what is the proper bed in procedure?

 

The pads are still holding strong. They have no fade and have handled ICE & snow very well too. I must also point out that they produce very little dust and have more bite than the stock ones.

The proper bed in procedure is to accelerate to 50 mph and keep it consisent braking and gas to maintain speed for a 1/4 mile. Then go for a mile to let the system cool and then repeat this 4 more times. After this your pads should be mated with the rotors and they should be ready to go!

 

are you talking about using the gas and the brakes to maintain a 50 MPH speed for 1/4mile? If so I would NOT suggest anyone with a stock or weak clutch do this unless you feel like getting it replaced anytime soon... the process you just described is also called "brake boosting", and its very hard on the clutch amoung other driveline parts.

I just installed these pads about 500 miles ago, did the normal brake-in procedure that I've done with all me cars. So far there is no brake dust and these things grab and stop better then stock. I also did the SS lines and flushed all my fluid so that may have something to do with it aswell. But there is MUCH less brake dust for sure.

 

Yes you are correct. Please explain your normal break-in procedure. You have me curious now.

 

I think each manufacture recomends a slightly different procedure for bedding the pads to the rotors... the one thing they all have in common though is not to over heat either during the process.

What I do is drive lightly and avoid heavy brakeing for the first 500 miles or so. When I have to come to a stop I pump the brakes lifting my foot each time off the pedal to let them cool down for a sec before I hit the brakes again.

There is much discussion on the topic, I suggest if you still have questions that you search.

 

how do the MU pads compare to the Hawks?
I've been doing some search and people have been saying about the Hawks...
and since the MU are said to be better than the stock brembo, why are those brembos cost like nearly twice as much?
it would be great if you guys can put in some input on these pads... my brembo pads are running really thin..
thanks!!

 

I have only had the Project Mu so I don't know about the hawks. Although the STOCK Brembo's cost twice as much because you are paying for the middle man, and Mitsu for them. Plus the OE ones are quiet which some people will pay for.

If you are looking for front and rear pads for less than $200 these pads are great. They feel very good and you will not regret your purchase if you go with then. Besides the front stock Brembo pads are $250+ so these are a way better deal. So far I have 10k or so on these pads and they feel as good as day one. Great purchase and make sure you buy them from Logic Performance for the BEST price.

 

so should I go for the B-force / the NS?

 

Just a quick update on their current range of pads. Although i believe the old ones are still in the market and there's certainly nothing wrong with them.

p.s. I'm on a set of Max900's love them.

 

The B-force if you want gripper braking than stock. The NS if want like stock with no noise.

 

those will squeek a lot as it gets worned down. Also, brake dust is just as same or even worst then the stock pads.

Braking on the auto-x is very good, but on daily driving, it doesn't bite that quickly.

Hard driving, the fading is very rare and it's one of the best out there. It just works hard for you for a long time. But the thing is, it needs to have little more bite to it.

overall, brake pads ok, but there are better ones out there.

 

bump for review after 4 years, did you change the pads yet?

 

Yes they have been since changed. They are a great pad if you can find them. I went to a Hawk HPS for now because I could not find these easily.