HKS 272 cams, Fidenza Adjutable Ex cam gear)
Shep Ultimate-Ratio 5 speed
Exedy Twin HD (STM fork stop, SS clutch line, BR underhood and shifter bushings)
Full Race Exhaust Manifold (coated 1600 degree silver)
FP Red 84mm Ported (BR SS O2, 25# WGA, Custom 4" Intake, K&N 5" filter)
ETS 4" FMIC + Full short pipe setup (Tial QR BOV, custom 2 port -6AN oil catch setup, small battery)
Lightly ported TB (Mil.Spec TB Shaft seals)
Invidia 3" DP
ARC Titanium Exhaust (this exhaust is the rarest for the Evo, over $3,500 new!)
Mynes Titanium Test-Pipe (buyer will get a Mil.Spec 100cell CAT also)
Full Blown E-85 DP (Purple, twin walbros just replaced last week (preventative maintenance), Fuel Lab FPR, AMS Fuel Rail)
ID 2000cc Injectors (around 1,000 new)
Dynatek ARC-2 CDI w/coils
Omni 4 Bar MAP and GM IAT sensor (used SpoolinUP SD harness, so there is an option for a Baro sensor also)
Girodisc 2-pc lightweight rotors (SS brake lines, Motul 600 fluid)
Ferodo 2500 pads w/ shims
Robispec KW v3 Custom Clubsports
Three month old Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec
Rear sway bar (upper and lower)
Evo IX SE front lip
Evo IX JDM Rear
Yakima Roof Rack w/Big Powder Hound board holder
Shorty antenna
Panasonic Flip up touch screen (Nav capable, XM and iPod setup)
4 x Alpine Type R 6.5" speakers for doors and rear (crossovers w/ tweeters in front, internal tweeters in rear 6.5s)
Alpine Type R 10" Sub
Alpine 1000watt amp for surround sound system
Alpine 800 watt amp for sub
Dynamat was added to prevent road noise and really make this a hell of a sounding system. It was professionally installed, and sounds great.
Autometer glove box gauge setup (3x gauge pod)
AEM Oil Pressure
AEM Boost/Vac gauge
AEM Wideband O2
Zietronix Ethanol Gauge
Viper Smart-Start alarm
- This system has 2 keys and 2 FOBs. I have it setup to remote start from my Android phone (works with iPhone, too). It can also alert your phone via text if it was hit or broken into. This is the nicest alarm system you can get for a car. The automatic starter comes in handy in the cold, too. NEVER drive these cars under boost until they are warmed up all the way.
I will attach more high resolution shots when I get home from work, if your looking for something in particular, just ask for it.
All of this has been setup to run Speed Density and also log Boost and AFR values through the stock OBDII. A dual map switch is installed and you have the option to run E-85 or 93 octane. I will include the maps themselves with purchase
There is a dent in the front lip (needs repainted), a rock chip in the hood, and a minor scratch on the drivers side of the roof (could be buffed out). Three of the four wheels have minor road rash, but could be repaired (i've been told). The car is in mint condition, has been kept in a heated garage almost all of its life. The title and CarFax are clean, I own the car outright, so am not in a huge hurry to sell.
VIN#: JA3AH86C16U014454
There has been maybe 3,000 miles put on the car since the engine build, so everything is fresh and ready to rock. On the stock motor I used Mobil 10W30 EP, now I use Brad Penn 20w50 for summer and Amsoil 10w30 for winter use on 93 octane.
With the purchase I will include a set of season old Dunlop WinterSport 3Ds, my Tactrix 2.0 cable with 1 GB micro SD card for remote logging and my tuning laptop, a HP Mini.
I would much rather prefer to sell the car as is and not part everything out. I am firm on the price, but will entertain minor trades with cash on the sellers part. I am looking to buy a 2010 Land Rover LR4, so I am moving over to the SUV world. Time to focus on my job and less on the motorsports world.
I would like to get 29,000 for it. Serious inquiries only, if you have bad things to say then please don't post in this thread. PM me your questions/offers.
I have been the sole owner of this car, so it has never been neglected, and has always received the best parts and labor possible. I drove it off the lot in early 2007 with 30 miles on it. After adding up all of the money invested I am over 30,000 just in parts alone. Trust me when I say this, that there was not a dollar spared during this entire build.
As the car sits, it is making 550/500 on a Dyno Dynamics with a FP Red @ 32psi on E-85 and Speed Density. I am confident I could hit 600whp if motivated, but never wanted to abuse the car or turbo. It could rev to the moon, but has only seen 9,000 rpm a few times this was on the dyno. I never take it over 7500-8000 on the street. It has never been launched.
This Buschur Racing 2.1L is a hell of a motor, and could take anything you can throw at it. David Buschur himself used this motor/head in the BadBish for quite some time, and is capable of 700+whp. All you would need is a different turbo and tune and you could make this as fast as you want. Everything is in place. My goal was just a fast as hell street car that maintained daily drivability and I believe I achieved that goal.
