I'm in the position where I have to sell my one owner GG IX MR w/ appearance package. Mechanically the car is sound but it's been sitting in the elements for a couple of years and the sun has taken a toll on the paint on the roof, hood, wing and calipers. That's really the only issue with the car.

I need to get $19k for it, which includes the original BBS wheels in the black diamond finish. I have the title in hand ready to sign over. I bought the car new in Sept. '06 and it was my daily for years and has been autocrossed for several seasons. It's been on track for about 15 laps total ... that stuff was too expensive for me. lol

The car is tuned for 93 and E85 using Tephra 5.1 and makes around 355 on pump and 400 on E85. Stock turbo and cams. Original engine with ~75,600 miles and original 6-speed trans. The timing belt has not been swapped yet, so that would need to be done in the next 10k or so.

Comprehensive photos of the car, including all issues with the paint, can be found here: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhKZA6QE4k6S8wYOGzjlVean0x2q

Mod list:

• OE engine, cams, turbo, trans, head, etc. Valve cover has never been off.
• Walboro 255 pump
• Precision 1000cc injectors
• Evo X 3-bar MAP
• Injen UICP and intake
• 5" K&N filter with custom adapter from MPFab
• Custom LICP
• eBay FMIC
• Mishimoto Radiator
• Samco radiator hoses
• Denso 1-step colder iridium plugs (brand new)
• Nisei small battery box w/ new Odyssey PC680
• 3-port EBC solenoid
• GFB Stealth FX Hybrid BOV/DV
• Greddy Turbo Timer
• OEM MR center gauges
• Sony head unit w/ BT
• Upgraded speakers (can't remember the models)
• eBay rear strut bar
• Whiteline sway bars (F/R)
• Whiteline bump steer bushings and roll center correction ball joints
• Energy Suspension gull bushing kit (aside from bump steer on real LCAs)
• - This includes the diff and mustache bar bushings which makes the diff pretty loud
• OEM diff
• DBA 4000 front discs
• EBC Yellowstuff past up frount
• Ferodo DS2500 pads in rear
• Braided brake lines
• ATE brake fluid
• Amsoil fluids in engine, trans, TC and diff
• Spec Stage 3 clutch
• Gruppe-S light flywheel
• Aluminum shifter base bushings
• Fortune Auto 510 seris coilovers with 9k/10k springs
• EPM O2 dump
• Modified TTP downpipe (flex section removed after rubbing a hole in oil pan)
• eBay test pipe (modified to be extended and add bung for wideband)
• Monster Sport exhaust (JDM fit so it was short, hence extended TP. But that also makes it align funky with the hangers)
• 35% tint
• Front and rear engine mounts
• Currently on Rota Torque wheels painted blue and Conti DWS all-seasons
• - $19k includes the OEM BBS wheels with SE finish (the finish isn't perfect as they traveled and had tires swapped for Autocross frequently)
• Innovate LC-1 wideband (wired to USB port in console)
• Tuned for 93 and E85 at 355/400 whp respectively (toggle switch in console)

Includes the OEM undertray (cut to fit the upgraded FMIC) and a custom carbon undertray that I made with air dam, brake ducting and all the OEM cooling appointments.

All MR and SE appointments are in tact ... front lip, air dam, brake cooling scoops, vortex generator, wickerbill on wing.

The issues:

• Needs paint. Roof and hood are in rough shape from sun. Wing clear is chipping. VG was rattlecanned a while back as it was done for.
• With the BOV that's on there, it gets a "flutter" if you hold steady throttle with some boost, like up a hill in high gear or on the hwy at 80+. Not an issue when driving hard or when you learn to deal with it. But it's adjustable to correct if you want and I have the OEM valve as well.
• The OEM center gauges have a loose ground in one of the plugs so they will sometimes flatline.
• Smells like coolant after a drive but I can't find a leak. I had a SS upper hose on it for a while and it didn't seal well and leaked, and the rad failed too. All that's been changed and it still smells but doesn't lose water. I think it's just dried coolant that's not been cleaned off, although I've tried.
• The OEM battery failed and got acid in the engine bay. The top of the trans, shift weight, engine mount and some small areas on shock tower have corrosion (see pics). There are just some specs on the painted areas, but the bare aluminum is oxidized a bit. I painted the engine mount and shift weight when I did the clutch last but it's not pristine anymore.
• The rear diff is noisy when not loaded. It started 5 years ago immediately after the bushing install. I'm certain that' it's just transferring noise to chassis due to the bushings, but I know it's a concern for some.
• Small hail dent on trunk. 3 or 4 small door dings. A few damages areas on paint aside from sun damage (in photos)
• The outer window seals have some spots on them from being in the weather for a while (in photos).
• The OEM wheels were race wheels and have scuffs from being moved often and a couple have damage from tire changers. One center cap is cracked from falling.
• The Spec clutch groans if you slip it. I think it's a characteristic of the material, but it sounds terrible. I've heard it on other cars with that clutch as well. It holds power fine. Lots of slip and you can feel it in the pedal as noise gets louder.

This car will be sold this week and is priced to sell. If you want a pristine IX this is not for you. If you want a damn good base for a track/autocross car it's perfect. IT's also still a great deal if you want to paint it for a couple thousand and have a great low mileage IX. My plan was to just do a wrap on the hood/roof and roll with it, I just never got around to it.

 

UPDATE: Getting quotes from dealers to sell it that way, so if you want it let me know.