BlueX702

Wish I could help, but I had to give up on trying to install my AMS downpipe. When I had my cams put in I had Trevor also do my down pipe. The other stuff is pretty easy. Hit up Trevtec!

DJJimGreen

iTrader: (14)

That's pretty catchy.. is there anything else around town by that name? I don't think so...

2manyAWDs

iTrader: (2)

Ok...evo techs chime in!

During the trans/t-case overhaul, I decided to get my "used" fp black inspected/overhauled (as necessary). Purchased it used locally, and while it performs beyond my expectations, I noticed within the first few drives on it that it had the same characteristic as my red (which grenaded back in feb). I noticed that it poofs oil smoke after high power lift-throttle (until everything is at RACE temp - - not typical full warm street temp). In the interim, I purchased a new green from FP and didn't have the smoke issue, was not satisfied with it's performance, then purchased this black.

So, I sent in this black with a detailed description of the oil poofing. During the overhaul process, it was noted that this black was built in July 2011 and the tech explained over the phone that it was in near perfect condition with only some very minor FOD damage on the comp wheel and the wastegate actuator needed minor adjustment. The bearings and thrust plate were described as "like new", and were not replaced. During my discussion with the tech, after describing (again) the oil smoke issue, he recommend I reroute my crank vent system back to the intake to help relieve oil pressure potentially built up in the turbo by creating a vacuum in the crank vent system. This was done....system now vents from valve cover to a low mounted catch can, to a high mounted swirl pot, back to the suction pipe (pre-compressor).

All in, I paid the same amount as if they had replaced the bearings and thrust plate (I think), but I still have the same issue.

I drove the car to pahrump on Saturday, and had a friend do an hour and a half break-in miles on track while I watched. During the drive to pahrump, at EVERY high power upshift - - smoke. When he drove it at 80% for the first 30 minutes - - smoke. Out on his 2nd session giving it 90%, first 2 laps - - smoke. Last many laps - - no smoke. Same thing on the 3rd session.

Drove the car at autocross this past weekend - - smoke (see vid of go-pro on trunk)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agx6i...i85l5Kxj2BG0oa

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the most pronounced 3 things that create oil smoke are:
1) Blown head gasket (fluid intermixing and much more bad things happen)
2) Cracked compression ring (would run like **** and smoke all the time)
3) Leaky valve stem seals (would smoke at start, maybe get better as engine warms up)

To me, either the bearings and thrust plate need to be replaced, or there is something way worse going on internal in the engine.

Your thoughts?

Thanks
(sorry for a long read)

Alan Szabo Jr

iTrader: (3)

I've heard a slightly leaky valve can still do what your talking about. Just after a full throttle pull once the pressure is off it leaks just a bit to cause a little smoke puff. But im no engine mechanic so I wouldnt put that as whats wrong.

BlueX702

I would say head gasket. Do you have Arp head studs?

2manyAWDs

iTrader: (2)

AMS 2.3 lower end build....stock head, fp4r cams and better springs. I'm sure there's better head bolts involved.

If it were a head gasket issue, why would it be absolutely fine after driving on track for a couple laps @ 100%? It is perfect then, and stays perfect until the session is over! Oil temp and water temp stabilize at around 110c / 120c and there's no interchange of fluid going on between coolant and oil.

2manyAWDs

iTrader: (2)

In this situation, are starts smoky? Mine is perfect at start, perfect at driving with moderate boost. Just poofing from WOT (7000rpm ish) @ lift throttle.

Also, when I had the green on it (at 30psi) no poofing.

BlueX702

Maybe when it's heated up it expands, dunno.

Different topic, what are Nevadas laws about harnesses? Can you have harnesses only or do you have to have oem seat belts as well?

civicej8

iTrader: (8)

im no expert but, if you pull the exhaust manifold and you see oil in the ports then you know its either the seals or valve.

i think its a crancase issue tho. maybe you need to open up the ports on your valve cover to relieve some pressure.

EvoFredo

iTrader: (21)

these guys have had similar problems: didnt read the whole thread but it seems to be related to the crankcase ventilation. IE pcv valve being clogged. are you still using stock pcv? ?

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...aust-help.html

2manyAWDs

iTrader: (2)

I'll check the pcv....

But...and maybe I'll take a picture of it when I get home....the vent system I described above should make for a VERY negative pressure setup. Valve cover - greddy oil catch can - firewall mounted swirl pot - back to intake suction pipe. All hoses have large inside diameters.

Why still then, is there such a big difference between normal temp and "race" temp?

Keep the suggestions coming in! I appreciate it.

2manyAWDs

iTrader: (2)

when I sent the turbo out for overhaul, the mani, ports, and turbine inlet were dry and only slightly sooty.

civicej8

iTrader: (8)

maybe since you have it hooked to the intake, the vaccum is actually sucking oil out and going through your motor.

after that its leakdown test. but you really have minimal oil burning, intake valve seals?? hope you figure it out man,

c_reber

iTrader: (13)

Aaron, wish I knew more about this topic, but can't be of much help-sorry. But I certainly noticed the smoke at the Auto-x on sunday. Exactly like you described- a little "poof" mostly on deceleration.

Anyway, I got some decent pics of you and Rob (and a few others), and I can email you some full res if you want to see them (*I'm no professional LOL).

When I get them downloaded, I'll post a few on here.

c_reber

iTrader: (13)

Hope these pics work::: (LVR SCCA Auto X 02/12/12)