I was planning on tapping the pump wire to activate and deactivate my boost control and switch maps. But I heard a more reliable method would be to buy in inline pressure switch. Where can I buy one of these, also I heard there was a solenoid method that you could use to just run wastegate pressure, again where can I buy this as I have just a hallman mbc.

Thanks,
John

 

subscribing. i'm tired of sitting on my v2 and waiting for the v3 controller. its been almost 6 months now. i was promised it was going to be out "no later than two months" from when i bought it. bs. i'm seriously considering selling it if i can't find someone who has retrofitted a failsafe to this kit.

 

What is wrong with your V2 controller? I know the V3 is coming out but is not like you need it right now, look at some other systems out there, they are not even progresive...


Just wait and you will get your reward . Those things(V3 system) takes a while to test them and certify them for reliability, I rather wait and know that is not going to blow up.

Carlos

 

there is nothing wrong with the controller. i haven't even installed the kit yet due to time issues and the fact that i'm waiting for v3.

 

Yea they have been saying it will released soon since NOV when I was using SMC kits, I since switched over to Snow Performance. As for a failsafe, get a form of EM that can retard massive timing in case of knock and you really don't have to worry about a failsafe on the kit. I use both my UTEC and the snow performance failsafe for my car...

 

With my SP safe injection, I ran the pump dry durring a pull to watch the failsafe in action - As advertised, amber LED light illuminated and boost guage at 12 psi.

Once tuned and boosting at 26 psi (i was 22 psi) I might be a little more hesitant to try this.

 

I have tried this many times, it feels like you hit a brick wall, between the timing being pulled (UTEC) and boost being dropped (SafeInjection) its a nice combo...

 

I'm with Ultimate on this one. I've been using ver 1 since day one. Dave ran it through the EMS, so if the alky doesn't spray, the EMS won't add fuel and timing. Plus when it sprays my SES light comes on, and I can usually see it since it flashes at you very quickly when I glance at the tach .

But that's only a suggestion if you plan on running EMS.

 

I use the V2 with no problems. Im sure Steve is hard at work trying to improve his already excellent product.

 

There is an excellent post created By Tommy aka GTEVO on how to make this work.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ighlight=GTEVO

I was on the phone with SMC like two days ago. He indicated the version 3 controller will come with three adjustable knobs. You still have the two start and max plus a third know will be added (this is the failsafe knob) the way it works is, You set the failsafe knob to a desired boost level, If there is no pump pressure (relates to no voltage over 4.5 in the pump wire) when that boost level is met then the solenoid which T's into the line between the wastgate and the turbo opens causing you to run just WG pressure.

I guess this is good for those of you that don't have the advantage of using a stand alone engine mgmt system like the AEM combined with a AEM controlled ebcs (perrin ebcs or gm boost solenoid personally i like the perrin better cause it takes less current draw). But if you do have an AEM or other engine mgmt you can achieve the same results.

Ok the way the SMC on the V2 kits work is the pump wire only activates over 4.5 volts when over 40psi is seen. If not no signal is sent out. The unit on top of the pump is in fact a pressure switch which regulates this. Try this experiment at home drain the tank and prime the unit while having a volt meter attached to this wire or just observe your active lite (yellow light) it wont give any signal. You can use this to drive an aftermarket ebcs if using AEM by creating a hi (when alky is present) or lo (no spray is present) setting. Plus this signal could aslo be used to drive a switch for your maps. Like I said this set up is designed for those that have the advantage of an aftermarket standalone combined with a ebcs. If you have an aftermarket stand alone but are running a manual boost control, then I would suggest buying a solenoid to just tap into the line between the WG and the turbo and just have the solenoid close when it sees alky pressure and open when it sees no pressure.

 

The V3 kit will work great, but if you have an upgraded WG then your may still be running 18-20psi.

 

when is the V3 controller coming out, any word?

 

bump also want to know when V3 will come out