Aerocatch hood latches on IX carbon fiber hood
#1
Aerocatch hood latches on IX carbon fiber hood
Hey guys today I installed my aerocatch latches and wanted to share a decent little write up. I used some basic tools to do this and lots of time and measuring. This is not for the faint of heart (especially if you are a perfectionist)
First is a simple list of tools I used. You may find something different that will work better for you.
Cut off wheel
Sharpie
Painters tape
Dremel with cut off disk, stone grinder, and a rotozip bit for cutting concrete board
17mm wrench for nuts on the pins
Razor knife
Drill with different size bits. I used a 9/32 as well as a 1/2" and a 3/8"
Some kind of grease or gel
A drape or drop cloth
Shop vac
First step is to loosely install your pins about where you want. I used a factory hole in the upper radiator support.
Then I used noalox (being an electrician) and put a bit on top of the post.
Next, close the hood until it transfers your marking to the hood.
Now we need to grab that drape or drop cloth and spread it over the engine bay because you are about to start making a huge mess.
Now we are going to start drilling the hood. I used bits starting small and working my way up. Drill through the BOTTOM layer of the hood first. Once this is done and the pin will go through all the way to the outer skin, put more transfer gel you are using on and then repeat drilling. If it's not perfect don't worry, all that is going to get cut out soon anyways.
Once you have the pins sticking all the way through the hood, you need to lower them all the way you can use the supplied template to line up where you want your latches to sit. I wanted mine tear dropped from front to back and lined up one side with the factory line on the hood. Line up your crosshairs very well and mark with a sharpie.
Next step is grab that shop vac and dremel first with the cut off wheel. Fire up the vac and start cutting. Be sure to cut inside the lines as you can always make it bigger. Can't make the hole any smaller after it's cut.
Cut out the entire top skin. Then use the dremel bit grinding stone to make the hole big enough to accept the latch and clean both layers up nice. Then work your way to the lower skin. Cut it out any way you like, just needs to be big enough to get your bottom plate inside the frame.
If you like how everything looks now, insert the latch. Mark your holes onto the hood with a sharpie. Firmly press so the latch does not move.
Drill your holes and do a quick test fit. If you like it, you can either tighten it up and repeat for the other side, or do what I did and remove the latch on the finished hole and start making a tamplate to transfer to the other side.
I did this by using a Manila folder opened up and laid it across my hole and let it hang off the hood. I then taped it to the hood and marked the edges of the hood on the folder and the cut spot. Once I was done I removed it and cut on my lines I drew and for the spot of the latch.
Take your template you just made and flip it over and match up your edges of the hood with the edges you just cut out. Once you like it, tape it down and mark your hole to be cut. Remove the template and start cutting like you just did on the other side.
Once both holes are cut and latches are both installed, now comes the part of adjusting the posts. I got mine very very close and one was not perfect so I tapped it with a rubber hammer to line it up. Adjust your height and lock them down. You may need to cut your post length depending on where you locate them.
Clean your hood and enjoy your piece of mind that your hood will not fly up on a high speed run.
Mine are not finished but I am going to add a vacuum hose underneath where the cut is to dress it up. I am going to cut it longways and slide it over the opening.
Thanks for looking and I hope this helps at least 1 person!
First is a simple list of tools I used. You may find something different that will work better for you.
Cut off wheel
Sharpie
Painters tape
Dremel with cut off disk, stone grinder, and a rotozip bit for cutting concrete board
17mm wrench for nuts on the pins
Razor knife
Drill with different size bits. I used a 9/32 as well as a 1/2" and a 3/8"
Some kind of grease or gel
A drape or drop cloth
Shop vac
First step is to loosely install your pins about where you want. I used a factory hole in the upper radiator support.
Then I used noalox (being an electrician) and put a bit on top of the post.
Next, close the hood until it transfers your marking to the hood.
Now we need to grab that drape or drop cloth and spread it over the engine bay because you are about to start making a huge mess.
Now we are going to start drilling the hood. I used bits starting small and working my way up. Drill through the BOTTOM layer of the hood first. Once this is done and the pin will go through all the way to the outer skin, put more transfer gel you are using on and then repeat drilling. If it's not perfect don't worry, all that is going to get cut out soon anyways.
Once you have the pins sticking all the way through the hood, you need to lower them all the way you can use the supplied template to line up where you want your latches to sit. I wanted mine tear dropped from front to back and lined up one side with the factory line on the hood. Line up your crosshairs very well and mark with a sharpie.
