Mark this thread as Unsold
FS: (UT) 2006 EVO IX Widebody Racecar - $25k
#1
FS: (UT) 2006 EVO IX Widebody Racecar - $22k
EVO will be available until 12/31/13 at a final, very firm, $22k.
If it does not sell by then, I am pulling it off the market and begin prep for 2014 race season.
I am posting this to see if there's any real interest. I am itching to build a new RWD-V8 chassis next. Serious inquires only, and please don't waste my time asking if this can be made street legal again. It is a purpose built and dedicated track car.
Chassis/Suspension
5,717 original miles (not a typo)
6pt roll cage (nascar style door bars, gusseted, harness bar, etc)
-NASA approved/stamped for wheel to wheel racing
Tein Super Racing 2-way adjustable coilovers
Cusco adjustable rear sway bar
Modified front sway bar for adjustability
Whiteline front roll center kit (ball joints/tie rod ends)
Various other chassis bushings
Race alignment/corner balance via RaceCo
Exterior/Aero
Voltex replica widebody kit
Molded rear 1/4 panels, modified front fender wheel exits
Matte white/black painted inside/out
Kognition 72" chassis mounted wing
Splitter frame (aluminum) is chassis mounted via 4 easy bolts
Alumalite used for splitter material, with front diffuser sections
APR rear diffuser
APR GT3 mirrors
Carbon fibre headlight deletes
Lexan windshield
Lexan rear door windows
Aerocatch latches for hood
-EVO MR has aluminum hood and roof
Latched trunk lid and gutted
Brake/Wheel
Brembo GT 355mm front Big Brake Kit
Pagid yellow's front and rear brake pads
ARP extended lug studs f/r
Muteki open end lugs
Castrol SRF Racing fluid
Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
Deleted ABS system w/OEM EVO RS master cylinder/hard lines
Enkei NT03+M 18x10.5 +30
Continental Grand Am 275/35-18
Engine Compartment
Front clip modified to be removable for easy working access
Forward tilting radiator/IC setup
Griffin aluminum radiator
-dual pass, AN fittings, dual SPAL fans
Mocal oil cooler w/HKS thermostat
Summit power steering cooler/reservoir
CX Racing intercooler core
Custom built IC piping
-(short route and minimal silicone joints)
4" intake w/large K&N filter
Grimmspeed PNP service and thermal coated:
-intake manifold
-throttle body
-exhaust manifold
-OEM IX turbo
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
FIC 1150cc Injectors
DW 300lph Fuel Pump
Speed density converted
Omnipower 4bar map sensor
AEM intake air temp sensor
Valve cover breathers to catch can setup
Custom solid aluminum engine/trans mounts
ACT sprung 6 puck clutch pressure plate
Six-States ceramic/ceramic padded disc
OEM flywheel
Safety Items
*all current to 2013 NASA rules w/log book
Recaro race bucket
I/O port seat brace
Safecraft 6pt HANS harness
Safecraft window net
Fire extinguisher
Remote battery cutoff
(dog not included)
Misc. Other
Completely gutted f/r doors
Sparco steering wheel
Splash steering hub
Splash quick release
Wide angle race mirror
AMS lightweight battery
-mounted to rear passenger floor
AMB hardwired transponder
Bypassed ignition system with switches
Glowshift digital gauges
-oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, boost, wideband AFR
Wiring harness has been stripped down to the bare necessities
Weight: 2,700 pounds with no fuel, no driver
Power: 320hp/290tq (91 oct and 20psi)
Was previously running on E85 making about 370hp on stock engine but has been detuned for class rules. Made 407hp on previous built engine, high comp, 2.0 bore and stock cams, 28psi E85.
This car is very competitive and I have done well every time I’ve competed. Here are my personal best times around local Utah track, Miller Motorsports Park, to give an idea of the pace. There is still some time to be improved on for sure, with some more seat time and minor setup adjustments and testing. Each time I have gone out in the car, I have posted a faster time than the previous time I was in it.
Outer Loop - 2:05.882
East Track - 1:43.093
West Track - 1:36.609
Full Track - 3:11.940
Needs: The radiator should be replaced. I got a puncture in the bottom section of it so the lowest 3-4 rows are bypassed. It does not leak, and the car runs perfectly fine as is, but I would suggest replacing it still. The front end has some crude card board and duct tape parts to seal up holes for ducting. I would like this to be done more legit, but it works. Side skirts aren't painted (obviously) but I have the matching paint I will include. Last, I have a quirky wiring issues that make the tach not work. I believe this is a grounding issue, but I just haven’t spent any time looking over it yet. This does not affect how the car runs/tunes/etc, just no tach reading. That’s honestly the only things on the car that need to be addressed. It is running super solid right now, and I just ran this last race weekend with not a single issue.
