drifterific

iTrader: (10)

So I recently did a post of my devils own water injection kit install and how I installed it into the engine bay using the factory intercooler sprayer tank. Well I had been reading on Aquamist and watching the videos on Howerton engineering and decides that I wanted to use an Aquamist kit over any other kit due to the adjustability, control, fail safe, map switching and the gauge that lets me know when the kit is active.

The wiring was very straight forward and simple and as easy as the devils own kit which needed a power and ground. The complete install took me around 3 hours to complete and much of that was just contemplation on how to run everything. I have yet to loom the harness yet because I wanted to make sure the install was working correctly before I taped it and loomed it. I am still contemplating a direct port set up using a older Magnus sheet metal intake manifold along with a single 1.0 nozzle around 16 inches away from the throttle body in the upper intercooler pipe. I am running 50/50 and have read that many people are having good luck running a nozzle around 16 inches and a nozzle around 8 inches away from the throttle body. Every component of this kit was mounted in the engine bay minus the control box.

Any feed back would be great about the direct port set up or just a dual nozzle set up in the upper intercooler pipe. Anyways enough babbling here are some pics.


I used the post in the fuse box to supply the 12 volt constant to the pump and used the chassis ground that is a few inches away to the right.


I mounted the Aquamist pump where I had originally mounted the devils own pump on the frame rail and wrapped it with heat shielding tape to protect it from heat. The pump stays cool to the touch even though it is close to the radiator.





I had the flow control module mounted on the firewall but did not like how hot it was getting so I made a carbon fiber panel and mounted it to the divers side motor mount to mount the flow control module and MAC valve. I am going to use the MAC valve to control boost and wire the fail safe to switch maps. (If anyone knows what pin on the ecu that goes to, it would be appreciated if you told me which one it is)





1.0 Nozzle on the upper intercooler pipe.


Engine bay shot


I passed everything into the main harness rubber boot and used electrical tape around the RJ-45 connector to prevent it from breaking or getting caught and placed the control box in the glove box.


Wideband and Aquamist gauge on the steering column

MR. EVO MR

iTrader: (9)

Nice self install, wish I had the patience like you do.
Two questions.
1. Seen most guys running two nozzles, why one?
2. once everything warms up in the engine bay, will that heat shielding still be of use?

drifterific

iTrader: (10)

I was planning a Direct Port injection install with the devils own kit, but I am contemplating a Direct Port install with this kit. Im working out the pricing for Direct Port with the aquamist nozzles and I am still researching if Direct port will be beneficial for my power level. Im on stock, block, stock head, 3 in turbo back, O2 dump housing, Intake running tephra v7 and speed density. Im going to see what Jeff from HE thinks about the set up and if he would recommend a dual nozzle set up over direct port. I am leaning more towards the dual nozzle set up over direct port until next year when I do a full build.

The heat shielding works great, my aluminum intake pipe will be warm and the aquamist pump is still very cool to the touch. It was the same in the warmer months with the devils own pump.

Teal2nnr

iTrader: (7)

IMO your Meth nozzle is WAY to close to your TB....unless there is a second one i'm not seeing

esevo

iTrader: (11)

No thats the IAT sensor your seeing. Long term use it would wear out the sensor... but not crazy problem cause they are cheap and vary upon length of life.

I would suggest dual point of injection. It helps a lot.


Evan Smith

drifterific

iTrader: (10)

Yeah that is my IAT sensor that is close to the throttle body.
Im starting to lean more towards the dual nozzle set up over direct port since I am going to keep the tune pretty conservative and will not utilize the full benefits of DPI.

I have a 1mm nozzle around 18 inches away from the throttle body and was thinking about running a .4 nozzle around 8 inches away from the throttle body as the second point of injection. I do have a second 1mm nozzle that I could use but I think that would be to much water/meth(50/50) for my set up. Any thoughts on this?

mt057

iTrader: (6)

I think it depends on what boost/timing you are trying to run. I am not sure if you need two 1mm jets but its all in what you tune for lol. I can't decide if I should up mine to 2 1mm jets. I had a 1mm and .8mm on with my HFS-1 but I felt like it was overspraying a little. I just finished up installing my HFS-3 and can not wait to start tuning. I am hoping that the 1mm and .8mm will be enough for me to run the same timing as before. It seems that due to IDC I will be flowing less methanol than before.

drifterific

iTrader: (10)

See thats what I was thinking about also. Im not to sure on how much timing I want to at peak boost and at redline. I see some people running around 8 degrees peak and around 16-18 at red line. If my calculations are correct my sureflow pumps 165psi and I want to run between 25-30lbs once I finish my safemap tune.