Next step is grab that shop vac and dremel first with the cut off wheel. Fire up the vac and start cutting. Be sure to cut inside the lines as you can always make it bigger. Can't make the hole any smaller after it's cut.
Cut out the entire top skin. Then use the dremel bit grinding stone to make the hole big enough to accept the latch and clean both layers up nice. Then work your way to the lower skin. Cut it out any way you like, just needs to be big enough to get your bottom plate inside the frame.
If you like how everything looks now, insert the latch. Mark your holes onto the hood with a sharpie. Firmly press so the latch does not move.
Drill your holes and do a quick test fit. If you like it, you can either tighten it up and repeat for the other side, or do what I did and remove the latch on the finished hole and start making a tamplate to transfer to the other side.
I did this by using a Manila folder opened up and laid it across my hole and let it hang off the hood. I then taped it to the hood and marked the edges of the hood on the folder and the cut spot. Once I was done I removed it and cut on my lines I drew and for the spot of the latch.
Take your template you just made and flip it over and match up your edges of the hood with the edges you just cut out. Once you like it, tape it down and mark your hole to be cut. Remove the template and start cutting like you just did on the other side.
Once both holes are cut and latches are both installed, now comes the part of adjusting the posts. I got mine very very close and one was not perfect so I tapped it with a rubber hammer to line it up. Adjust your height and lock them down. You may need to cut your post length depending on where you locate them.
Clean your hood and enjoy your piece of mind that your hood will not fly up on a high speed run.
Mine are not finished but I am going to add a vacuum hose underneath where the cut is to dress it up. I am going to cut it longways and slide it over the opening.
Thanks for looking and I hope this helps at least 1 person!
Last edited by S.Brewer; Jun 5, 2017 at 05:36 AM.
#3
#4
Good write-up.
They are technically installed backwards however. Narrow end should face forward as per Aerocatch, to prevent them from coming undone or catching air if left popped on accident.
I realize this is a 99% non issue, just helping add to the thread.
Beautiful car!
They are technically installed backwards however. Narrow end should face forward as per Aerocatch, to prevent them from coming undone or catching air if left popped on accident.
I realize this is a 99% non issue, just helping add to the thread.
Beautiful car!
#5
Good write-up.
They are technically installed backwards however. Narrow end should face forward as per Aerocatch, to prevent them from coming undone or catching air if left popped on accident.
I realize this is a 99% non issue, just helping add to the thread.
Beautiful car!
They are technically installed backwards however. Narrow end should face forward as per Aerocatch, to prevent them from coming undone or catching air if left popped on accident.
I realize this is a 99% non issue, just helping add to the thread.
Beautiful car!
The force it takes to unlock the button is o much that I feel nothing will make for an accidental unlatch.
Also, I left my oem latch. These are strict backup latches. I have to unlatch them both, then Pull my hood pop lever.
Just glad I can help someone!
#6
Yup you are absolutely correct. I just didn’t like the “correct” way for this good. Thought about which ya I was going to do and I’m glad I did them like this. Reminds me of a teardrop falling vs the tapered end cutting through the air.
The force it takes to unlock the button is o much that I feel nothing will make for an accidental unlatch.
Also, I left my oem latch. These are strict backup latches. I have to unlatch them both, then Pull my hood pop lever.
Just glad I can help someone!
The force it takes to unlock the button is o much that I feel nothing will make for an accidental unlatch.
Also, I left my oem latch. These are strict backup latches. I have to unlatch them both, then Pull my hood pop lever.
Just glad I can help someone!
I do see lots of people take the latch out, and if you can keep it, you should.
On my 300zx swap, we had to remove the top core support for the radiator, so installing them facing the other way was necessary.
If you don't mind, what's the specs on that wheel/tire combo? It gives me a strange feeling in my pants.
#7
I forgot to add that in my post, I noticed you had the oem latch in place. That obviously solves any problem.
I do see lots of people take the latch out, and if you can keep it, you should.
On my 300zx swap, we had to remove the top core support for the radiator, so installing them facing the other way was necessary.
If you don't mind, what's the specs on that wheel/tire combo? It gives me a strange feeling in my pants.
I do see lots of people take the latch out, and if you can keep it, you should.
On my 300zx swap, we had to remove the top core support for the radiator, so installing them facing the other way was necessary.
If you don't mind, what's the specs on that wheel/tire combo? It gives me a strange feeling in my pants.
they are 18x10.5 +15 with 285/30 on them.
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