Upgraded the tank for my Aquamist kit
#1
Upgraded the tank for my Aquamist kit
Before:
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/hfs5_2.jpg)
After:
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/alky_tank.jpg)
I originally installed my Aquamist HFS-5 kit with a tank that was vented through the cap threads. I also installed my pickup on the side of the tank. It looked nice, but there were some key flaws once I hit the road course. First, in high-G cornering, the alcohol would slosh so much that I would find it on my trunk floor when I came into the pits (it leaked out through the cap threads). Also, I mounted the level sensor a little bit too high so that in high-G corners, it would flicker even when the tank was between 1/3 to 1/2 full. Finally, in normal street driving the alcohol fumes (denatured then) really bothered me. I could smell it and sometimes it even irritated my eyes (my eyes are particularly sensitive for some reason). Now that I'm running methanol, I really don't want any fumes in the car since they are highly toxic and carcinogenic.
This fuel cell has a number of advantages over my old setup. First, it's externally vented under the car, so all of the fumes go out of the passenger compartment. And even if the car flips, the methanol will not leak out. With my old thread-vented cap, if I turned the tank upside down, the fluid would leak out fairly quickly. Also, when I am in a racing situation where I'm not using the methanol (SCCA events for example where alcohol injection isn't allowed), I can easily drain the tank using the petcock/barb. This will also come in handy when the car is parked for an extended period in the winter time. This time around I mounted the pickup on the bottom so that there would be less chance of starvation in cornering. I also mounted the low level sensor lower. If it still gives me problems, I'll probably just disable it. Finally, the cell is much easier to fill because the cap is much bigger in diameter.
The tank cost about $90 from Summit Racing (Jr. Dragster tank) and I installed it using Home Depot supplies. Considering the added safety of this setup (especially if you are running 100% alky/methanol), I think it's worth the cost and a good thing to consider for anyone installing a kit.
Thanks for reading
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/hfs5_2.jpg)
After:
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/alky_tank.jpg)
I originally installed my Aquamist HFS-5 kit with a tank that was vented through the cap threads. I also installed my pickup on the side of the tank. It looked nice, but there were some key flaws once I hit the road course. First, in high-G cornering, the alcohol would slosh so much that I would find it on my trunk floor when I came into the pits (it leaked out through the cap threads). Also, I mounted the level sensor a little bit too high so that in high-G corners, it would flicker even when the tank was between 1/3 to 1/2 full. Finally, in normal street driving the alcohol fumes (denatured then) really bothered me. I could smell it and sometimes it even irritated my eyes (my eyes are particularly sensitive for some reason). Now that I'm running methanol, I really don't want any fumes in the car since they are highly toxic and carcinogenic.
This fuel cell has a number of advantages over my old setup. First, it's externally vented under the car, so all of the fumes go out of the passenger compartment. And even if the car flips, the methanol will not leak out. With my old thread-vented cap, if I turned the tank upside down, the fluid would leak out fairly quickly. Also, when I am in a racing situation where I'm not using the methanol (SCCA events for example where alcohol injection isn't allowed), I can easily drain the tank using the petcock/barb. This will also come in handy when the car is parked for an extended period in the winter time. This time around I mounted the pickup on the bottom so that there would be less chance of starvation in cornering. I also mounted the low level sensor lower. If it still gives me problems, I'll probably just disable it. Finally, the cell is much easier to fill because the cap is much bigger in diameter.
The tank cost about $90 from Summit Racing (Jr. Dragster tank) and I installed it using Home Depot supplies. Considering the added safety of this setup (especially if you are running 100% alky/methanol), I think it's worth the cost and a good thing to consider for anyone installing a kit.
Thanks for reading
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Last edited by EVO8LTW; May 13, 2008 at 07:09 PM. Reason: replaced photo with a better one
#3
The cell came with foam, which I took out because I'm not confident in its ability to withstand methanol. If I still have sloshing issues, I'll probably look into methanol-safe foam. I worry that any foam could potentially start to break down and clog the filter.
#5
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I believe methonal was used extensively in recing until Indy cars switched to ethanol. The chemical properties between methanol and ethanol is very close, so if a foam is compatible with ethanol, it should be OK with methanol. Drop a small piece in bottle filled with methanol and see what happen after few months.
Less-than-pure Ethanol is readily available in the form of denaturared alcohol - try to avoid until you know what the dnaturant used is.
The new tank arrangement is very nice.
Less-than-pure Ethanol is readily available in the form of denaturared alcohol - try to avoid until you know what the dnaturant used is.
The new tank arrangement is very nice.
