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Tuned yesterday at RS Motors - Burnsville, MN

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Old Jun 17, 2007, 08:01 AM
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Tuned yesterday at RS Motors - Burnsville, MN

As the title states, I was tuned yesterday by Ron at RS Motors. A buddy of mine and I headed to RS Motors early this morning and after many issues with my car we decided to call it a day. End of the day results...282 AWHP and 265 ft/lbs on 92 Octane.

I'm disappointed in my cars performance, more so with some of the parts I’ve ordered. We started turning up the boost at the beginning and the coupler for my LICP to the IC blew off. Ron hooked me up with a T-Clamp and got it working again. We then started again and my boost was very inconsistent going between 17 and 21 max boost. We then pin pointed the Forge BOV wasn’t sealing properly during a boost leak test. (Anyone else have this problem?). I pm'ed Mke@Forge to see if he had any input or if I possibly just got a bad BOV. Ron went way out of his way and ran home and got an OEM IX BOV from an SE and we put that on my car. He started tuning again and we still noticed some issues with boost leaking and then shooting back up between 4-5000rpm. We think it may be the MBC. For some reason it starts to bleed boost at 12-13psi and Ron said this should not happen until about 19-20psi. We tried the heavy spring that also came with my MBC, but my car hit 28psi real fast so Ron backed it off immediately. Put the other spring back in and decided to work with it.

My car hits 20psi max fine, but then in the taper it drops down to about 17 then shoots back up to 18psi again then slowly tapers off. This little hiccup in my boost was very consistant after doing a few more pulls on the dyno. We didn’t run more than 20psi because if the problem suddenly corrected itself I may have been pushing even more boost through. Hopefully I can get another more successful tune in a couple of weeks.

As for the tune I have now, it’s awesome. We did my baseline and I was at 15psi tapering to 12. I picked up about 30whp just turning the boost up before Ron started to tune.

Anyone have any more ideas for me to check? We ran a boost leak test and all my piping seemed fine. The only thing we could think of is a issue with my Forge Unos MBC. Ron said that it's an issue with a spring somewhere because of the way the boost drops and then shoots back up.

Anyways long enough story, here’s the chart!


Last edited by Chukee_R; Jun 17, 2007 at 08:06 AM.
Old Jun 17, 2007, 08:04 AM
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Did you take apart the MBC to ensure the spring was seated properly? When you put in the stiff spring, it should not have shot to 28psi. You did turn the MBC all the way down first after putting in the stiff spring, right?
Old Jun 17, 2007, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Did you take apart the MBC to ensure the spring was seated properly? When you put in the stiff spring, it should not have shot to 28psi. You did turn the MBC all the way down first after putting in the stiff spring, right?
Yessir, we had it turned all the way down. Ron said he was surprised it went to 28psi at the lowest setting.

Checked the MBC 3 times.
Old Jun 17, 2007, 08:20 AM
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Interesting. It only shoots up like that on the stiff spring if the spring is not seated on the nipple (assuming the knob is set to minimum). I guess the only other reason would be if the bleed hole was not cleaned out. Take a look at the MBC bleed hole to see if it's obstructed at all from metal shavings during the manufacturing process. Also, grease the ball a bit to make sure it doesn't get stuck.
Old Jun 17, 2007, 08:31 AM
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The spring that came with the MBC should be able to hold atleast 22psi though correct?

Is the Unos suppose to begin to bleed boost at 12-13psi? I've heard the the Buschur MBC doesn't begin to bleed boost until up around 19-20psi.

I'm going to pull apart the MBC again and check.
Old Jun 17, 2007, 09:14 AM
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The soft spring usually maxes at 19psi. I don't know what you mean by "begins to bleed." That's not a measurement I've ever seen discussed relevant to MBCs.
Old Jun 17, 2007, 09:18 AM
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There's a little hole towards the base of the MBC. It starts venting air (bleeding air). I was told that it starts doing this around 12-13psi and it should not do this until 19-20.
Old Jun 17, 2007, 09:20 AM
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Yeah, that's the bleed hole I'm talking about that you should inspect for obstructions. I don't know how it can only start to bleed at 19-20psi if your boost is set to 19-20psi. It has to start bleeding off before then, but when it starts is not really an issue. It starts whenever it needs to - this is not a thing that differs from one MBC to the next.
Old Jun 18, 2007, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Chukee_R
As the title states, I was tuned yesterday by Ron at RS Motors. A buddy of mine and I headed to RS Motors early this morning and after many issues with my car we decided to call it a day. End of the day results...282 AWHP and 265 ft/lbs on 92 Octane.

