Can you guys check over my clutch replacement parts list?
Oct 4, 2019, 10:08 AM
#1
Can you guys check over my clutch replacement parts list?
Well, I hopped in my Evo this morning to take it for its weekly drive and my clutch is slipping, 2 weeks before my final race at that. I can thank the drag races last weekend for that. Anyways, here is the list of stuff I am looking to get. Can you guys look it over, let me know if I should change it up or add in anything else?
Clutch - ACT HDSS (possibly thinking a Spec stage 2 as well)
TOB - OEM Mitsu
Monoloc - ACT 1 piece
Also, possibly looking to do a chromoly flywheel. I have one on my Bug and love it and figured it would be worth it in the Evo too. Thoughts on those?
Car is still on the stock turbo, for now, making less than 400 wtq. I will be putting on a bigger turbo by the end of the year but will still be TQ limited due to my stock rods. I do launch my car at the races so keep that in mind too. Thanks!
Clutch - ACT HDSS (possibly thinking a Spec stage 2 as well)
TOB - OEM Mitsu
Monoloc - ACT 1 piece
Also, possibly looking to do a chromoly flywheel. I have one on my Bug and love it and figured it would be worth it in the Evo too. Thoughts on those?
Car is still on the stock turbo, for now, making less than 400 wtq. I will be putting on a bigger turbo by the end of the year but will still be TQ limited due to my stock rods. I do launch my car at the races so keep that in mind too. Thanks!
Oct 4, 2019, 10:41 AM
#2
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
The ACT clutch comes with the monoloc, no need to buy one separate. I would get the little felt washers that go on the shift fork shaft, they're usually pretty much every time I do a clutch and they're only $3.
A flywheel isn't necessary, but the aftermarket ones do typically have more mass in the friction surface are to help take more heat. If you do get one, get the ACT streetlite. Stock flywheel is 15lbs, its like 12.5 I think. No need for the super light 10lb flywheels. They just make the car harder to drive.
A flywheel isn't necessary, but the aftermarket ones do typically have more mass in the friction surface are to help take more heat. If you do get one, get the ACT streetlite. Stock flywheel is 15lbs, its like 12.5 I think. No need for the super light 10lb flywheels. They just make the car harder to drive.
Oct 4, 2019, 10:58 AM
#3
Thanks for the info!
K so the Spec clutch is definitely not happening. 2 week lead time.
Final list will be the HDSS clutch and the 12 lb flywheel. $867 shipped to my door isnt horrible I guess.
Then just the OEM TOB and felt thing. Is this the correct felt thingy? And I need one or two?
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...8-9-x-md749474
K so the Spec clutch is definitely not happening. 2 week lead time.
Final list will be the HDSS clutch and the 12 lb flywheel. $867 shipped to my door isnt horrible I guess.
Then just the OEM TOB and felt thing. Is this the correct felt thingy? And I need one or two?
https://www.maperformance.com/produc...8-9-x-md749474
Oct 4, 2019, 11:50 AM
#4
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Yes, that's the one. You need two. They go between the clutch fork return springs and the fork. They act like a gasket to keep garbage out of the pivot.
Oct 4, 2019, 01:48 PM
#5
Sweet! Everything has been ordered and parts should be trickling in next week. Tomorrow I will start the wonderful task of removing the trans. Never done one so I am sure its going to be interesting.
At least since the front bumper is coming off, I can weld on a nut for a tow hook. Been wanting to do that for a while now.
At least since the front bumper is coming off, I can weld on a nut for a tow hook. Been wanting to do that for a while now.
Oct 4, 2019, 01:59 PM
#6
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Why is the front bumper coming off?
Make sure you don't lose the oil passage O-Ring for the tcase. They stay on 95% of the time, but it's best to couple check.
Make sure you don't lose the oil passage O-Ring for the tcase. They stay on 95% of the time, but it's best to couple check.
Oct 4, 2019, 02:43 PM
#7
Its only 6 bolts to get it off from where its at now plus I wont have to worry about scratching it. And it will give me just a bit more room to deal with. I know I dont have to pull it off but I figured while I am there, might as well so I can weld the nut on.
What side does the o-ring normally stick to? Trans or t-case? I am guessing its probably the only o-ring in that area so should be easy to see once its apart.
What side does the o-ring normally stick to? Trans or t-case? I am guessing its probably the only o-ring in that area so should be easy to see once its apart.
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Oct 4, 2019, 03:51 PM
#8
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
It stay in the tcase. It sits in a small recess
Oct 4, 2019, 03:54 PM
#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Pic of where is is
Oct 4, 2019, 04:59 PM
#11
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks
That is not where I was expecting it! Thanks for the heads up. Hopefully this all goes smoothly. I am only about 3.5 hours from Vegas if your bored tomorrow and want to help out haha.
Oct 4, 2019, 06:52 PM
#12
You still have one working arm right? Means you wouldnt be completely worthless haha. Best of luck getting your car back together. You have a lot more work ahead of you then me.
On my way home, I couldn't get my clutch to slip....its got a mind of it's own apparently. Whatever. Still getting replaced.
On my way home, I couldn't get my clutch to slip....its got a mind of it's own apparently. Whatever. Still getting replaced.
Oct 5, 2019, 08:02 AM
#13
Evolved Member
Sweet! Everything has been ordered and parts should be trickling in next week. Tomorrow I will start the wonderful task of removing the trans. Never done one so I am sure its going to be interesting.
At least since the front bumper is coming off, I can weld on a nut for a tow hook. Been wanting to do that for a while now.
At least since the front bumper is coming off, I can weld on a nut for a tow hook. Been wanting to do that for a while now.
make sure you pull the intermediate shaft that goes from the front diff to the driver side half shaft.... sometimes people forget that and it is imposssible to pull the transfer off if it is not out. Slide hammer is the reccomended tool but I always make my own puller with a large socket and a looong bolt (or just threaded bar) and a nut and couple of washers..
Also, if you get stuck releasing the thrust bearing, and that hasppens often, just get a socket with an extension trough the thrust fork opening in the bellhousing and unbolt the clutch cover..
FInally, dropping the subframe a bit makes life easier..
