THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

We have been suspension experts for about 8 years now and love helping everyone we can. Post up your suspension questions and we will try to answer you. Although its easy to just search and find answers, we are trying to help those who cannot find their answers or are stuck with something.

Thanks in advance,

Edward
1-800-959-0145
Sales@thmotorsports.com
www.thmotorsports.com

MarcusDubya77

iTrader: (1)

What is the best daily driver coilover setup that will not sacrifice ride quality. I plan on running agressive setup 18x9.5 +20 w/265 wheels. I am thinking the HR coilovers offered by PERRIN. Any additional parts that I would need? Any help would be great.

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

Marcus,

Coilovers are always tricky, especially when you say you want to use them just for daily driving. I think to better answer your question, give me some more detail on what type of driving you do. Do you go to the track a lot? Where do you live and what type of road and weather conditions are there? Is this car just for DD or commuting or are you racing it etc.

There are many coilovers available, and over our 8 year experience working with the companies behind them, we see that most respected coilover companies have a purpose for what they offer. There are many that are just made to compete on price or give the company a buck.

For instance, if your budget allows it, the KW V3 is absolutely amazing as a street and light track coilover. Its fully stainless steel, so any weather condition cannot hurt it. Its double adjustable, so you can adjust the standard highspeed compression/rebound and also low speed bump (rebound). This can give you a super smooth street ride able to absorb bumps quite well, and still be aggressive on the track when setup right. Take a look, Evo guys love KW's, but they are not cheap ringing in over $2,000 for a set. You get amazing service, and I can tell you, I have been to their factory in Germany myself, and all I can say is WOW. Wow on quality, R&D, and production. They are really cream of the crop. But again, this is for DD and some track.

If your going to be racing full time, then I would say JRZ, Moton on the really high end or Stance SSD or the new 2 ways etc for less.

We are not trying to endorse what we sell ONLY, but rather give you a plethora of options. We carry most of the brands mentioned so if you need more help after we chat here, give us a ring.

Eddie

BuBBasEVO

iTrader: (7)

what do you guys think about the BC BR coilovers for evo 9s?

Go_Lancer_Go

iTrader: (13)

Good questions. I have these coils, interested to see your input! I am running 8k rear 7k front. That spring rate decent for DD + aggressive driving?

MarcusDubya77

iTrader: (1)

I definitely would like a chance to track, but not heavily. I will be going to Colorado Springs if that helps you out with the road conditions. Their roads are fairly good, except for some parts which have typical wear and tear. I am not too agressive of a driver, but an occasional spirited run is not out of the question. I want something that can give a good look while not sacrificing drivability for a daily driven car.

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

The BC Coilovers are something that spread fast due to them riding well, great marketing, and a fairly good product. I think the coilovers have good components that go into them, and the shock length is matched to the EVO's oem length. I don't think it was engineered exactly this way, as they use the same 8k/10k setup for almost every single coilover they sell, but with the length matched and decent components, they seem to do pretty well for the Evo Market. For their price, I think they are a great solution over many others near their price range creeping up to $1k.

Thanks in advance,

Edward
1-800-959-0145
Sales@thmotorsports.com
www.thmotorsports.com

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

Any coilover is based upon the magic in the shock, not the spring. It is a large misconception we have here in the states that the spring rate determines ride quality or performance on the track. It is however the opposite. The point of a spring is to hold up the vehicle, like a post. Now, if cars ran on posts and solid suspension setups, we would never have contact with the road for more than 30% or less unless it was glass. For this reason, a coil spring was introduced. The shock, is where as I said the magic happens. The shock dampens the springs motion, so that it doesn't over extend or over contract. With coilovers, this is exactly what you are doing by adjusting. Your goal is to have the most contact of tire to the road at all times. If you had 100% tire contact 100% of the time, the car would go faster, than if the suspension was too stiff and skipped around.

Your 8k/7k sounds good to me. There are a numerous amount of factors that go into suspension geometry and materials used, in conjunction with the body, but you should be fine.

Eddie

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

Ok, last and final question, what is your budget?

Thanks in advance,

Edward
1-800-959-0145
Sales@thmotorsports.com
www.thmotorsports.com

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

Let us know if you need anymore help.

Thanks in advance,

Edward
1-800-959-0145
Sales@thmotorsports.com
www.thmotorsports.com

Go_Lancer_Go

iTrader: (13)

You explain things sooooooo well!

Whats your thoughts on suspension braces/bars? Any you feel are better then the rest. I know sway bars are a must. Im talking more like H-Brace, Rear Strut Bars,etc,etc.

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

Sway bars, in my opinion are one of the first mods that should be done. Sway bars work well in conjunction of the OEM and coilovers suspension based setups. As for strut bars, to me, those are last. They help stiffen the chassis, and so does all the other bracing you find: H Braces etc.

Each car is built with a hindrance and chassis flex. The evo is one of the best chassis made to this day, but still needs some attention. The braces do make the car more predictable, and help transfer more of the force induced through the shocks/springs rather than flex of the chassis.

If I were to do it, and granted you will be tracking the car, a cage will be a better investment than any braces. When we were heavy into honda's years back, I remember there were M-braces or such and they literally looked like a monkey bar set in the rear of the car. I remember people spending north of $1000 on just bracing, and instead they could have gotten a decent 4 or 6 point cage (well for some more that is) and achieved the same thing along with having a caged car for the track.

Its your call where you want to start, but I hope this helped.

Thanks in advance,

Edward
1-800-959-0145
Sales@thmotorsports.com
www.thmotorsports.com

MarcusDubya77

iTrader: (1)

Well about 1500 seems to be where I would like to taper off. Also, I do want a very streetable DD type thats not to rough. I am planning to go with an agressive setup with 18 x 9.5 or 10.5 possibly +15 offset. I know I will have to go with some negative camber. I hope all of this helps.

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

Flat out, I would start with Stance GR+ Pro, then consider the BC after that. The KW's are a bit out of the price range for the V3. Hope that helps. For about 35% more in spending though, the KW are a reality. PM me if you need help with any of this.

Thanks in advance,

Edward
1-800-959-0145
Sales@thmotorsports.com
www.thmotorsports.com

THmotorsports

iTrader: (16)

If anyone else needs any help, let us know