The mods list is as follows:
Buschur Racing 2.1L 4G64 (Manley I-beam rods, BR Manley Pistons, ARP Main, L19 studs, Fluidampr)
Buschur Racing Stage 3 Head (HKS 272 cams, Fidenza Adjutable Ex cam gear)
Shep Ultimate-Ratio 5 speed
Exedy Twin HD (STM fork stop, SS clutch line, BR underhood and shifter bushings)
Full Race Exhaust Manifold (coated 1600 degree silver)
FP Red 84mm Ported (BR SS O2, 25# WGA, Custom 4" Intake, K&N 5" filter)
ETS 4" FMIC + Full short pipe setup (Tial QR BOV, custom 2 port -6AN oil catch setup, small battery)
Lightly ported TB (Mil.Spec TB Shaft seals)
Invidia 3" DP
ARC Titanium Exhaust (this exhaust is the rarest for the Evo, over $3,500 new!)
Mynes Titanium Test-Pipe (buyer will get a Mil.Spec 100cell CAT also)
Full Blown E-85 DP (Purple, twin walbros just replaced last week (preventative maintenance), Fuel Lab FPR, AMS Fuel Rail)
ID 2000cc Injectors (around 1,000 new)
Dynatek ARC-2 CDI w/coils
Omni 4 Bar MAP and GM IAT sensor (used SpoolinUP SD harness, so there is an option for a Baro sensor also)
Girodisc 2-pc lightweight rotors (SS brake lines, Motul 600 fluid)
Ferodo 2500 pads w/ shims
Robispec KW v3 Custom Clubsports
Three month old Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec
Rear sway bar (upper and lower)
Evo IX SE front lip
Evo IX JDM Rear
Yakima Roof Rack w/Big Powder Hound board holder
Shorty antenna
Panasonic Flip up touch screen (Nav capable, XM and iPod setup)
4 x Alpine Type R 6.5" speakers for doors and rear (crossovers w/ tweeters in front, internal tweeters in rear 6.5s)
Alpine Type R 10" Sub
Alpine 1000watt amp for surround sound system
Alpine 800 watt amp for sub
Dynamat was added to prevent road noise and really make this a hell of a sounding system. It was professionally installed, and sounds great.
Autometer glove box gauge setup (3x gauge pod)
AEM Oil Pressure
AEM Boost/Vac gauge
AEM Wideband O2
Zietronix Ethanol Gauge
Viper Smart-Start alarm
- This system has 2 keys and 2 FOBs. I have it setup to remote start from my Android phone (works with iPhone, too). It can also alert your phone via text if it was hit or broken into. This is the nicest alarm system you can get for a car. The automatic starter comes in handy in the cold, too. NEVER drive these cars under boost until they are warmed up all the way.
I will attach more high resolution shots when I get home from work, if your looking for something in particular, just ask for it.
All of this has been setup to run Speed Density and also log Boost and AFR values through the stock OBDII. A dual map switch is installed and you have the option to run E-85 or 93 octane. I will include the maps themselves with purchase
There is a dent in the front lip (needs repainted), a rock chip in the hood, and a minor scratch on the drivers side of the roof (could be buffed out). Three of the four wheels have minor road rash, but could be repaired (i've been told). The car is in mint condition, has been kept in a heated garage almost all of its life. The title and CarFax are clean, I own the car outright, so am not in a huge hurry to sell.
VIN#: JA3AH86C16U014454
There has been maybe 3,000 miles put on the car since the engine build, so everything is fresh and ready to rock. On the stock motor I used Mobil 10W30 EP, now I use Brad Penn 20w50 for summer and Amsoil 10w30 for winter use on 93 octane.
With the purchase I will include a set of season old Dunlop WinterSport 3Ds, my Tactrix 2.0 cable with 1 GB micro SD card for remote logging and my tuning laptop, a HP Mini.
I would much rather prefer to sell the car as is and not part everything out. I am firm on the price, but will entertain minor trades with cash on the sellers part. I am looking to buy a 2010 Land Rover LR4, so I am moving over to the SUV world. Time to focus on my job and less on the motorsports world.
I would like to get 29,000 for it. Serious inquiries only, if you have bad things to say then please don't post in this thread. PM me your questions/offers.
Last edited by buchnerj; Mar 14, 2011 at 08:43 PM.
Nov 23, 2010, 06:59 AM
#3
I can arrange shipping if the buyer isn't local or within driving distance. Also, if there are a few things on the car which don't meet your liking I can take them off and convert them to stock. The price can be managed accordingly also. This is minor bolt-ons and interior/exterior stuff also, no changing the block or major components.
Mar 14, 2011, 08:45 PM
#11
Price updated. Got a new job and won't have any time to work on her/enjoy her. Price is OBO, I will accept offers, but don't insult me.
Miles are now Motor ~7500 and Chassis just over 60,000.
Drives great. Working on the tune and will switch back over to E-85 when the warm weather comes through.
Miles are now Motor ~7500 and Chassis just over 60,000.
Drives great. Working on the tune and will switch back over to E-85 when the warm weather comes through.
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