I'm disappointed in my cars performance, more so with some of the parts I’ve ordered. We started turning up the boost at the beginning and the coupler for my LICP to the IC blew off. Ron hooked me up with a T-Clamp and got it working again. We then started again and my boost was very inconsistent going between 17 and 21 max boost. We then pin pointed the Forge BOV wasn’t sealing properly during a boost leak test. (Anyone else have this problem?). I pm'ed Mke@Forge to see if he had any input or if I possibly just got a bad BOV. Ron went way out of his way and ran home and got an OEM IX BOV from an SE and we put that on my car. He started tuning again and we still noticed some issues with boost leaking and then shooting back up between 4-5000rpm. We think it may be the MBC. For some reason it starts to bleed boost at 12-13psi and Ron said this should not happen until about 19-20psi. We tried the heavy spring that also came with my MBC, but my car hit 28psi real fast so Ron backed it off immediately. Put the other spring back in and decided to work with it.

My car hits 20psi max fine, but then in the taper it drops down to about 17 then shoots back up to 18psi again then slowly tapers off. This little hiccup in my boost was very consistant after doing a few more pulls on the dyno. We didn’t run more than 20psi because if the problem suddenly corrected itself I may have been pushing even more boost through. Hopefully I can get another more successful tune in a couple of weeks.

As for the tune I have now, it’s awesome. We did my baseline and I was at 15psi tapering to 12. I picked up about 30whp just turning the boost up before Ron started to tune.

Anyone have any more ideas for me to check? We ran a boost leak test and all my piping seemed fine. The only thing we could think of is a issue with my Forge Unos MBC. Ron said that it's an issue with a spring somewhere because of the way the boost drops and then shoots back up.

Anyways long enough story, here’s the chart!

Wow that looks horrible.
With filtering at 5 it's pretty bad.

My IX with an intake, test pipe and boost at 21.5 made 306awhp.
I tuned a turboback IX at 326awhp at 21.5 pretty conservatively.

Why not throw the stock diverter back in? what's the point of getting a Forge BOV?
Old Jun 18, 2007, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SophieSleeps
Wow that looks horrible.
With filtering at 5 it's pretty bad.

My IX with an intake, test pipe and boost at 21.5 made 306awhp.
I tuned a turboback IX at 326awhp at 21.5 pretty conservatively.

Why not throw the stock diverter back in? what's the point of getting a Forge BOV?
That is with the Stock IX BOV. The forge would get stuck and not hold boost at all so we put the IX BOV back in.

Also what kind of Dyno were you on?
Old Jun 18, 2007, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Chukee_R
That is with the Stock IX BOV. The forge would get stuck and not hold boost at all so we put the IX BOV back in.

Also what kind of Dyno were you on?
It was the dyno at TDC tuning in concord, nh.
Land over Sea dyno or something.

Regardless of power output, look at how un-smooth that is.
Usually if you have a smoothing factor set high, it'll be smooth.
Even for a zero smoothing factor that's pretty jumpy. My opinion.
Need more time road tuning.
Old Jun 19, 2007, 11:03 AM
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I'm going to change the clamps on my pipes to T-Bolts Clamps, swap out the boost controller and go back in again.
Old Jun 19, 2007, 05:36 PM
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should of went to AMS or BS
Old Jun 19, 2007, 05:36 PM
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should of went to AMS or BS
Old Jun 19, 2007, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin Knight
should of went to AMS or BS
The problems have nothing to do with RS Motors, the place has a great reputation. I'm sure Ron did what he could with what he had to work with and is helping Chuck get his car running right.


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