Im not a huge fan of 6235 probably because im not a fan of twinscroll in Small frame turbos.. they run out of breath.. The 6235 is a basically a 6268 which I dont see the point of the 68mm turbine wheel.. for that you can use the 6265 which again is a waste because i havent seen any additional power gains with larger turbine on a 4cyl.. power comes from compressor..

Mike

 

Michael (ETS) said the 6235 is a 35r turbine wheel?

Mikey

 

That is correct.. its a 68mm wheel..

Mike

 

Mike,
got few questions on this:

1) any charts on this turbo?
2) whats the flow rate and at what psi was it tested on?
3) does it consist of a garret core or pt? tried visiting pt's website but there isnt much on there. trying to figure out whats it made out of.
4) what do u think this will do say @ 22-24psi on a stock long block?

Thanks!

 

PT does not provide charts for the turbochargers The PT5857 uses a Precision center section and the PT6235 uses a Garrett center section (Reason you can do twin scroll)

 

so the 5857 is completly manufactured by PT? how long is the warranty on those if there is one?
Thanks Michael!

 

PT offers a 1/yr warranty on all PT Turbochargers against manufacturer defects. Yup, they use the PT air cooled ceramic ball bearing center section with the PT wheels.

Thanks,

Michael

 

I have a 6262 that's using the Garrett housing and is a vband hotside and vband downpipe version. Is there a direct replacement in the 5857?

 

Got mine today I failed to realize the oil return flange would be different between it and my Garrett so I had to put my GT3076r back in I also did some logs to see exactly where I was hitting 22psi with my 30r so I can compare with the 5857 (both using .63 a/r)

Here are some pics to compare the GT3076r and PTE 5857 if anyone was curious

 

nice! thanks fo rthe pics. def. interested in ur logs. let us know what u see.

 

Looks like you will also need to modify the lower intercooler pipe as well. Not just the silicone diameter the center section of the PTE is longer and will require the lower pipe to be extended.

Thanks!

michael

 

I got it installed. I didn't have to change piping, intercooler piping was good and downpipe was good. I can't fit my intake on the front anymore though since it is so close to my headlight (I have an Audi A4 not an Evo). I am having a few issues that I need to figure out though.

One problem I had is I could not get one nut tightend with a wrench because I cant get the open or box end of the wrench on the nut since it is so close to the housing where it connects to the manifold, not sure what I am going to do about that, I currently just have the 3 other nuts holding it on. The nut in question is the one on top side of turbo and closest to front of turbo, anyone ever have an issue like this? Next issue is I am not sure where the oil went since I just topped my car off a few days ago, but I took the car out for a spin for like 15 minutes and came back home with my oil light flashing. I didn't check the oil yet since it was dark and I didn't feel like dealing with it.

The turbo did have some smoke coming from the bottom very back of the center section right where the turbine housing connects. I let the car idle for a good 10 minutes checking for leaks and making sure everything was ok and also to let that smoke go away since I figured it was grease from install burning off. It seemed to have went almost all away before I left for the ride and I see no leaks, but when I stopped and popped the hood there was some smoke coming from the turbo again when I got home. Anyone ever have a problem with a brand new turbo smoking like that and burning oil or something? I just cant believe in 15 minutes with 3 or 4 pulls through the gear that I lost over a quart of oil causing my light to flash at me.

My final issue is after doing a log at 30psi my air/fuel went to mid 12s at around 6500 and at 7600 I was up to 13:1, I usually run 11.8:1 range at 30psi on my 30r. I am running 830cc Lucas injectors with a bosch 046 fuel pump and -6an line from pump to the rail and a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator which then rises from there with boost. I don't know what to think about this problem, I wish I would have done a log before taking the 30r turbo off so I would be sure it wasn't an issue with something else and not that the turbo is actually making to much power, but the car to me doesn't seem like it is rediculously faster so I don't know.


I did a log to check the spool and this thing was seeing 22psi (highest my map sensor will read) at 4600rpm and my 30r saw 22psi at 4200rpm both with .63 a/r housings. I have the journal bearing 5857 and like I said this was with no filter on the turbo either so no restriction at all. So as far as spool where everyone was saying "spool like a 30r" I guess it might be possible to be almost as fast with a ball bearing version but I think you will still come up a hair short.

Well this is all pretty much me rambeling about my current issues but I figured I could shed some light on the spooling characeteristics for everyone atleast. I did absolutely nothing to my car as far as tune or changing anything piping wise. Just took the 30r off, rerouted a coolant line since I dont need them with this turbo and bolted the turbo on and went.

 

sooo, WOT + 7600rpm + 13.1afr and you still kept on it..? not sure if i can say i would be doing the same haha also, power is in the tune. (since you said you didnt notice too much more power against your old setup) spend an afternoon tuning and it should feel good

 

A4 TSchuss,
are u still on the 1.8 os is that on a 2l?
for the write up btw

 

I purchased a 5557E Journal bearing and had it installed recently. I'm get 22psi at 4400rpm and still in the process of tuning.