Safety Measures with SMC version 2
#1
Safety Measures with SMC version 2
I was planning on tapping the pump wire to activate and deactivate my boost control and switch maps. But I heard a more reliable method would be to buy in inline pressure switch. Where can I buy one of these, also I heard there was a solenoid method that you could use to just run wastegate pressure, again where can I buy this as I have just a hallman mbc.
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
#2
Originally Posted by johnjonfenomeno
I was planning on tapping the pump wire to activate and deactivate my boost control and switch maps. But I heard a more reliable method would be to buy in inline pressure switch. Where can I buy one of these, also I heard there was a solenoid method that you could use to just run wastegate pressure, again where can I buy this as I have just a hallman mbc.
Thanks,
John
Thanks,
John
#3
What is wrong with your V2 controller? I know the V3 is coming out but is not like you need it right now, look at some other systems out there, they are not even progresive...
Just wait and you will get your reward . Those things(V3 system) takes a while to test them and certify them for reliability, I rather wait and know that is not going to blow up.
Carlos
Just wait and you will get your reward . Those things(V3 system) takes a while to test them and certify them for reliability, I rather wait and know that is not going to blow up.
Carlos
#5
Yea they have been saying it will released soon since NOV when I was using SMC kits, I since switched over to Snow Performance. As for a failsafe, get a form of EM that can retard massive timing in case of knock and you really don't have to worry about a failsafe on the kit. I use both my UTEC and the snow performance failsafe for my car...
#6
With my SP safe injection, I ran the pump dry durring a pull to watch the failsafe in action - As advertised, amber LED light illuminated and boost guage at 12 psi.
Once tuned and boosting at 26 psi (i was 22 psi) I might be a little more hesitant to try this.
Once tuned and boosting at 26 psi (i was 22 psi) I might be a little more hesitant to try this.
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#8
Originally Posted by Ultimate CC
As for a failsafe, get a form of EM that can retard massive timing in case of knock and you really don't have to worry about a failsafe on the kit. I use both my UTEC and the snow performance failsafe for my car...
But that's only a suggestion if you plan on running EMS.
#10
There is an excellent post created By Tommy aka GTEVO on how to make this work.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ighlight=GTEVO
I was on the phone with SMC like two days ago. He indicated the version 3 controller will come with three adjustable knobs. You still have the two start and max plus a third know will be added (this is the failsafe knob) the way it works is, You set the failsafe knob to a desired boost level, If there is no pump pressure (relates to no voltage over 4.5 in the pump wire) when that boost level is met then the solenoid which T's into the line between the wastgate and the turbo opens causing you to run just WG pressure.
I guess this is good for those of you that don't have the advantage of using a stand alone engine mgmt system like the AEM combined with a AEM controlled ebcs (perrin ebcs or gm boost solenoid personally i like the perrin better cause it takes less current draw). But if you do have an AEM or other engine mgmt you can achieve the same results.
Ok the way the SMC on the V2 kits work is the pump wire only activates over 4.5 volts when over 40psi is seen. If not no signal is sent out. The unit on top of the pump is in fact a pressure switch which regulates this. Try this experiment at home drain the tank and prime the unit while having a volt meter attached to this wire or just observe your active lite (yellow light) it wont give any signal. You can use this to drive an aftermarket ebcs if using AEM by creating a hi (when alky is present) or lo (no spray is present) setting. Plus this signal could aslo be used to drive a switch for your maps. Like I said this set up is designed for those that have the advantage of an aftermarket standalone combined with a ebcs. If you have an aftermarket stand alone but are running a manual boost control, then I would suggest buying a solenoid to just tap into the line between the WG and the turbo and just have the solenoid close when it sees alky pressure and open when it sees no pressure.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ighlight=GTEVO
I was on the phone with SMC like two days ago. He indicated the version 3 controller will come with three adjustable knobs. You still have the two start and max plus a third know will be added (this is the failsafe knob) the way it works is, You set the failsafe knob to a desired boost level, If there is no pump pressure (relates to no voltage over 4.5 in the pump wire) when that boost level is met then the solenoid which T's into the line between the wastgate and the turbo opens causing you to run just WG pressure.
I guess this is good for those of you that don't have the advantage of using a stand alone engine mgmt system like the AEM combined with a AEM controlled ebcs (perrin ebcs or gm boost solenoid personally i like the perrin better cause it takes less current draw). But if you do have an AEM or other engine mgmt you can achieve the same results.
Ok the way the SMC on the V2 kits work is the pump wire only activates over 4.5 volts when over 40psi is seen. If not no signal is sent out. The unit on top of the pump is in fact a pressure switch which regulates this. Try this experiment at home drain the tank and prime the unit while having a volt meter attached to this wire or just observe your active lite (yellow light) it wont give any signal. You can use this to drive an aftermarket ebcs if using AEM by creating a hi (when alky is present) or lo (no spray is present) setting. Plus this signal could aslo be used to drive a switch for your maps. Like I said this set up is designed for those that have the advantage of an aftermarket standalone combined with a ebcs. If you have an aftermarket stand alone but are running a manual boost control, then I would suggest buying a solenoid to just tap into the line between the WG and the turbo and just have the solenoid close when it sees alky pressure and open when it sees no pressure.
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