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Alky kit w/o solenoid valve...not good!

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Old Jan 1, 2008, 05:30 PM
  #31  
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Mind putting an arrow overlay on the image, difficult to pin point the meth.
Old Jan 1, 2008, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Phenix_fyah
A system with a large nozzle+High pressure Pump+Check Valve =

Noticed Meth in the Intercooler after removing the Turbo.
at least you know your IC is nicely degreased...

there is a huge amount of fluid pooled in the ic...hmm fire hazard + corrosion?

Checkvalve FTL

Solenoid valve FTW
Old Jan 1, 2008, 08:28 PM
  #33  
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SO, I understand what I solenoid does. How does a check valve work?
Old Jan 2, 2008, 02:10 AM
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A checkvalve is just a one way valve. Some are spring loaded so that it requires a certain amount of pressure to push the valve open.

A typical checkvalve:



A checkvalve is normally used on a budget system to simplify installation and reduce circuitry cost of controlling a solenoid valve.

Last edited by Richard L; Jan 2, 2008 at 02:14 AM.
Old Jan 2, 2008, 04:55 AM
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cross-section of swagelok checkvalve

Old Jan 2, 2008, 08:35 AM
  #36  
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Ok, gotcha!

So the only purpose of a checkvalve is to stop boost from blowing in the meth line, and raise the amount of pressure required to push the meth out....

Where as a solenoid is always either on or off... never inbetween
Old Jan 2, 2008, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by coolingmist;
.
.
- Use the "on-demand" switch on "cyclic" mode.

All US based companies do this. So you are the only reputable company?
.
.
.
Old Jan 4, 2008, 01:35 PM
  #38  
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So, I have another question. I dont' really want to run my pump progressively. I want it to be an on/off function, or at least clost to it.

I have a Stage 2 Snow boost cooler coming in the mail. And for safety reasons I purchased the solenoid/failsafe from Labonte motorsports.

Now that I am nearly broke, instead of replacing my controller with a Hobbs pressure switch and relay, what if I just adjusted my dials.

It has two dials on the controller. One to start spraying, which will be at 10% of peak pressure, and the second knob you set to max pressure. The controller is supposed to fill in a linear adjustment, so you have a "progressive" increase until it reaches 100%. Now..... what if I set my begin spray pressure to say 11psi, and my max at 12psi, but I'm running 20psi? Will it spray 10%at 11psi, and then just jump to 100% at 12psi and hold it until I drop below the 11psi? Then I would have a "makeshift" on/off system. I'm just trying to figure this out because I have no more money to purchase more stuff after all the crap I have already bought.
Old Jan 4, 2008, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by steadly2004
So, I have another question. I dont' really want to run my pump progressively. I want it to be an on/off function, or at least clost to it.

I have a Stage 2 Snow boost cooler coming in the mail. And for safety reasons I purchased the solenoid/failsafe from Labonte motorsports.

Now that I am nearly broke, instead of replacing my controller with a Hobbs pressure switch and relay, what if I just adjusted my dials.

It has two dials on the controller. One to start spraying, which will be at 10% of peak pressure, and the second knob you set to max pressure. The controller is supposed to fill in a linear adjustment, so you have a "progressive" increase until it reaches 100%. Now..... what if I set my begin spray pressure to say 11psi, and my max at 12psi, but I'm running 20psi? Will it spray 10%at 11psi, and then just jump to 100% at 12psi and hold it until I drop below the 11psi? Then I would have a "makeshift" on/off system. I'm just trying to figure this out because I have no more money to purchase more stuff after all the crap I have already bought.
the progressive pump speed injection theory works flawless on paper...in real life, it just doesnt work that way - the pump rotor is just too massive to respond to the transients (both +ve and -ve) in real life driving, resulting in the constant under/over injection.

to double flow rate, line pressure has to be upped 4X!



the mad swing in the line pressure results in atomization that is all over the place and the result can be felt...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=299301

remove the uncertainty (the controller) from of the equation and run a constant pressure on-off injection system
Old Jun 10, 2008, 07:24 PM
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All these proclaimed solenoid valves. Which are 100% meth resistant? I would much rather a electronic, but i've had nothing but bad luck with the solenoid units. I have one sitting useless because i'm running 100% meth.

Checkvalve it is till updates.
Old Jun 10, 2008, 07:25 PM
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i need something, 380 for a idle stepper motor dang, oh i have a aquamist kit that is causing my idle stepper motor to go out
Old Jun 10, 2008, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
All these proclaimed solenoid valves. Which are 100% meth resistant? I would much rather a electronic, but i've had nothing but bad luck with the solenoid units. I have one sitting useless because i'm running 100% meth.

Checkvalve it is till updates.
jeff, whose solenoid valve are you using?
Old Jun 10, 2008, 09:50 PM
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very informative thread
Old Jun 10, 2008, 10:32 PM
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Evoryder,

7876K11
Delrin Solenoid Valve Normally Closed, 18" Leads, 1/4" NPT Female
$41.24 Each

I have been using these solenoids from McMaster Carr for a year now on 100% Meth with very good results. I check for leaks about every 2 months and so far so good. Just be careful how much you tighten the fittings into them. They are plastic and will crack if you over tighten them.
Old Jun 11, 2008, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Evoryder
All these proclaimed solenoid valves. Which are 100% meth resistant? I would much rather a electronic, but i've had nothing but bad luck with the solenoid units. I have one sitting useless because i'm running 100% meth.

Checkvalve it is till updates.
We have been using solenoid valves since 1992 and don't see any problems. What kind of solenoid valves were you using?

Providing the wetted materials are "water and alcohol" compatible, threis little else to go wrong.

I have seen many inappropriate mechnical/electrical specifications incompatibily issues.

Mechanical:
- Orifice size vs pressure (must be matched)
- return spring vs coil current.

Electrical:
- Coil current vs Coil surface area (adequate heat dissipation in a given environment)
- Temperature rise vs duty cycle.
- Coil current vs opening/shutting speed.

A good valve supplier should give you the correct advice on a valve suiable for your application. If it fails, it should not be your fault, return it to the supplier for a refund.


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