Sorry if it's the wrong section....With an aquamist setup that has the failsafe (not sure which version I have) is there a way to "prime" the pump so I'm basically not "boosting dry?" Like if say I changed the line. I did some searching and looks like theres a jumper you can unplug and it turns the pump on? I couldn't find anymore info on this, I know some systems slowly build up the pressure before the actual set point to purge any air but I dont think aquamist does.....Either way how can I get the pump kicked on easily? I couldnt even find anymore info about the jumper plug on how I would go about doing it that way
Thanks

 

depending on your system hfs-1, 3, 5, 6.......there is a jumper inside the control box. On my setup (hfs-6) you move the jumper from prk (park) to tst (test) this will force it to inject at 100% duty cycle so pull the jet out first or at least do it with the car off and let it sit for a while. Also you could just lower the injection threshold all the way so it starts injecting much sooner than normal, then put it back once its primed.

 

Do as mentioned above with the jumper links and make sure to disconnect your jets and use 100% water to prime with.

 

Why only use water? and why should I disconnect the jet? I was going to take the jet out of the UIP and point it up in the air and make it pump so I can see it's spraying like it should and got all the air out.

I only replaced a very small piece of line but was also curious how the spray looked. I assume I should use water so I can prime it for a while and not waste meth but in my case I only had a foot of line off so I dont mind spraying meth for a couple seconds. I'm running 100% meth so rather keep it 100% also if I can avoid diluting it

 

if you're confident you don't have any major leaks, priming on meth is fine. On a new installation that hasn't been tested/used, priming on water is a safer option in case of large leaks. If you don't disconnect the jet, it will just take a bit longer to purge than an open ended line. But it's a good idea to check the spray pattern, so if you do pull the jet, I'd put it back on and test again to check pattern. Check into a container of course.

 

100% meth is flammable so just be careful

 

Using water is to not waste methanol or expose your self to its fumes, etc. Not to kention if it gets on your paint it will make it run. I thought that you were priming a new system lol. When I referred to disconnecting the jets I meant from the uicp not from the line itself. You guys got it lol. If there is still a good bit in the line. I would be to not worried about it. Just go driving and make it kick a few times but don't make an extended pull till its showing full flow.

 

yup use the tst jumper or the mps jumper. Keep it simple and do it while the car is idling, when you see the flow gauge kick on you know there's fluid going through it. Prime a little extra though, to get rid of any air bubbles.

 

Finally got around to doing this and found out mine is the "DS3" I believe, I was looking for a big brain kinda thing and I noticed a little box for mine up under my dash and didnt think it was the actual brain for mine but after finding nothing else I noticed the rubber band around it was to keep the flap closed that gave access to all the wiring and jumpers inside. Jumped the test pins and it primed right away and also noticed I got a meth leak at where the bigger line goes into the flowmeter inlet and someone had tried putting a sealer in with the line but apparently that didnt work, not worth the risk IMO. Glad I did it and found the leak though

 

GLAD you found the leak.