So 165psi-20psi(boost pressure) = 145 = 557.5 cc/min on a 1.0mm nozzle

165psi-25psi = 140 = 548 cc/min on a 1.0 mm nozzle

165psi-30psi = 135 = 538 cc/min on a 1.0 mm nozzle

The thing that gets me a bit confused is that the system is based off of IDC and currently Im only getting max of around 55% IDC so does that mean that the flow numbers I listed above would be cut in half? If it works like that then dual 1.0 mm nozzles would work for my set up. Also there is a trim that is +/- 20% that I could use to get the flow down also.

Im running 4 PTE 1000cc injectors and when I work out the calculations on Howerton Engineering it nets me at 660cc of 50/50(water/meth) at 15% fuel replacement and 880cc at 20% fuel replacement and both numbers include the 10% fluid loss. http://www.howertonengineering.com/Jet_Calc.html

So at 30psi with dual 1.0mm nozzles it will equal 1,076 cc/min but with a trim down of -20% would get me at around 861cc/min which is a bit less than 20% of fuel replacement. But the problem I am running into is if I am running 50-55% IDC does that bring this number down to 430.5 cc/min? Maybe I am over analyzing the calculations, lol. I just want to do it right the first time.

5LEEPERISAH23I

iTrader: (23)

looks clean!

drifterific

iTrader: (10)

Thank you for the compliment, im planning on cleaning it up with full -4 AN fittings and lines once I decide on a second nozzle.

mt057

iTrader: (6)

I ended up using a 1 and .8 jets. I also put in the largest restrictor in at .9 (which may be overkill any ideas?).

The end result was I could throw my old timing back at it with no issues. I still need to lean out the fuel map though. I was flowing over 750cc before now I am around 650cc including idc. I was running about 5-6 at peak torque and about 13 or so at red line. Remember to watch for mbt when tuning it is easy to pass.

drifterific

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I may just try the .8 jet with a restrictor like in your set up. I looked in my flow control module and I currently do not have a restrictor right now, but when I order the AN fittings from HE will have them do a restrictor in the fitting. Ill keep that in mind when tuning, I have the Aquamist off at the moment because I am working on my pump gas map for fail safe and I am still tuning speed density also to get the kinks worked out.

mt057 do you know which pin on the ecu is the map switching wire? Also if I am understanding this correctly the Alt map is where I will put my fail safe map and my main maps will be where I put my meth maps or is it the other way around.

drifterific

iTrader: (10)

Alright so I went back and re-read Schiedes thread https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/wa...ther-last.html and went further into the thread and found the answer that I was looking for as far as the ecu pin number needed for the 8.

Here are the links

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/5867158-post48.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/5909780-post79.html

This link is for the 9
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/5909788-post80.html

Now im still unsure on which map you start out with and which map is the fail safe. Looking at the wiring diagram for the HFS-6 ( http://www.aquamist.co.uk/HFS6/EVO/EVO8-HFS6-MBC.pdf )it shows the fail safe to drop boost but I want it to switch maps for me in the event of a fail safe activations. The diagram shows a blue and a red wire. I would assume that one goes to pin 42 and the other one to the ecu ground pin 26, is that the right way to hook this up for map switching?

mt057

iTrader: (6)

The fail safe can drop boost or switch to and alternate map or both. I am going wire in my map switching and then use my ebc for boost control so I also wired in the boost cut as well. I am installing a switch to override the failsafe, because I run 28psi on my pump map. If you are using the ecu to control boost you will no need to wire in the boost cut as it will use your alternate map settings automatically.

I do believe that your alternate map should be switched to for the failsafe. I would test it though.

drifterific

iTrader: (10)

Thank you for the info. I will test it out and try to get it wired in sometime this week and I will update this post with my findings.