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AMSOIL DOT4 Brake Fluid - Track Review!

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Old Jun 20, 2011, 06:31 AM
  #136  
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Pretty much at the midway point of the NASA season. Looking forward to making a few more changes and setting up strong for Nationals in September at Mid Ohio.

Haven't touched the brakes at all the past few events. The car is in the shop right now for a checkup, but when I get it back I plan to pop out all the pads and give them a good lookover. The fronts have been in there for 2 weekends now. I'll report back with wear rates, but the fluid in the top resevoir is still looking a very light tan color - awesome!
Old Jun 21, 2011, 08:03 AM
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Boomn29 -

I'm curious if you ever tried out the Super Blue Racing brake fluid?

Some of the comparisons with Motul and Amsoil are very close, with the exception that they make the fluid in blue and yellow letting you know that you have fully bled your old fluid out for the new.
Also curious if this gave you the same results or not as the Motul or the Amsoil fluid.
Old Jun 21, 2011, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Joey B
Boomn29 -

I'm curious if you ever tried out the Super Blue Racing brake fluid?
No I have not ever ran the ATE stuff and I don't plan on ever changing frankly. Even the #'s on the ATE stuff are lower; the wet boiling is 388 vs 410 for AMSOIL DOT4.

I've never had a problem bleeding this stuff. If you've following my posts, I flush to start the year, and might bleed twice. That's it. So I could easily survive on 3 bottles of fluid for an entire year if I was worried about saving a few bucks.

I really really like the AMSOIL DOT4. The ease of maintenance from low bleeding, the pedal feel, the comparative cost, etc. There's no downside.
Old Jun 30, 2011, 07:12 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by boomn29
Pretty much at the midway point of the NASA season. Looking forward to making a few more changes and setting up strong for Nationals in September at Mid Ohio.

Haven't touched the brakes at all the past few events. The car is in the shop right now for a checkup, but when I get it back I plan to pop out all the pads and give them a good lookover. The fronts have been in there for 2 weekends now. I'll report back with wear rates, but the fluid in the top resevoir is still looking a very light tan color - awesome!
Got the car back in MY garage and up on jackstands. Changed the oil and popped out all the pads to check them out. The front wore down faster than I thought they would for 2 weekends (4 track days)! The rear (which still have ST43's) look nearly 2/3 still.

I took the opportunity to pull the rears and put new Hawk DTC60's back in. I feel better have the same pads all around. Below is a pic of the rears, lightly greased up before going in the car. I'll lightly grease the fronts and slot them back in. Then probably give the car a quick bleed with AMSoil DOT4 just to be safe! Next event July 9-10th!

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Old Jul 5, 2011, 08:23 AM
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Put the above new rear brake pads in. Also greased up the fronts before I put them back in; just took them out to check them over for any signs of uneven wear.

Figured I should bleed everything while I was at it. Took care of that and a quick testdrive afterwards confirmed everything feels good.
Oh, worth noting was the bolts that hold the brake caliper on the car were loose again; very loose on one side. I've got a brake ducting kit so I have non-factory bolts that I tighten with a 10mm Allen wrench; so it's hard to get them real good and tight. Worth checking...


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Last edited by boomn29; Jul 5, 2011 at 09:01 AM.
Old Jul 20, 2011, 06:45 AM
  #141  
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Dropped in a new set of front Hawk pads at the track this weekend. Also replaced one of my brake cooling ducts that was past it's prime. Brakes felt great! And no; I didn't bleed the fluid; no need with AMSoil DOT4!

A shot of the old pads:
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And the cooling duct replacement:
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by boomn29
I have a Motive Power Bleeder. It does the job just fine by putting pressure in the system so I just go around and crack the bleeder nipples.

The only thing that sucks about it - and maybe I'm doing something wrong - is when I do a full flush, it'll pump the reservoir full up to the top. That means when I'm done I have brake fluid up over the 'max' line and have to dab it out with a towel or something.

Boom... once upon a time I had an evo 8 and a motiv bleeder...

The best way to avoid a full reservoir is once you have completed your bleed, tilt the bottle to expose the plastic tube inside the bottle, then slowly crack open a bleed line to add just air to the reservoir until you achieve your desired level, you have to be careful as you don't want to inject air into your lines; once you avhieve your desired level close your bleed line, vent the bottle and your done!

I didn't read pages 2 and 3 so if this has already been cleared up I apologize for the double dip.

Stay safe on the track!
Old Jul 20, 2011, 08:42 PM
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I just got in a case of this at the shop, cant wait to try it.

Jay
Old Aug 17, 2011, 07:37 AM
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Ran another weekend at the track with great brakes. Still had not reason or need to even bleed the brakes beforehand.

Really love this fluid.

I started the year with a full flush as usual. I think I've only bled once this year, when I put in new front seals in May. That's been it.

16 trackdays too.
Old Aug 26, 2011, 07:34 AM
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Ah, the abuse that tracktime puts on the brake components!
Check this out, 10 track days on these. They're quality parts, just exhausted!

For a writeup I did earlier this year on rotors/pads check out: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...t-1-piece.html
For what I currently run on the car check out: http://boomn29.blogspot.com/p/car-setup.html

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New replacement rotors came last night - thanks to Jay at Andrews Racing as I order ALL my rotors and pads through him. Anyways, got them mounted up, the calipers back on and the new pads back in with everything tightened up. So the hardware in the front is ready to go!

I need to bleed everything yet before it's finished. So I'll pull the back tires off, hook up my power bleeder and bleed all 4 before I call it complete. Only takes maybe 20min with that fancy tool! I'll also be sure to check the pad wear (eyeball it) in the rear and make sure nothing is loose, nothing leaking, nothing scraping, etc. The usual...

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Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:28 PM
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After reading your thread I decided to switch over to the same brake fluid. I did one track day on Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear with Girodisc slotted rotors. Around the 3rd session I experienced heavy vibration in the steering wheel when braking from high speeds. The rotors look a bit grooved and aren't smooth at all like yours above. What's the deal?
Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DannyK24
After reading your thread I decided to switch over to the same brake fluid. I did one track day on Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear with Girodisc slotted rotors. Around the 3rd session I experienced heavy vibration in the steering wheel when braking from high speeds. The rotors look a bit grooved and aren't smooth at all like yours above. What's the deal?
the pads!
Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kyoo
the pads!
can I save the rotors if I swap out the pads or will I need to replace both? I just put the pads/rotors about 5k ago
Old Aug 26, 2011, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DannyK24
can I save the rotors if I swap out the pads or will I need to replace both? I just put the pads/rotors about 5k ago
i'm not sure to that extent but I've used the ferodo pads and they are definitely not a track pad, probably a better pad will function better on the track and wear on the rotors less
Old Aug 26, 2011, 06:09 PM
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also running amsoil dot4
they no longer sell it in canada
why not, who knows, its to good? ;/


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