Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

I also went to all those places, as well as Autozone, and they all claim not to have teflon or poly washers. Any other suggestions?

robstamina

this is one of the styles that you can get..

http://superior.thomasnet.com/ImgMe...LONWASHERSa.jpg

I will post some pics of the other styles. The kit I have on my etd I got from Home depot. I requested a kitchen sink o ring preferably in hard polyurethane, I showed the guy and he took me to the plumbing section that had everything under the sun.then I found the right diameter in the hardest bushing for like .50$.

robstamina

I am asking Ingalls to include the "thin open ended bike crank" wrenches that allow for etd dampning adjustment.. Would people like to see these added to the kit? Post up your feedback and I will look into getting them included.

robstamina

Forgot to add the size wrench you use for Ingalls etd adjustment is going to be a 27mm and a 24mm thin open ended wrench. Using these will keep the etd from getting scratched up...You can use the adjustable stye but need to be careful..

EvilBlueEvo8

iTrader: (26)

im interested in the bicycle wrenches

Killboy

iTrader: (2)

Dead link (inserted the "..." into the actual URL) but thanks for the info. I'll check the plumbing section next time I'm out that way.

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Do you know what the diameter is, by any chance?

dubbleugly01

iTrader: (24)

I dunno what your exact noise is, but I told my wife to shut the h&!! up about it, and my whine went away!

Just to update, I had the Stiffy installed with dynomat, seemed to be fine at the start, but the engine vibrations transferred to the cabin plus the whine that changes pitch with engine rpm either got worse over time, or I got more picky about it. The original reason for the Stiffy (in my case) was to improve high rpm shifting, seems I was getting locked out about 50% of the time on any shift at/above 7000 rpms (stock clutch). I started at 13, and adjusted it down to 10, because the shifting seemed to improve with the stiffer setting. But this adjustement was made prior to any increase in "perceived" noise/vibration. Either the dynomat all squished out from under the Stiffy bracket, or something similar happened and allowed for more transfer of the unwanted effects.

So I tried the front motor mount instead of the Stiffy. The cabin noises went away as well as any extra cabin vibration, but the high rpm shifting issues came back! Now, I'm running both the Stiffy (set at 13) and motor mount. I used a thin sheet gasket material (similar to what you'd use in coolant or oil service) sandwiched between the strut tower and Stiffy bracket, and then again above the Stiffy bracket and strut bar (i.e. two pieces). Shifting is much improved again, but with the different gasket material I'm now using, the cabin vibrations and noise are much more tolerable. Actually, I haven't noticed any noise, just vibration at idle.

This combo is working well for me.

My car is at 45K miles, so it's a little on the high mileage side for what it's worth.

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Which motor mount did you get, buschur or powerflex?

dubbleugly01

iTrader: (24)

powerflex

mitsuorder

iTrader: (106)

Don't Dynamat in between the brackets, you are sacrificing the rigidity of the two mounting surfaces. Neatly cover the strut tower area surrounding the brackets and you will hear nothing. Top it off with the nylon/teflon washers where the original rubber o-rings were intended to go and you will prevent chances of rattling from the Heim joints to the brackets as well.

robstamina

I bumped up my idle a couple 100 rpms and got rid of the vibration at idling...replace the rubber o rings. The o ring diameter is 15 mm and is 2.5mm thick..Love those digital calipers...Go and find the harder polymer styles from home depot is what I suggest..

robstamina

+1 very helpful and informative post from mitsuorder! Dynamat the outside. I tried it on the inside of the bracket and I think I just wore it out over the week I had it on.. I tried the outside of the bracket like mitsuorder suggest and it works better..

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

I couldn't see how those supplied rubber o-rings would smash together with the other washers and nuts to cause those vibrations, being how thick they were. I also couldn't see how you would need any dynamat at all, since I torque those strut bolts down pretty tight. Maybe to decrease vibrations, but the noise? -- they logically didn't seem like they stemmed from there.

So I went to Home Depot and dug very deeply only to find those poly washers in a kit. I didn't wanna pay $3+ for one washer, so I grabbed a package of #10 rubber o-rings off their shelves in the plumbing aisle, similar to the ones that were supplied. I then installed those on the strut side of the heim joints and they immediately got rid of all the vibration noises I had--idle and cruising at 3000-4000rpm! Those heim joints are the ones that are causing all this unncessary clanking. Put rubber or poly o-ring washers immediately over them, and they'll completely go away.

robstamina

Yeah dynomat for vibarations but it will help to transfer less noise too..

The o rings can get smashed I've seen. People need to use the factory specs to torque these things down to the strut bolts and motor mount bracket ....