My Experience with SPEC Clutch
Jan 28, 2010 | 07:34 AM
#31
Sorry about your trouble but thanks for posting this, this has helped solidify my new clutch choice - Exedy TD. Any links for the for mentioned new QM ?
Last edited by pfunk47; Jan 28, 2010 at 07:37 AM.
Jan 28, 2010 | 07:43 AM
#32
that is a massive amount of damage... in regards to the splines.. I am really curious to see if it was a possibility that the disc was on backwards or the sticker... just like Linuxman... I have the P-trim version in my car ..5600 miles and counting.
I truly feel for the OP and I am sorry for all your troubles. Many of us who have choosen to use this clutch wanted it because of the driveability and HP holding capabilities that were advertised by SPEC, All I have been seeing is horror stories, and very very very few success stories.. Like the OP said I did not sign up to be a guinea pig for SPEC.
now I wont be able to sleep at night, wondering when and where my 1400 dollar clutch is going to explode.
with that being said... I will continue to update my review So that others may benefit.
I truly feel for the OP and I am sorry for all your troubles. Many of us who have choosen to use this clutch wanted it because of the driveability and HP holding capabilities that were advertised by SPEC, All I have been seeing is horror stories, and very very very few success stories.. Like the OP said I did not sign up to be a guinea pig for SPEC.
now I wont be able to sleep at night, wondering when and where my 1400 dollar clutch is going to explode.
with that being said... I will continue to update my review So that others may benefit.
Jan 28, 2010 | 07:51 AM
#33
I think you would know, unless you're a complete freaking idiot, if you got one of these backwards. the old V1, it might have been possible, on the V2, the offset on the two discs would no doubt cause mechanical interference that should be readily noticeable the first time the car was cranked, if not found in mid-install.
Jan 28, 2010 | 08:40 AM
#34
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Allow me to clarify a few things gentlemen. The clutch was installed correctly (twice). The first time... the clutch was on the car for 200 miles and the input shaft showed premature wear. I replaced that input shaft. The second time around the clutch was on the car for about 2000 miles. This time around it complete chewed the input shaft. The reason why the second disk fell apart at the rivets is this:
Once the disk that sits on the end of the input shaft no longer made contact with the input shaft splines... the disk closest to the transmission was doing all the work of a 1100 ft/lbs clutch. The rivets simple could not hold on.
I was present for both installs in their entirety. I assure everyone here that this clutch was installed correctly. (ever see a clutch disk installed backwards make it 2000 miles... without slipping first?... me neither). Besides... I think Spec would have told me I installed the thing backwards.
Once the disk that sits on the end of the input shaft no longer made contact with the input shaft splines... the disk closest to the transmission was doing all the work of a 1100 ft/lbs clutch. The rivets simple could not hold on.
I was present for both installs in their entirety. I assure everyone here that this clutch was installed correctly. (ever see a clutch disk installed backwards make it 2000 miles... without slipping first?... me neither). Besides... I think Spec would have told me I installed the thing backwards.
Last edited by WickedWhtMR; Jan 28, 2010 at 08:43 AM.
Jan 28, 2010 | 08:55 AM
#36
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MAP sent me a rush delivery replacement clutch. They gave me a great deal on it. I ordered it Tuesday and Ill have it sometime today or tomorrow. Exedy HD with fork stop... I cant wait to get this and my NEW AGAIN TRE 2.5 trans. I just want to be able to drive my car at least 50% of this year.
Jan 28, 2010 | 09:29 AM
#37
MAP sent me a rush delivery replacement clutch. They gave me a great deal on it. I ordered it Tuesday and Ill have it sometime today or tomorrow. Exedy HD with fork stop... I cant wait to get this and my NEW AGAIN TRE 2.5 trans. I just want to be able to drive my car at least 50% of this year.
Good luck with the install.
Jan 28, 2010 | 09:44 AM
#38
Allow me to clarify a few things gentlemen. The clutch was installed correctly (twice). The first time... the clutch was on the car for 200 miles and the input shaft showed premature wear. I replaced that input shaft. The second time around the clutch was on the car for about 2000 miles. This time around it complete chewed the input shaft. The reason why the second disk fell apart at the rivets is this:
Once the disk that sits on the end of the input shaft no longer made contact with the input shaft splines... the disk closest to the transmission was doing all the work of a 1100 ft/lbs clutch. The rivets simple could not hold on.