Link to a ton more photos here: http://s812.photobucket.com/user/pcs...?sort=6&page=1
10/26/13 Track day video here:
Please contact me with any questions on the car. I am happy to show it to anyone interested at my house, you can come see it and hear it run/etc. Unfortunately there is not much availability for a test drive, although I would be willing to trailer it out to MMP to drive around the paddock area/back roads. I can also arrange to have it running on the dyno at Ziptie Dynowerks in SLC. This will only be for serious buyers in the final steps of purchase, I can’t do this for every person.
I have gone through many ups and downs with this car over the last few years. I have had many "hard lessons" to learn that ultimately resulted in almost all the problems I've had. I feel confident in the car’s current condition, which is reliable and you can go have some fun in it. The only reason I am considering selling is to switch to a different platform that is RWD and V8 powered. I also will not sell this to a person I don’t feel will take proper care and use of it, I have put way too much of my time and passion into this build to get wasted in the wrong hands.
Thanks for the read, please spread the word to anyone looking for a serious racecar.
801.633.1187 (text is best, if you call and I don’t answer, you must leave a voicemail)
Email: brendon.stewart21@gmail.com
VIN: JA3AH86C86U036600
Clean and clear title, in hand.
$25,000
$22,000 FIRM
Comes with everything listed above. The car alone (stock) blue books for about $23k NADA value, which is what you can get a loan for (plus up to an additional 25%). To replicate this car, you should plan on spending around $35k on top of the price of a stock evo.
I have lots of OEM parts/extras/spares I can include with the purchase for additional costs, which I can talk with the buyer about if interested. These will alternatively be for sale separately. Some items include:
- Spare 5 speed transmission
- EVO IX head (upgraded springs/valves/etc)
- AMS/Moroso aluminum baffled oil pan
- MB Weapons 18x8 +30
- Hoosier Wet's 225/40-18
If it does not sell by then, I am pulling it off the market and begin prep for 2014 race season.
I am posting this to see if there's any real interest. I am itching to build a new RWD-V8 chassis next. Serious inquires only, and please don't waste my time asking if this can be made street legal again. It is a purpose built and dedicated track car.
Chassis/Suspension
5,717 original miles (not a typo)
6pt roll cage (nascar style door bars, gusseted, harness bar, etc)
-NASA approved/stamped for wheel to wheel racing
Tein Super Racing 2-way adjustable coilovers
Cusco adjustable rear sway bar
Modified front sway bar for adjustability
Whiteline front roll center kit (ball joints/tie rod ends)
Various other chassis bushings
Race alignment/corner balance via RaceCo
Exterior/Aero
Voltex replica widebody kit
Molded rear 1/4 panels, modified front fender wheel exits
Matte white/black painted inside/out
Kognition 72" chassis mounted wing
Splitter frame (aluminum) is chassis mounted via 4 easy bolts
Alumalite used for splitter material, with front diffuser sections
APR rear diffuser
APR GT3 mirrors
Carbon fibre headlight deletes
Lexan windshield
Lexan rear door windows
Aerocatch latches for hood
-EVO MR has aluminum hood and roof
Latched trunk lid and gutted
Brake/Wheel
Brembo GT 355mm front Big Brake Kit
Pagid yellow's front and rear brake pads
ARP extended lug studs f/r
Muteki open end lugs
Castrol SRF Racing fluid
Grimmspeed master cylinder brace
Deleted ABS system w/OEM EVO RS master cylinder/hard lines
Enkei NT03+M 18x10.5 +30
Continental Grand Am 275/35-18
Engine Compartment
Front clip modified to be removable for easy working access
Forward tilting radiator/IC setup
Griffin aluminum radiator
-dual pass, AN fittings, dual SPAL fans
Mocal oil cooler w/HKS thermostat
Summit power steering cooler/reservoir
CX Racing intercooler core
Custom built IC piping
-(short route and minimal silicone joints)
4" intake w/large K&N filter
Grimmspeed PNP service and thermal coated:
-intake manifold
-throttle body
-exhaust manifold
-OEM IX turbo
Grimmspeed 3-port EBCS
FIC 1150cc Injectors
DW 300lph Fuel Pump
Speed density converted
Omnipower 4bar map sensor
AEM intake air temp sensor
Valve cover breathers to catch can setup
Custom solid aluminum engine/trans mounts
ACT sprung 6 puck clutch pressure plate
Six-States ceramic/ceramic padded disc
OEM flywheel
Safety Items
*all current to 2013 NASA rules w/log book
Recaro race bucket
I/O port seat brace
Safecraft 6pt HANS harness
Safecraft window net
Fire extinguisher
Remote battery cutoff
(dog not included)
Misc. Other
Completely gutted f/r doors
Sparco steering wheel
Splash steering hub
Splash quick release
Wide angle race mirror
AMS lightweight battery
-mounted to rear passenger floor
AMB hardwired transponder
Bypassed ignition system with switches
Glowshift digital gauges
-oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, boost, wideband AFR
Wiring harness has been stripped down to the bare necessities
Weight: 2,700 pounds with no fuel, no driver
Power: 320hp/290tq (91 oct and 20psi)
Was previously running on E85 making about 370hp on stock engine but has been detuned for class rules. Made 407hp on previous built engine, high comp, 2.0 bore and stock cams, 28psi E85.
