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Group Buy Dominick Irragi High Output Alternator for Evolutions
Nov 23, 2007, 04:44 AM
#91
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Not yet, with the holliday season all of the shippers are slow. These were shipped out the exact same day that the majority of retail stores had their orders shipped for the after thanksgiving sales.
I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't start to show up till early next week.
I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't start to show up till early next week.
Nov 27, 2007, 06:19 PM
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I got an E-mail confirmation that it was shipped, however when I got home, my alternator was sitting on the porch. I think the E-mail confirmations went out a bit late.
I will write a post tomorrow evening with "how to" build an upgraded alternator cable.
This weekend, I will try and post a how-to on changing the alternator. I have read on this board that some people have made it very easy by removing the front right half-shaft...
I will let you know ASAP
I will write a post tomorrow evening with "how to" build an upgraded alternator cable.
This weekend, I will try and post a how-to on changing the alternator. I have read on this board that some people have made it very easy by removing the front right half-shaft...
I will let you know ASAP
Nov 27, 2007, 09:42 PM
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evo, I am in FL, which usually is just a 2 day shipping from TN, you are like 4 days. and remember I said they were "starting to" ship. Meaning that they all didn't go out at the same time. I believe Dom may be working his way down the list.
Don't worry people, they will be there soon :-)
Don't worry people, they will be there soon :-)
Nov 27, 2007, 09:54 PM
#97
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evo, I am in FL, which usually is just a 2 day shipping from TN, you are like 4 days. and remember I said they were "starting to" ship. Meaning that they all didn't go out at the same time. I believe Dom may be working his way down the list.
Don't worry people, they will be there soon :-)
Don't worry people, they will be there soon :-)
Nov 28, 2007, 07:56 PM
#98
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Sorry guys, didn't get to the cable how-to today, work issues, and the lack of availability of copper lug ends here in Bum-F florida have put a slow down on the post.
In reading the instructions from Dominick, He says to run a 4 gauge wire parallell the factory alternator wire (from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. He says then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the alternator body to the "frame" of the vehicle (I believe this to mean the box-section of our unibodies), then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the same mounting point on the chassis. Then ANOTHER wire parallel with the factory wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the factory mounting point.
Now, this means there are 4 wires.
1 alternator (+) post ------------> Battery (+) post (in addition fo factory)
2 alternator chassis ------------> mounting point on box section of frame
3 battery (-) post -----------------> mounting point on box section of frame
4 battery (-) post -----------------> factory groung point (in addition to factory)
However I was considering rather than running 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire, just replacing it with 1/0 gauge wire. I have found some sweet, ULTRA flexible 1/0 wire, but it's rather pricy at about $12 per foot. It seems that my initial $10 estimate for the wires was a little optimistic. even the 4 gauge wire was $3 per foot!
I will still be offering to build the wires for people at cost of materials and shipping, I will also post that how-to for those that want to do it yourself. The how-to will have all the lengths and parts/materials needed.
I will make two options one with 4 gauge to piggy back the factory wire, and one with 1/0 gauge to replace the factory wire.
In reading the instructions from Dominick, He says to run a 4 gauge wire parallell the factory alternator wire (from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. He says then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the alternator body to the "frame" of the vehicle (I believe this to mean the box-section of our unibodies), then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the same mounting point on the chassis. Then ANOTHER wire parallel with the factory wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the factory mounting point.
Now, this means there are 4 wires.
1 alternator (+) post ------------> Battery (+) post (in addition fo factory)
2 alternator chassis ------------> mounting point on box section of frame
3 battery (-) post -----------------> mounting point on box section of frame
4 battery (-) post -----------------> factory groung point (in addition to factory)
However I was considering rather than running 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire, just replacing it with 1/0 gauge wire. I have found some sweet, ULTRA flexible 1/0 wire, but it's rather pricy at about $12 per foot. It seems that my initial $10 estimate for the wires was a little optimistic. even the 4 gauge wire was $3 per foot!
I will still be offering to build the wires for people at cost of materials and shipping, I will also post that how-to for those that want to do it yourself. The how-to will have all the lengths and parts/materials needed.
I will make two options one with 4 gauge to piggy back the factory wire, and one with 1/0 gauge to replace the factory wire.
Nov 28, 2007, 09:02 PM
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awesome can't wait
Sorry guys, didn't get to the cable how-to today, work issues, and the lack of availability of copper lug ends here in Bum-F florida have put a slow down on the post.
In reading the instructions from Dominick, He says to run a 4 gauge wire parallell the factory alternator wire (from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. He says then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the alternator body to the "frame" of the vehicle (I believe this to mean the box-section of our unibodies), then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the same mounting point on the chassis. Then ANOTHER wire parallel with the factory wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the factory mounting point.
Now, this means there are 4 wires.
1 alternator (+) post ------------> Battery (+) post (in addition fo factory)
2 alternator chassis ------------> mounting point on box section of frame
3 battery (-) post -----------------> mounting point on box section of frame
4 battery (-) post -----------------> factory groung point (in addition to factory)
However I was considering rather than running 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire, just replacing it with 1/0 gauge wire. I have found some sweet, ULTRA flexible 1/0 wire, but it's rather pricy at about $12 per foot. It seems that my initial $10 estimate for the wires was a little optimistic. even the 4 gauge wire was $3 per foot!
I will still be offering to build the wires for people at cost of materials and shipping, I will also post that how-to for those that want to do it yourself. The how-to will have all the lengths and parts/materials needed.
I will make two options one with 4 gauge to piggy back the factory wire, and one with 1/0 gauge to replace the factory wire.
In reading the instructions from Dominick, He says to run a 4 gauge wire parallell the factory alternator wire (from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery. He says then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the alternator body to the "frame" of the vehicle (I believe this to mean the box-section of our unibodies), then to run a 4 gauge ground wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the same mounting point on the chassis. Then ANOTHER wire parallel with the factory wire from the negative terminal of the battery to the factory mounting point.
Now, this means there are 4 wires.
1 alternator (+) post ------------> Battery (+) post (in addition fo factory)
2 alternator chassis ------------> mounting point on box section of frame
3 battery (-) post -----------------> mounting point on box section of frame
4 battery (-) post -----------------> factory groung point (in addition to factory)
However I was considering rather than running 4 gauge wire in addition to the factory wire, just replacing it with 1/0 gauge wire. I have found some sweet, ULTRA flexible 1/0 wire, but it's rather pricy at about $12 per foot. It seems that my initial $10 estimate for the wires was a little optimistic. even the 4 gauge wire was $3 per foot!
I will still be offering to build the wires for people at cost of materials and shipping, I will also post that how-to for those that want to do it yourself. The how-to will have all the lengths and parts/materials needed.
I will make two options one with 4 gauge to piggy back the factory wire, and one with 1/0 gauge to replace the factory wire.
Nov 29, 2007, 02:46 PM
#102
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He is I believe, but if you have any questions about your order alone, I am sure you can E-mail him directly (same E-mail you paypaled to). just be warned, he typically takes 2-3 days to respond.
Nov 29, 2007, 02:54 PM
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thanks a ton for this.. i cant buy now, but i have been needing this for some time.. you really saved me.. one other thing, was there a core return.. sorry if i missed that.