I was present for both installs in their entirety. I assure everyone here that this clutch was installed correctly. (ever see a clutch disk installed backwards make it 2000 miles... without slipping first?... me neither). Besides... I think Spec would have told me I installed the thing backwards.
Once the disk that sits on the end of the input shaft no longer made contact with the input shaft splines... the disk closest to the transmission was doing all the work of a 1100 ft/lbs clutch. The rivets simple could not hold on.
I was present for both installs in their entirety. I assure everyone here that this clutch was installed correctly. (ever see a clutch disk installed backwards make it 2000 miles... without slipping first?... me neither). Besides... I think Spec would have told me I installed the thing backwards.
since you said you never even shifted above 4000rpm, we know its not the case of you over powering the clutch (which makes stripping the splines even more suspect). also, since you sent the clutch back, he measured the disk and they were within spec, it rules out manufacturer defects. since it is possible to install the disks backwards, and you had problems with it the second you installed it (as noted by your thread indicating you were hearing a very loud whining noise.. i've installed a bucnh of QM twins and never heard a noise with that RB), and it only lasted less the 2000 miles of very easy driving, i can only think the plates were labeled incorrectly thus installed backwards.
could spec chime in and show a diagram of the clutch install break down? it might shed some light on this.
Jan 28, 2010 | 10:03 AM
#39
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if the splines were the first to go, and the second disk was all that was holding it together, its not holding 1100ftlbs unless your engine is putting out 1100ftlbs of torque. if your just cruising around its barely any force at all. now if the first disk were stripped, and you were doing 7000rpm launches at the drag strip i could see the rivets all breaking if there were only one disk in there.
since you said you never even shifted above 4000rpm, we know its not the case of you over powering the clutch (which makes stripping the splines even more suspect). also, since you sent the clutch back, he measured the disk and they were within spec, it rules out manufacturer defects. since it is possible to install the disks backwards, and you had problems with it the second you installed it (as noted by your thread indicating you were hearing a very loud whining noise.. i've installed a bucnh of QM twins and never heard a noise with that RB), and it only lasted less the 2000 miles of very easy driving, i can only think the plates were labeled incorrectly thus installed backwards.
could spec chime in and show a diagram of the clutch install break down? it might shed some light on this.
since you said you never even shifted above 4000rpm, we know its not the case of you over powering the clutch (which makes stripping the splines even more suspect). also, since you sent the clutch back, he measured the disk and they were within spec, it rules out manufacturer defects. since it is possible to install the disks backwards, and you had problems with it the second you installed it (as noted by your thread indicating you were hearing a very loud whining noise.. i've installed a bucnh of QM twins and never heard a noise with that RB), and it only lasted less the 2000 miles of very easy driving, i can only think the plates were labeled incorrectly thus installed backwards.
could spec chime in and show a diagram of the clutch install break down? it might shed some light on this.
The first clutch sent had the TOB noise issue. (this clutch came out after 200 miles)
After installing the second clutch and TOB... I had no issue at all with the clutch. Until around 2000 miles when all hell broke loose. I was actually quite happy with the clutch until the night it failed. You know... I would love for Spec to chime in on this. I think that if spec believed I installed it wrong.. they wouldn't have given me a refund... my issue with Spec is simply this.. Their product cost me alot more money than it was supposed to. It ruined two input shafts and cause me to remove my transmission two additional times. I just wanted them to replace what they broke and let me go on about my business.
Now it turns out that this has happened to someone else...
-Rob
Jan 28, 2010 | 10:04 AM
#40
In all honesty getting your clutch refunded is a lot compared to the usual stories you hear when stuff goes wrong... I'd still give a thumbs up to spec for standing up for that, even though the clutch sucks 
Jan 28, 2010 | 10:11 AM
#41
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On a side note... Here is a break down..
Two new input shafts.
Two new clutch kits ( both with new disks)
Two new TOB
Two damaged input shafts... you think that they may have labeled both sets of disks wrong?
Two new input shafts.
Two new clutch kits ( both with new disks)
Two new TOB
Two damaged input shafts... you think that they may have labeled both sets of disks wrong?