#6
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Before:
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/hfs5_2.jpg)
After:
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/DSCN0505.jpg)
I originally installed my Aquamist HFS-5 kit with a tank that was vented through the cap threads. I also installed my pickup on the side of the tank. It looked nice, but there were some key flaws once I hit the road course. First, in high-G cornering, the alcohol would slosh so much that I would find it on my trunk floor when I came into the pits (it leaked out through the cap threads). Also, I mounted the level sensor a little bit too high so that in high-G corners, it would flicker even when the tank was between 1/3 to 1/2 full. Finally, in normal street driving the alcohol fumes (denatured then) really bothered me. I could smell it and sometimes it even irritated my eyes (my eyes are particularly sensitive for some reason). Now that I'm running methanol, I really don't want any fumes in the car since they are highly toxic and carcinogenic.
This fuel cell has a number of advantages over my old setup. First, it's externally vented under the car, so all of the fumes go out of the passenger compartment. And even if the car flips, the methanol will not leak out. With my old thread-vented cap, if I turned the tank upside down, the fluid would leak out fairly quickly. Also, when I am in a racing situation where I'm not using the methanol (SCCA events for example where alcohol injection isn't allowed), I can easily drain the tank using the petcock/barb. This will also come in handy when the car is parked for an extended period in the winter time. This time around I mounted the pickup on the bottom so that there would be less chance of starvation in cornering. I also mounted the low level sensor lower. If it still gives me problems, I'll probably just disable it. Finally, the cell is much easier to fill because the cap is much bigger in diameter.
The tank cost about $90 from Summit Racing (Jr. Dragster tank) and I installed it using Home Depot supplies. Considering the added safety of this setup (especially if you are running 100% alky/methanol), I think it's worth the cost and a good thing to consider for anyone installing a kit.
Thanks for reading![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/hfs5_2.jpg)
After:
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/DSCN0505.jpg)
I originally installed my Aquamist HFS-5 kit with a tank that was vented through the cap threads. I also installed my pickup on the side of the tank. It looked nice, but there were some key flaws once I hit the road course. First, in high-G cornering, the alcohol would slosh so much that I would find it on my trunk floor when I came into the pits (it leaked out through the cap threads). Also, I mounted the level sensor a little bit too high so that in high-G corners, it would flicker even when the tank was between 1/3 to 1/2 full. Finally, in normal street driving the alcohol fumes (denatured then) really bothered me. I could smell it and sometimes it even irritated my eyes (my eyes are particularly sensitive for some reason). Now that I'm running methanol, I really don't want any fumes in the car since they are highly toxic and carcinogenic.
This fuel cell has a number of advantages over my old setup. First, it's externally vented under the car, so all of the fumes go out of the passenger compartment. And even if the car flips, the methanol will not leak out. With my old thread-vented cap, if I turned the tank upside down, the fluid would leak out fairly quickly. Also, when I am in a racing situation where I'm not using the methanol (SCCA events for example where alcohol injection isn't allowed), I can easily drain the tank using the petcock/barb. This will also come in handy when the car is parked for an extended period in the winter time. This time around I mounted the pickup on the bottom so that there would be less chance of starvation in cornering. I also mounted the low level sensor lower. If it still gives me problems, I'll probably just disable it. Finally, the cell is much easier to fill because the cap is much bigger in diameter.
The tank cost about $90 from Summit Racing (Jr. Dragster tank) and I installed it using Home Depot supplies. Considering the added safety of this setup (especially if you are running 100% alky/methanol), I think it's worth the cost and a good thing to consider for anyone installing a kit.
Thanks for reading
![Smilie](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Thumbs Up](https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/images/smilies/smilie_thumbsup.gif)
ps you should take another shot of it cuz its kinda dark ..damn shadows lol
#7
![](http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z6/jonstnre/alky_tank.jpg)
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#10
The vent hose is routed out through the bumper vent and tied up with a loop inside the rear bumper cover. This is what Jaz advised.
Yes, 1 gallon.
To check the level, open the cap and look inside or wait for the low level light to come on. Yeah...that's a downside.
#11
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Yes, petcock came with it. Very convenient.
The vent hose is routed out through the bumper vent and tied up with a loop inside the rear bumper cover. This is what Jaz advised.
Yes, 1 gallon.
To check the level, open the cap and look inside or wait for the low level light to come on. Yeah...that's a downside.
The vent hose is routed out through the bumper vent and tied up with a loop inside the rear bumper cover. This is what Jaz advised.
Yes, 1 gallon.
To check the level, open the cap and look inside or wait for the low level light to come on. Yeah...that's a downside.
I really wish there was a way to see the level though. Do you know if they make one with a view slot?
#15
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I have already disabled my sensor from tripping the failsafe. Currently if it hits the low level it just turn on the lights on the gauge but it will still spray. I wonder how I might wire up another low level sensor without having to add a lot of wiring or extra LED's