Howulikemyevo

iTrader: (27)

So do you have any pictures of where to tap it into the block for the vented crank pressure release?
I did mine in the front of the block but every time I wot, a lot of oil is in my catch can. The pressure oil out of the block like crazy. And that's would be a great danger if the motor is low on oil.
So if you can show me some pictures of how you run yours. I like your setup because no oil is coming out of your setup.
Is there a number where I can reach you?

Kevin Troy

Here is the -10AN fitting in the block. It's just above the AC bracket.


For now it is hoked up to the VTA (vent to atmosphere) catch can.
I have not noticed any filling up of the OCC. Just steam and oil vaporous. Therefore I will reroute the hose in the exhaust.
You can email me on ante.jakic@xnet.hr for further details

Kevin Troy

The silicon hose is going near the exhaust manifold so I have put it through a additional fire retarded Calzium-Silikat-Faser hose to keep it safe from heat.

Howulikemyevo

iTrader: (27)

Here is a picture of my vented crank pressure line running to the oilcatch can. I run it along my ac condenser and radiator. And I tapped my 10an fitting exactly where you tapped yours too. But the only difference is my oil catch can isn't baffle. Would that be a problem for oil pushing into the oil catch can?

Kevin Troy

Hi Tony,

As I have replied you in the mail few minutes ago, don't know how the baffles will help in the OCC. The purpose of the baffles as far as I know are to increase surface area and help condensate the oil from the mist/vapor.

You mentioned in your case that you have 4G64 block, don't know how it looks like from the inside but here is how mine looks like: (No baffles in front the hole, no oil filling up my OCC)

Kevin Troy

Here's today's fun. All day long
It just never get's old
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPAe...ature=youtu.be

6spdlegend

iTrader: (2)

beautiful evo sir

Kevin Troy

Thank you, Thank you!

NJ9MR

iTrader: (56)

^ Looking good! Are you going to cover your upper radiator hose 'elbow' where it is almost touching the 'header? I'd do that pretty quickly...

Kevin Troy

Thanks for your concern. Yes, I will do that. Replace that part with an aluminum 90° elbow part soon when I find time.

Although it's an performance Silicon hose with 5 layers of reinforced webbing, resistant to 260 °C ( 500°F ) of direct heat and cooled from the inside. Last summer at 40°C (104°F) of ambient temperature had no issues with that.
It did not become hard nor brittle by doing 30 dyno pulls and more and there was really hell hot around the manifold.
But to sleep with peace in my mind, I will do that upgrade.

Thanks for bringing that up in to my head (again)

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

I would get an Evo 6 style radiator. Move the hose over so it just goes straight from the tstat housing to the rad.

NJ9MR

iTrader: (56)

Here's how I went about it...

NJ9MR

iTrader: (56)

Updated.

Kevin Troy

The past week I did the brake refurbishment and put finally the XP10.
Did galvanize some parts as well, changed also all 4 drop-links, put Motul RBF 660, cleaned the expansion bottle etc...

And now just came back from the brake bedding in procedure which was supplied with the brakes. And they do bite very well. But I would need some better tires to handle it better.

Kevin Troy

Purchased new tires
Yokohama Neova Advan A08R