This car is very competitive and I have done well every time I’ve competed. Here are my personal best times around local Utah track, Miller Motorsports Park, to give an idea of the pace. There is still some time to be improved on for sure, with some more seat time and minor setup adjustments and testing. Each time I have gone out in the car, I have posted a faster time than the previous time I was in it.
Outer Loop - 2:05.882
East Track - 1:43.093
West Track - 1:36.609
Full Track - 3:11.940
Needs: The radiator should be replaced. I got a puncture in the bottom section of it so the lowest 3-4 rows are bypassed. It does not leak, and the car runs perfectly fine as is, but I would suggest replacing it still. The front end has some crude card board and duct tape parts to seal up holes for ducting. I would like this to be done more legit, but it works. Side skirts aren't painted (obviously) but I have the matching paint I will include. Last, I have a quirky wiring issues that make the tach not work. I believe this is a grounding issue, but I just haven’t spent any time looking over it yet. This does not affect how the car runs/tunes/etc, just no tach reading. That’s honestly the only things on the car that need to be addressed. It is running super solid right now, and I just ran this last race weekend with not a single issue.
Link to a ton more photos here: http://s812.photobucket.com/user/pcs...?sort=6&page=1
10/26/13 Track day video here:
Please contact me with any questions on the car. I am happy to show it to anyone interested at my house, you can come see it and hear it run/etc. Unfortunately there is not much availability for a test drive, although I would be willing to trailer it out to MMP to drive around the paddock area/back roads. I can also arrange to have it running on the dyno at Ziptie Dynowerks in SLC. This will only be for serious buyers in the final steps of purchase, I can’t do this for every person.
I have gone through many ups and downs with this car over the last few years. I have had many "hard lessons" to learn that ultimately resulted in almost all the problems I've had. I feel confident in the car’s current condition, which is reliable and you can go have some fun in it. The only reason I am considering selling is to switch to a different platform that is RWD and V8 powered. I also will not sell this to a person I don’t feel will take proper care and use of it, I have put way too much of my time and passion into this build to get wasted in the wrong hands.
Thanks for the read, please spread the word to anyone looking for a serious racecar.
801.633.1187 (text is best, if you call and I don’t answer, you must leave a voicemail)
Email: brendon.stewart21@gmail.com
VIN: JA3AH86C86U036600
Clean and clear title, in hand.
$25,000
$22,000 FIRM
Comes with everything listed above. The car alone (stock) blue books for about $23k NADA value, which is what you can get a loan for (plus up to an additional 25%). To replicate this car, you should plan on spending around $35k on top of the price of a stock evo.
I have lots of OEM parts/extras/spares I can include with the purchase for additional costs, which I can talk with the buyer about if interested. These will alternatively be for sale separately. Some items include:
- Spare 5 speed transmission
- EVO IX head (upgraded springs/valves/etc)
- AMS/Moroso aluminum baffled oil pan
- MB Weapons 18x8 +30
- Hoosier Wet's 225/40-18
Last edited by PCSkiBum_21; Dec 3, 2013 at 02:51 PM.
#3
Bump for a great car and a Great seller! Great local guys that has done well when competing locally for sure
Good luck with the sale and at a very fair price for a well built car
-Dallin
Good luck with the sale and at a very fair price for a well built car
-Dallin
#6
Thank you
Woot woot, got the RSD support
No it is 5 speed, and i have a second 5 speed.
The front sway and links are stock, just has secondary holes in the bar for the links to bolt to. Holes are forward from original so it is stiffer. I haven't had any reason to upgrade further from there right now. As with all projects, they are never ending and there have been other things to address on the priority/budget list for me.
No it is 5 speed, and i have a second 5 speed.
The front sway and links are stock, just has secondary holes in the bar for the links to bolt to. Holes are forward from original so it is stiffer. I haven't had any reason to upgrade further from there right now. As with all projects, they are never ending and there have been other things to address on the priority/budget list for me.