Jan 28, 2010 | 10:13 AM
#42
if the splines were the first to go, and the second disk was all that was holding it together, its not holding 1100ftlbs unless your engine is putting out 1100ftlbs of torque. if your just cruising around its barely any force at all. now if the first disk were stripped, and you were doing 7000rpm launches at the drag strip i could see the rivets all breaking if there were only one disk in there.
since you said you never even shifted above 4000rpm, we know its not the case of you over powering the clutch (which makes stripping the splines even more suspect). also, since you sent the clutch back, he measured the disk and they were within spec, it rules out manufacturer defects. since it is possible to install the disks backwards, and you had problems with it the second you installed it (as noted by your thread indicating you were hearing a very loud whining noise.. i've installed a bucnh of QM twins and never heard a noise with that RB), and it only lasted less the 2000 miles of very easy driving, i can only think the plates were labeled incorrectly thus installed backwards.
could spec chime in and show a diagram of the clutch install break down? it might shed some light on this.
since you said you never even shifted above 4000rpm, we know its not the case of you over powering the clutch (which makes stripping the splines even more suspect). also, since you sent the clutch back, he measured the disk and they were within spec, it rules out manufacturer defects. since it is possible to install the disks backwards, and you had problems with it the second you installed it (as noted by your thread indicating you were hearing a very loud whining noise.. i've installed a bucnh of QM twins and never heard a noise with that RB), and it only lasted less the 2000 miles of very easy driving, i can only think the plates were labeled incorrectly thus installed backwards.
could spec chime in and show a diagram of the clutch install break down? it might shed some light on this.
I've driven the car and it was fine until it went. I'm sure a little more r&d and this clutch will be pretty nice. Until then more of these will surface...
Cheers!
Jan 28, 2010 | 10:24 AM
#44
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Although my pictures aren't as clear and well taken, you'll get the point.
My path with the Spec supertwin follows the OP's exactly. I have a throwout bearing (the QM TOB) that sounded like a cricket on crack, quite loud and annoying. Whether this was a precursor to clutch failure or not, I don't know. What I do know is, I did the install myself, and I can verify it was done 100% correctly. Install is/was not an issue. Beyond the TOB noise, my Spec clutch did great for about 3,000 miles. I took it easy for maybe 1,000 miles, but then drove it like I normally do, hard! I never launch my car, ever. I never go full throttle in first on the street, it's about useless with my setup. But 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, I shift like it's meant to be shifted at full throttle. Anyway, I'm driving to work at sane speeds and attitude, a simple 4th to 5th gear shift and I felt a clunk. Coming up to the next stop light, it was hard to get into gear, was making a racket, and after 3 more shifts I had to make to just baby the car to work I knew something was totally wrong. Towed the car home that night after work, and here is what I found. Very similar to the OP's photos.
I won't go into my conversations with Spec, as they are now "reactivated" based on this thread. Spec has treated me well on the phone and via email, but it looks like I'm not the only one experiencing this issue.
My path with the Spec supertwin follows the OP's exactly. I have a throwout bearing (the QM TOB) that sounded like a cricket on crack, quite loud and annoying. Whether this was a precursor to clutch failure or not, I don't know. What I do know is, I did the install myself, and I can verify it was done 100% correctly. Install is/was not an issue. Beyond the TOB noise, my Spec clutch did great for about 3,000 miles. I took it easy for maybe 1,000 miles, but then drove it like I normally do, hard! I never launch my car, ever. I never go full throttle in first on the street, it's about useless with my setup. But 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, I shift like it's meant to be shifted at full throttle. Anyway, I'm driving to work at sane speeds and attitude, a simple 4th to 5th gear shift and I felt a clunk. Coming up to the next stop light, it was hard to get into gear, was making a racket, and after 3 more shifts I had to make to just baby the car to work I knew something was totally wrong. Towed the car home that night after work, and here is what I found. Very similar to the OP's photos.
I won't go into my conversations with Spec, as they are now "reactivated" based on this thread. Spec has treated me well on the phone and via email, but it looks like I'm not the only one experiencing this issue.
This guy... he posted on the first page of this thread
Jan 28, 2010 | 10:27 AM
#45
who can i email pictures to.....i dont know alot about this interweb stuff, but i have spec pics from the first failure at 3000 miles, it was a manufacturing mistake......or quality control, the second appears to be an issue with the hardening process.....i brought the issue up with jeremy, he questioned my ability to judge that hardened metal breaks, and not hardened material distorts.......prime example is the input shaft splines....they are hardened, they are missing.........the splines on the hub of the clutch on the other hand have distorted. crazy